Attempting Timing Belt

rhlee222 · Post by **rhlee222** » 05 Oct 2012, 21:27

Hi Everyone,
I own a 2001 S80 2.9 with 147,000 miles. Tomorrow I'm going to replace the timing belt, idler, tensioner, and water pump. If all goes well, and I don't discover leaking cam seals, do i have to worry about adjusting VVT? I've read much about this and am a little confused. Vadis only says to align the marks, go 1/4 turn more, then counter clockwise to align the marks again. Also, does anyone know the torque settings for the water pump?
Thanks much,
Rick

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 06 Oct 2012, 19:35

theres been a few topic on this lately have a look... Basically turn the motor past the marks about 90(crank) degrees, then rotate it back to the marks that should relieve the vvt. The marks are not TDC, so do not use TDC as a reference.
If you take the cam sprockets off then it gets a lot more fun. You will need to lock the cams the at back of the motor for a start. The cams and sprocket are not keyed so getting everything lined up can be, err, fun.

mbreed · Post by **mbreed** » 11 Oct 2012, 15:33

It's been a while. So I may be wrong. But the purpose of turning the cam past the marks and then back is to center the position of the camshaft in the middle of the travel of the CVT cam gear. So what ever method you use, just get it as centered as you can.
If your wrong you will get a check engine light then you can try again. You wont ruin your motor unless your timing marks are off. Water pump torque: 17 Nm (12 lb.ft).

theloit · Post by **theloit** » 11 Oct 2012, 20:09

I just did my timing belt last weekend 1999 s80 2.9L non turbo. No problems. I did have to take the crank pulley balancer (four smaller bolts) off even to get the accessory belt off. Taking the crank pulley off was not an issue with air tools. The whole thing was actually pretty easy. Just take your time. I did line up the marks on the cams and the crank and did that two times (turning the engine via the crank bolt). I had a better view of the crank mark after the pulley was off but of course timing belt still on. I did the lineup then 1/4 turn past then counter clockwise back to the timing marks. Once lined up I took extra caution and counted the teeth on the belt between the cam marks (19 on mine). Took the tensioner (hydraulic on mine) off then carefully the belt. Next, idler pulley off, then the tensioner pulley. My idler pulley was frozen would not even turn and the reason I did the timing belt was mileage (190K) and a squealing from the timing belt area. I suspect that noise was the idler pulley. I really made sure I did not bump those cams taking off the pulleys etc.. I worked from below as much as I could (thru the wheel well) just to ensure the cams did not get inadvertently nudged. I put everything back on and then carefully the belt. Counted the teeth between the cams (19), tensioned the belt (hydraulic tensioner is just pulling the pin). Yours is more than likely mechanical tensioner (just know that from reading this site). Once tensioned, I checked the marks and counted the teeth again (19). Probably did not have to do the counting thing but it was a big confidence builder when all that matches (marks and teeth) when the new belt is on. Turn engine over twice and make sure the marks line up back where you started. Started the car and everything was fine. I'm just a weekend DIY and by no means an expert. I consume a lot from these type of forums so thought I’d give back a bit by writing about my experience. Hope this helps. If I've written anything in error, someone please chime in and correct me. Good luck.