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'92 940 Turbo Clunking Noise Investigation and Misc Question

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Budo
Posts: 3
Joined: 10 May 2012
Year and Model: 1992 940
Location: Houston

'92 940 Turbo Clunking Noise Investigation and Misc Question

Post by Budo »

Hi there Volvo people,

My name is Burke and this is my first Volvo. I bought it in Houston, TX with 120k miles on it. I've tried going through the search option as much as possible but I still have a lot o questions left unanswered. I hope you guys don't mind me bugging you so much :D .

While the vehicle is in rather good shape for its age, I have noticed some pretty loud clunking noises coming from the front end as well as some not as loud clunks/rattles from the rear. This is accompanied by a steering wheel shake that isn't very severe but noticeable (very slight up to 35 mph and moderate around 65 - 70). When I roll over bumps at very low speeds (almost a crawl) it doesn't produce any clunking sounds but if I try to drive over uneven pavement at more than say 15 mph the noises appear. I've checked several posts and a site with an FAQ, and think that it may be the "lower ball joints" or "control arm bushing"? Am I correct in this pseudo-diagnosis? If it's either, how do I check which one of it needs replacing?

As for the miscellaneous questions... I have an automatic model and noticed that while driving normally the upshifts seem a little abrupt. Kind of like if you were driving a manual car, shifted into second, and popped the clutch a little early. Downshifts are perfectly smooth though. While the upshifting is abrupt it is not accompanied with any loud clunk noise. Is this normal-ish? I have never owned an automatic car, not to mention an automatic 20 year old tank :P. The a/c is suuuuper cold but sometimes when I turn the a/c off and turn off the car I can hear a slight hissing sound remain for about 10-15 seconds after the car is off. Like I pissed off a snake in the air vents or something... Normal?

I think that's all the curiosities I have for the moment. Thanks for reading and I hope I get some help :)

Budo
Posts: 3
Joined: 10 May 2012
Year and Model: 1992 940
Location: Houston

Post by Budo »

Bump... Nobody with helpful info out there?

jimmy57
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Joined: 12 November 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
Location: Ponder Texas
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Post by jimmy57 »

Bushing check: with car parked and parking brake set securely, have someone try to roll each front tire fore aft by pushing fore-aft on the top of the tire while you feel where the rear horizontal link intersects the lower control arm out to wheel. There is a bushing where that link rod intersects the control arm.
DO the same feel test while the wheel is moved fore-aft but at the rear location where the angled link meets the frame of car.
Motion is OK but you should not feel a clunk when assistant moves wheel.
The throttle cable to transmission may be not be adjusted properly. A cable from throttle spool up on intake manifold runs down to the trans. It is the lower inboard cable and you can follow it to see it goes around behind engine and down to transmission. IF you pull that cable out and let i go you should hear it pop back and make a pop noise down in transmission. IF it is too tight it will shift late and harsh. The cable should not bind so if you pull it out a bit and let go and it is sluggish to pull baCK INTO CABLE HOUSING THEN YOU HAVE A RUSTY CABLE and will need to replace it. If it moves nicely but no pop, then loosen the 14 mm (maybe 12mm) nuts that secure cable to bracket and decrease the number of showing threads towards end of cable housing as this adds slack to the cable and then secure the nuts and go drive to see if the shift is better.

A/C hiss on shutdown is normal. Refrigerant pressure is imbalanced when operating and when you stop the refrigerant backflows to go to equal pressures.

Steering wheel shakes can be a few things but the first to check are bent wheels or a tire with a defect. 35 MPH is too slow for wheel balance to make a shake. IF you lift each of the front tires off the ground and then lay on ground and look at the inboard sidewall and wheel edge you may find a bent wheel. Inboard edge of wheel is the easiest to bend when a bad hole is struck.

Budo
Posts: 3
Joined: 10 May 2012
Year and Model: 1992 940
Location: Houston

Post by Budo »

Thanks a bunch for the ideas Jimmy.

I just returned from a long business/training trip in France and have only been able to rule out the bushing issue so far. Took the car to a muffler shop to get the exhaust fixed and while the car was on the lift he let me poke around and even helped me out a little. Looks like my shocks/struts are almost pretty much shot. The front left still has some life, but the front right and two rears are done for. Sure enough, while driving home I looked for road imperfections and tried to test each side of the car. Driver side doesn't make a noise when initially hitting a bump, but when it reaches the rear tire it gets some clunks. The passenger side sounds like a bag of rocks being shaken up :P.

Steering wheel shake could simply be the fact that the front passenger tire has a pretty uneven wear due to struts not working (I assume the front susp are strut assemblies?).

The throttle cable to transmission will be checked out next when I get the time.

Next question if you don't mind me asking...

*If I plan on overhauling the basic suspension system at somewhat of a budget, what should I replace?
- Struts (front pair)
- Shocks (rear pair)
- Anything else?

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