Tips For S60 2.4T Oil Trap Replacement (In Progress)

[velorider]

Decided to take on the challenge of replacing the oil trap tonight. Started late but planned on doing everything over 2 days. Disassembly the first day and then reassembly second day. For those overwhelmed by having to remove the fuel rail and manifold I read somewhere if you can remove bolts you can replace the oil trap. There are a lot of bolts and a lot to remember to reassemble, but the statement is true. I enjoy working on the car but only been doing anything more then oil changes for the last couple years, so by no means would I consider myself an advance home mechanic.

I spent the last week reading everything I could find online about PVC/Oil Trap replacement and stitching together the how-to guide in my head. Below are some tips learned from reading different online guides and personal experience from day 1 disassembly.


Tip 0:

Take photos of the process, there are lots of bolts and hose connections. Label connectors and hoses just in case you forget.

Tip 1:

Since the fuel rail needs to be removed I would suggest getting new injector o-rings. They are simply o-ring on the injectors that seal the injector in the manifold.

Tip 2:

The manifold needs to be removed so this would be a good time to clean the throttle body. Pick up a new gasket.

Tip 3:

Thanks to the heads up I worked out how to remove the last bolt on the manifold near the thermostat before even starting. The bolt doesn't fully come out but only needs to be lossen to remove the manifold. After removing the plastic tube over the top of the engine. Use a 1/4 wobble extension and 10mm socket to reach between the the power steering pump and alternator.

Tip 4:

The second challenge I read about was the banjo bolt under manifold. Not much prep for this one but I did find that loosen the manifold makes accessing the bolt much easier. After removing all the prerequisite to remove the manifold remove all the manifold bolts expect the last bolt on the top and the one near the thermostat. I did this alone, but having a help will help. Remove the last top row bolt and hold the manifold. Now you can lift the manifold just enough to get a box wrench on the banjo bolt.

Tip 5

The lower left bolt on the oil trap requires a 1/4 socket and extension to get into the small space to reach the bolt. A 3/8 socket will not fit.


Good luck. My 2001 S60 had 125K miles on it and every things I read said to replace around 100K. Only simtums I had was about 1 quart oil consumption per 1,000 miles and a very slight idle stutter occasionally. After disassemble the ports on the breather box where maybe 30% blocked. The crazy $135 PCV hose seemed clear.

I'll post a follow up after the reassembly. The crazy $135 PCV hose broke, so I need to order one before I can continue. The pastic under the foam was brittle are cracked.

Question:

I do have one question for the fokes here at MVS. The injectors only had a single o-ring, there are recesses for two, but I only had one per injector. Can someone confirm I should have 2 o-rings per injector.

[ChaddGostas]

there is also a rubber square ring in the connector.

[ChaddGostas]

there is an o-ring on each side and one big o-ring/seal that seats it in the manifold.

[velorider]

I definitely don't have the square o-ring. I now get that the o-rings are on both sides of the injector. I thoughts both went on the manifold side. The second recess doesn't look large enough for the square o-ring in your picture. I've attached a couple pictures of my injectors. I purchased the car around 42K so unless the previous owner had injector work done I can't image where large o-ring went. Any chance S60 2.4T doesn't have the larger o-ring.

[velorider]

Some pictures of the progress as I wait for the hose to arrive.

Important Note: TheFCPEuro PVC Kit doesn't include all the necessary clamps. The clamps for the large elbow hose from the side of the oil trap to engine block aren't included but are required. So make sure you add those to the order.

Before Starting

Manifold Removed

Oil Trap Orifice After Cleaning

Throttle Body Before Cleaning

After Cleaning

[velorider]

So I'm waiting for the new PVC hose from FCP and started thinking that it's crazy that I need to purchase a $160 hose because a short white tube broke. Shouldn't I be able to replace that tube? If posible what can I use to replace it. Here are pictures of the tube I'm refer to.

[ChaddGostas]

my square o ring is between the electrical plug and the injector. nice throttle cleanup

[ChaddGostas]

if that short white tube is clear, and in pretty good shape, why don't you patch it using a rubber sleeve? or a rubber elbow? worst case scenario, the elbow rots or the tube shatters due to age. if I don't work sat. I will see if I can find one at my junkyard. Pm. me

[velorider]

Extremely disappointed with FCPEuro. The broken PVC hose and the required clamps not included in the PVC kit arrived today. First the PVC kit doesn't include the required clamps to install the kit, clamps #3 and #10 aren't included. Since I was ordering the PVC hose I added the missing clamps. I called the sales rep to ensure I got the correct sizes. We both looks at the same diagram below and I called out the numbers I needed to complete the PVC kits and to install the PCV hose. Guess what, only 2 of the 5 where the correct size.

I'll call them tomorrow to get the order sorted and I'm sure they wont give me a hassle. I know we humans make mistakes. But I don't find any excuse for the PVC kits to not include clamps #3 and #10 and then only get 2 or 5 the correct size.

Lucky there is enough of the correct clamps to install where the clamps are inaccessible once the manifold is installed. The 2 others can be replaced later, so tonight I'll use the worm style.

[Rocky]

I chose genuine parts on this area of the car for just those reasons. Sorry to hear it wasn't as good as you hoped