heater core hose coupler

mc4457 · Post by **mc4457** » 30 Jan 2012, 15:30

Has anyone replaced the heater hose coupler on the firewall? I broke mine when I pulled the hoses out to pull the engine. I ordered one online from fcp. Does it mount from inside under the dash? Thanks

Post by **rspi** » 30 Jan 2012, 19:17

You have to pull the T15's from out side the firewall. Then it pulls inside.

mc4457 · Post by **mc4457** » 31 Jan 2012, 12:46

are there 2 T15s? I only see 1. When you pull it from inside is it way up under the dash or pretty easy to get to?

Post by **bigdaddylee82** » 31 Jan 2012, 19:50

I replaced mine, and I'll never do it again. If the need should ever arise again I'll simply use heater hose from the engine to the heater core, and rubber grommets in the firewall. I took pics of mine when I did it to write a DIY, but deiced I'd save everyone the frustration whenever possible, and just tell them to use heater hose and ditch the firewall coupler.

I managed to remove the cabin side of the coupler without removing the gas peddle, only the cable. I didn't think I could put the new cabin side back in without braking it. The flange on one side has to go between the firewall and evaporator housing, un-possible, so I put it in the vice and trimmed that side of the flange off with a hack saw.

- Lee

Post by **bigdaddylee82** » 31 Jan 2012, 19:54

Here's a pic of how I modified the in-cabin side of the coupler, if your still determined to replace it, trimming it down will save you a lot of head ache.

- Lee

Post by **Thunderbox** » 01 Feb 2012, 20:37

I just went through this last weekend. While replacing the heater core I was prepared to eliminate the coupler based on the price and potential for leaking later on. Well to get the coupler out I had to break the spinning nozzles off. I cleared the insides and ran heater hose from cutoff pipes at the core through the hollowed out coupler to the metal connectors that went to the coupler on the firewall. I used 5/8" hose and clamps. Other than having to measure carefully it was easy and I am very happy with the results and the savings in dollars. If you do this pay attention to which hoses go where by marking them before you pull them.

Post by **erikv11** » 01 Feb 2012, 21:51

I did exactly what Thunderbox describes, and highly recommend it. The coupler is a pain and not worth the hassle.

Post by **precopster** » 02 Feb 2012, 06:18

Most odd. I've done three of them now without even so much as a curse.

When you slide it back toward the firewall turn it sideways and it will just slip straight through the rubber backing. The first time I coated the rubber backing with petroleum jelly to help it slip past.

To my advantage the cars have been RHD so no pedals to deal with.

Post by **erikv11** » 02 Feb 2012, 07:30

No one said replacement is the issue, it is the coupler itself that isn't worth it. Think of it this way: you have done three of them - that's three couplers that broke or leaked!!!

Once eliminated, which is a very easy procedure, the coupler will never leak or break again. You will be doing it zero more times, guaranteed. Elimination is also cheaper than replacement as already pointed out, and only uses parts you can walk in and pick up at any auto parts store.

Post by **precopster** » 02 Feb 2012, 14:25

In my case one of them was broken; the other two were done on two different cars as a precaution after heater core change. I was referring more to the fact that some people have to cut them to get them in.

Not worried about $45 extra when it retains the factory appearance and I don't have to fill the firewall with chemicals and then worry that the hoses will chafe due to vibration and create a far worse problem than a $45 expense. Then comes the question of heater hose replacement down the track; sounds backbreaking to remove kickplates/glovebox then crawl in under the dash to replace a hose that a quick-couple with a new coupler would have allowed in 5 minutes. Besides I HATE spilling coolant in the cabin.

Yes I know I'm a bit conservative but that hole in the firewall is HUGE. A perfectly sized grommet would be a better idea and help retain the car's factory appearance.