2001 v70xc engine removal
2001 v70xc engine removal
hey guys, i am new to the site and i have just recently purchased a 2001 volvo v70xc with a 2.4l, had the timing belt break on me. i have determined that i have bent the valves. i purchased a used engine out of a salvage yard and i have begun removing the engine out of my car(new engine is sitting in my shop), ive got all wires,hoses and vaccum lines removed and marked, bolts going through the flex plate into the torque converter are removed. however... i see that there is an angle gear bolted to the transmission. now my question is can i remove the gear with minimal ease? do i need to drain any oil from the gear or tranny? and my biggest concern is, is it possible to remove the engine while leaving the trans in place? i know its recomended to pull both but is it possible to cheat and just pull the motor? any advice to lead me me in the right direction would be appreciated
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precopster
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Assuming this is an auto it should be doable just rotate the crank little by little to clear the bracket holding the crank sensor as there is a cutout in the transmission flexplate that will clear that bracket when in the right position.
Removing the harmonic balancer will get you some more room but be sure to place the 30mm nut back on the crank to avoid damaging the threads.
Accessory removal is easy on the 2001; the alternator is simple enough once the upper compressor bolts are removed and the a/c compressor can just sit there once unbolted.
Remove the bracket on the block which holds the driveshaft for even more room and release the fuel line from the quick disconnect before the sump bracket. The exhaust manifold will get in the way unless removed; not certain if there is a flange with 3 nuts on this model further down.
Can't think of anything else right now but keep us posted.
Removing the harmonic balancer will get you some more room but be sure to place the 30mm nut back on the crank to avoid damaging the threads.
Accessory removal is easy on the 2001; the alternator is simple enough once the upper compressor bolts are removed and the a/c compressor can just sit there once unbolted.
Remove the bracket on the block which holds the driveshaft for even more room and release the fuel line from the quick disconnect before the sump bracket. The exhaust manifold will get in the way unless removed; not certain if there is a flange with 3 nuts on this model further down.
Can't think of anything else right now but keep us posted.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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jimmy57
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You will have to remove the angle gear. Remove the right side axle and rear driveshaft first and then the 5 bolts holding the AG to trans. The top two bolts are toughest but are accessible with long extension and swivel socket.
Drain the trans as the fluid level with engine off for a while will go up and it will leak when AG is removed.
It will come out but it is tight. DO not let the edge of flex plate (flywheel) get bent coming out or going in. That will cause issues with the RPM sensor.
While engine is out repack that front joint on rear driveshaft. Catalytic converter bakes the grease in it.
Drain the trans as the fluid level with engine off for a while will go up and it will leak when AG is removed.
It will come out but it is tight. DO not let the edge of flex plate (flywheel) get bent coming out or going in. That will cause issues with the RPM sensor.
While engine is out repack that front joint on rear driveshaft. Catalytic converter bakes the grease in it.
i got my engine out and the new one back into the car ( new motor was out of a 2001 s60) engine runs great has 90k on it. engine came out very easily, i did remove the angle gear however i never had to drain any fluid and i was also able to leave my drive shaft hooked up. seems to me as far as replacing the engine in the instance of a timing belt failure, this is a simple engine to swap out. not a lot of electrical connectors and only some vacuum lines, thanks for the replies guys!
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