ETM issues, please help, and i suppose join the club

[deentz31415]

Let me start by saying I am a first time poster, so I apologize for any misformated information. I have been an avid Volvo Owner since i started driving, had an old 81 yellow 240 DL wagon as my first car, and have had 3 various models more since. I am no mechanic, but have learned by trial and error and many dirty hours, the ways of the Volvo.
I just purchased a 2000 s70 non turbo, and it has a few miles, but seemed to be in great condition, and within a week it left me stalled in the middle of an intersection and i had to be towed home after causing quite the traffic disturbance. When it would stall, ets and cel light up, very irradic rpms, I would loose power when hitting accel pedal, and then drop rpms until stalling out, acted like a bad vacuum leak or no gas . Sometimes would start right up and hunt for idle, sometimes perfect, sometimes not for hours. Did get a constant Cel for a few days , pulled code as lean O2 sensor. Had no issues while it was on. Until it died. was doing about 40 on level road, suddenly gasped and lost power, tried to enter limp mode i think but stalled... 45 min in middle of intersection and lots of happy ppl. Tried everything to start, reset batt. knocked on throttle body, wiggled wires and checked for leaks. I did start once and ran , but as soon as i put hood down and tried to drive it died, got 5 feet.
After being towed it started immediately and I was able to drive into parking spot, then didn't start again except for brief (1-3 second) running with immediate stall. Did some research and found this and several other sites explaining how ETM is made from dinosaur poo and since mine was a white sticker version and car is at ~186000 if it wasnt dead now it would die soon. I did try to clean it but when i took it off it was obvious that it had been cleaned before , by the previous owner, who did tell me it needed a new throttle body but didn't know what it was called.
So i found one used from a 2000 c70, yellow tag, from 08 , and looked clean, came from a car that was rearended and was told engine was same 2.4 N/a, and price was right so I bought before looking into c70 and realized they are all Turbo?. When it got here i figured i would give it a shot , but don't have a way to take to Dealer for programing without money i dont have. SO , I replaced old with new, and went smoothly. ) cut old wiring harness where it went behind starter bracket, but rerouted new one in similar, less restricted route. When i tried to start, it still cranks but would not turn over at all, tried for the day, then had it towed to a local shop that said they might be able to flash programing and get running. Sat for 2 weeks with Thanksgiving break, and then They called said it was out of gas and after adding it was running great. So in a state of confusion and humiliation for making such a simple error, i walked to shop and paid for gas and diagnostic charge. Car started right up to my amazement. Ran for 20 min at lot, perfectly, revved motor quickly and sustained, so i drove off.. went to gas station, put in gas. Restarted fine, drove home let run for 20 min, perfect. went for test drive and got 1.5 miles before failure. 2 hours of stalling and fighting got back to house, and wouldn't start again. so I had it towed back to shop immediately for free.
So Now I am lost.. i thought the no start after replacing ETM was due to software issue, but then it ran well for an hour without programming, so i assume it is compatible after all?. And i dont understand why it is still having issues. I dont have the money for the shop to do repairs without results. It acts like it is getting no fuel, although i think i hear the pump engaging. I tried disconnecting Maf to see if that helped, no change. The Flame trap was cleaned withing 15K miles and all of the scheduled maintenance seems to have been done( tons of records with sale) Could the fuel pump relay do this?
or the interlock ring on steering column? Any other thoughts? Thank you for any help.

[precopster]

Ok so you have a Denso system being NA. The ETM part number is the same as the C70 turbo. Only the S60/V70 NA from '01/'02 has a different number.
If the car started with another ETM this is not uncommon and I don't believe this is your problem. I placed an S80T6 unit in my '99 V70 with no need for reprogramming.

To be able to tell if the ETM is operational turn on ignition and listen for the characteristic sound of the ETM. If the engine isn't started it will click again and turn off. If the noise is not familiar to you remove the air hose from the air cleaner and turn on the ignition. Depending on the software version you have either 6 or 12 secs to test the throttle flap. Have another person turn on the ignition and quickly press the throttle flap before it powers down. Does it operate and move in unison with the accelerator pedal?

