Time for a timing belt, 2006 S80, 75,000 mi

Post by **tridents65** » 21 Sep 2012, 13:52

On my way to the garage. My 2006 S80 is due for the timming belt (75,000 mi.) I have done this one other time with the other parts, (water pump, tensioner, etc.) on my daughters 1995 850. Her was a non turbo while mine is a turbo. Just wondering if there is much of a difference in the job at hand. Anything I should watch out for that was not like the '95 other than the turbo?

Post by **JDS60R** » 21 Sep 2012, 14:01

Tensioner will be different and requires to be set again after engine is rotated forward to pull intake side of cam belt tight.

Other than that -very similar to your 95.

If it has VVT , then rotate engine 90 degrees forward and then back before removing belt so that timing marks are accurate.

Lots of instructions in other posts here. Read them through and it will point out the right steps. I see lots of them set wrong due to missing the VVT or proper tensioner setting issues above.

Post by **chrism** » 21 Sep 2012, 16:27

I've done both our 03 V70 2.4 NA and 05 S80 2.5T. Both were the same with the newer spring-loaded tensioner. When I did the S80, I left the damper pulley in place and just removed the plastic strap thingy that runs underneath it. It is a little tricky getting the old belt out and new belt in but it saved time over R&R'g the damper.

Post by **tridents65** » 21 Sep 2012, 19:36

I've tore down as much as I care to for tonight. I'm ready at this point to remove the belt. The timing marks are lined up and verified with the mark on the crankshft sprocket (did it twice). I used my IPD tool to lock the camshft sprockets. Got all four of the pins to fit. On the '95 I was only able to get three of them lined up. Thanks for the responces. I'll spend some time tonight reviewing older post. Here is what I know so far: The removal of the timing belt from around the crankshft pully is going to be a pain. I too looked at removing the belt guard but could not see how to get it off. I only found a couple of bolts and think there is more than that holding it on. My Haynes manual says to take the crankshaft pully off "using your home-made pulley holding tool". Really? That will slow me down. I don't know if I have a VVT or not. Still trying to figure out what it looks like. I'm thinking though that I do not have it or I would find something somewhere that would indicate that. The fact that I have it or not only matters if I'm changing the seals doesn't it? I have no leaks and at only 75,000 miles I'm willing to take a chance that they will last to 150,000 anyway. Not will to chance it though on the water pump. Changing that with the tensioner and the pulley. Tomorrows another day; hoping to be done around 2:00 if lucky.

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 21 Sep 2012, 20:05

All the S80's have VVT. You need to go beyond the marks as described, then back or you will have to reset the VVT units manually. I say units because I think the '06 has both inatake and exhaust VVT.

The locking tool isnt really much help. if it gives you piece of mind then fair enough but keep in mind the VVT allows the camshafts to move with respect of the pulleys so you can lock the pulleys all you like, they actual timing can still be off becase the cams can move. With my '99 getting the belt off was handy enough, maybe its worse with the 06 but once I had the serpentine pulley off it wasnt bad at all.

If you plan changing the seals you will really want to find or make a cam locking tool. The tool I'm referring to is not applied at the pulley end, it locks the camshafts at the back of the motor so that you can remove and or torque the retaining bolts for the pulleys. The pulleys are not keyed.

Post by **tridents65** » 21 Sep 2012, 20:33

Can't stand it. Going back to the garage and turn the wrench some more. Going to reset the timing marks the correct way this time. Not sure though if the VVT allows the cam gears to still turn how do I hold them in place? Just be careful? I'm not changing the seals so won't be using the locking tool at the other end of the cams.

mrjacobrussell · Post by **mrjacobrussell** » 21 Sep 2012, 20:48

you need to get the locking tool or your pretty much guaranteed to destroy your valves.. That is how i got my 2001 xc for $900 bucks.

Previous owner did a water pump and put the belt on wrong it hammered every single valve.

Not very expensive of a fix but very time consuming. I would suggest purchasing the tool form ebay.

Post by **tridents65** » 21 Sep 2012, 21:34

ok, I'm happynow. Went out and started to make the "home-made tool. Had it done 'cept for one hole for one of the crankshft pulley bolts to go through. I then needed to take one out of the pulley. Could not get enough leverage to get the bolt loose. So, I figured I would go ahead and try to see if the belt cover would come off (the one I could only see two bolts). Well, I took them off and the cover was easyly removed! No other obstructions that I can see to putting the new timing belt on. Go figure, why would the Haynes book say the pulley "must" come off? We will see what tomorrow brings.

mrjacobrussell · Post by **mrjacobrussell** » 22 Sep 2012, 00:09

tridents65 wrote:ok, I'm happynow. Went out and started to make the "home-made tool. Had it done 'cept for one hole for one of the crankshft pulley bolts to go through. I then needed to take one out of the pulley. Could not get enough leverage to get the bolt loose. So, I figured I would go ahead and try to see if the belt cover would come off (the one I could only see two bolts). Well, I took them off and the cover was easyly removed! No other obstructions that I can see to putting the new timing belt on. Go figure, why would the Haynes book say the pulley "must" come off? We will see what tomorrow brings.

The pulley must be removed for the seal only.

Post by **tridents65** » 22 Sep 2012, 13:10

Finished up by noon today. All went well thanks the great information on this site. I know doing something the 2nd time seems easyer but, I think the S80 had just a little more working room than the 850 did. The only thing I can add that might help someone and that I have not read is that I was having trouble holding the right side of the timing belt on tight while I was threading the rest on. I used a small vice grip with some old inner tube between the jaws and the belt. Lightly clamped the belt onto the right side (intake?) gear to hold it in place. Gave me a seconed set of hands. Thanks everuone for your help/input!