2003 V40 Stabilizer Bar Bushing Popped Out

[zulu-v40]

After driving on some dirt road last week, a very loud clunk developed on the front left side of the car. I jacked the car up, took the front left wheel off, and discovered that the "Stabilizer Bar Bushing," part number 30620989, had popped out.

From what I can tell, there is no damage to the top bushing, or the nut and bolt that hold the two bushings in place. I tried at length to reinsert the bottom bushing, but cannot get enough space. By 'get enough space,' I mean I jacked up the control arm, and also tried jacking up the stabilizer arm, in an effort to push the stabilizer bar up against the top bushing.

After trying that tactic yesterday, I'm thinking I might have to unscrew the bracket and top bushing. The problem is that there is basically zero clearance. I've got extensions, wobbles, and universal adapters, so it's possible I could make it happen. I guess I'm wondering if anyone else has run into this type of repair? Tips? Advice?

I've attached a video for reference. The top bushing is clearest towards the very end of the video.

[fazool]

This is probably the most detailed and well-documented problem statement I've recently read on MVS. You know its disappointing when folks post questions here that totally lack details (and yet they hope for helpful answers). I think your post should be the model that we judge all posts against. Before answering a post we should ask "does it meet the Zulu40 litmus test for detailed info?"

So, looking over your diagrams and video, a couple thoughts:

1) if you force/tap/press/coerce the bushing back into position it will get scraped and damaged and probably not seat properly. The bracketry is designed to prevent reduce sliding so its not designed to be pushed back into place. You are going to have to remove the bolt and the bracket. Even if you *CAN* get it back in place it wont be good enough to stay.

And that does look like the tightest squeeze ever. I cant imagine how any tool will fit there.

Is it possible that a whole bunch of suspension parts have to be removed first?

Also, if you are able to get in there somehow, use 12-point sockets not 6-point. This will need half the ratcheting space if you need to move the socket manually.

Well, if it was me, I would jack the car up really high because crawling around under there, you are going to nbeed lots of contortionist space.

I would use a stubby 12-point box end wrench.

I can't see from the attachments - what exactly does this bracket bolt on to? Is it a cross-member or something ? Is it a removable part?

[zulu-v40]

You've definitely got a point there. If there were no bracket and accompanying bolt it might be a different story, but it is becoming more and more clear that the bracket must be removed first. It might require the stabilizer bar to be detached from the end link shown at 0:53, but I'm not sure that will make much difference. I do think the bracket is the key, but to answer your question, it is not clear what the bracket bolts into. There's some pretty substantial metal above the control arm, which might be part of the chassis. I'm not really sure. I do like the idea of a 12 point socket versus a 6 point one. I've referenced VADIS, which provided no instruction whatsoever.

As for the level of detail included in the original post, I'd gladly lend my user name to such a litmus test. If only all problem statements had part numbers, diagrams, videos, and well written sentences broken up into paragraphs! Of course, I'd add that it's not every day one finds the problem part carefully resting on the chassis in plain view, never mind the in tact part number imprinted on the rubber of said problem part.

[zulu-v40]

Well, today I tried to gain access to the bolt on the bracket for about an hour without success. It's at such an angle that there's no way to get a socket or wrench situated. I tried from the top of the engine bay and from the wheel well. I'm at a loss here. It seems like some of the suspension needs to be removed, but that's beyond my scope of knowledge.

[zulu-v40]

My mechanic quoted me $432.51 to replace the bushings on both sides. That seems fair to me. What do other people think? The labor is so extensive to get at the bolt that it would be silly not to replace the other sway bar bushings too. If it were just a squeak, I'd learn to live with it too, but I've got a lot of loud clanking going on.

[zulu-v40]

Got the V40 back from the mechanic today. They had to lower the suspension on both sides and use multiple jacks to get the job done. They said next time they would probably lower the subframe, not to mention charge more for the job.