Recently I started rebuilding ETMs for the local public and I've completed 8 of them so far. You can do the same thing with your original ETM if it still powers up.

The important thing to do is get some codes read (if there are any) from the current ETM but this will be pointless if it doesn't power up.

Even an inexpensive Autel MS509 scanner will read most of the ETM codes.
If you still have your old ETM simply plug it back into the loom and see if it powers up as above. It may only need a new contactless sensor. If you want to buy a contactless sensor or simply two new contacting films. Don't just rush out and try to fit one. Too many people have failed by rushing.

Post your findings back here and we'll try to assist.

[deentz31415]

Ok, thank you for trying to help, here is where I'm at. The old etm would power on(make high pitch freqency) then click and stop noise, but if I keep they key in same position, it would randomly recycle back to start mode and self test again. I thought this was the sound of an error , but it seems to be normal as new one also does it. he new etm also makes test noise , clicks and then is quite no matter how long you wait. I had the shop check fuel pressure and was good, so they did not jump relay yet(think its fine). Car started for them this morning, but would not this afternoon. No hard codes, but says the injectors are not engaging and no spark, so just turns over but won't catch. I don't know if this can be a result of not reprogramming new etm?, though Idont think so since it intermittently works perfectly. I don't know what else would have control of the injectors/plugs. I don't think they are physically damaged/bad since they do work as they should sometimes, and Don't think computer is bad for same reason. Could immobilizer ring do this if faulty? Or is there a controller specifically for this function..Iwant to love this car but it making it difficult. Thanks for any suggestios.

[precopster]

Engine management relay or engine earth strap near oil pressure switch. Blue relay under hood in fuse area is the engine management relay.
The ETM & your injectors are not getting consistent power.

ETMs should not randomly click and self test. Look at this ad it has some self help instructions:
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/viewi ... 7267410430
A simple test is to connect power with small alligator clips to green & brown leads of ETM connector (green is positive 12V) and see if the initialisation problem persists (almost certain it won't)

If it initialises once only this proves the problem is from your car.

[deentz31415]

Thank you for your help, after long battle I think its fixed . The shop called today and gave up, couldn't explain intermittent power failures. Things would spontaneously work and cease working without explanation. Managed to nurse car home, and started hunting. Checked the earth ground, was dirty but good. Pulled the engine management relay, took it apart, but was in good shape, cleaned a small amount of oxidation. Didn't help. Car would run perfect, then not at all, and everything in between. Started disconnecting things one by one to see if they had any affect. Nothing seemed to have any direct effect, except when I disconnected maf it would start and run well most times, but reconnecting did not make it run poorly. So I started tracing wires and found that when I moved wiring harness that runs above radiator it would cut car off. So after some careful isolation, I narrowed down to harness connection at front right of hood under air scoop running to front of car. Turns out it was connected but at an angle so was causing all of the intermittent power issues, as the car shook and vibrated. It must have been just wrong to work sometimes and not others, but ran all day no problems, with new throttle body and.no programing. The only odd thing is the TB never stopped making the high pitch noise, it will stay on for 5 min if you don't start car, but actuates as soon as the key is turned to that position then beeps. Any clues?, thank again

[precopster]

Haven't ever heard an ETM beep, however if it doesn't go into a sleep state when the ignition is on and the engine isn't running this is purely programming. The dealer can help if you feel this is required.

I repaired an '01 V70 XC ETM a couple of weeks ago and when hooked into my own loom on my 2000 V70 it would stay on all day with ignition on, however as soon as it was reinstalled in the XC it would switch off in 6 secs. It's a marriage between ECM and ETM to determine how it behaves.

On the '99 V70 na I installed one from a S80T6 and it turns off perfectly; go figure.