This is for us dummies who need pictures to figure things out. This bushing is a severe PITA to remove if you don't use fire, a 500-ton press, or a space shuttle powered pulley system. I chose option 1.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The outer sleeves MUST BE REMOVED to install new front bushings, poly or OEM. The old sleeves can stay in for the larger rear front control arm bushings (unless you got new sleeves with the IPD kit).
Front Position Bushing
IPD
FCP
Rear Position Bushing
IPD
FCP
Step 1: Remove the control arms.
An impact and 14, 15, & 18 mm sockets and wrenches will finish that off in <15 minutes or so. I don't see the need for a walkthrough for this. 1 Endlink nut/bolt, 3 balljoint nuts, 1 front position bushing bolt/nut, 3 rear position bracket bolts. Use an impact to remove the rear position bushing bracket bolt from the control arm.
Tools needed for bushing removal:
Step 2: Fire
Use a torch to burn/melt the rubber bushings. I torched it until it was a nice, rubber-fueled bonfire. Left it burning for 5-10 minutes. I don't recommend toasting marshmallows over the toxic rubber fume-filled flames.
The inner sleeve should pop out by the time the flames die down. If it doesn't, a pair of pliers will easily remove it.
Step 3: Cut
Use a screwdriver or similar tool to blaze a trail through the rubber for your hacksaw. No need to work the sides of the blade against rubber while you cut. More friction = more work.
Use a hacksaw to cut a groove in the bushing outer shell. I used a Nicholson 32 tooth "Bi-Metaloy" blade - sounds fancy but I'm sure any metal cutting blade would work. Note that the blade will bend a little as you cut, regardless of how hard you tension it down. This makes the cuts on the outer edges deeper than the middle. No worries - just make sure you don't cut into the metal cylinder (will call it the "bushing housing) welded to the control arm.
Use a hammer and chisel to "complete" the groove where your hacksaw couldn't reach.
Step 4: Pry/Chisel/Etc
Flip to the other side of the bushing hole. Use a hammer and chisel or screwdriver to pull a portion of the sleeve away from the control arm bushing housing.
NOTE: You may need to do this on the other side as well, hammering the lip inward to "loosen things up" a bit more.
Step 5: Press
I used a balljoint press to press out the metal sleeve. The socket you see on the left side is a 22mm impact.
It might take more than one attempt with the press - you may have to do a little more hammering with a chisel/screwdriver to pull the sleeve off of the bushing housing before it presses out. Repeat Step 4 until it presses out. If necessary, go back to Step 3 and cut a little more.
There it is!
Step 6: Clean Surface
I used a few different bits on a drill (I don't have a Dremel) to clean up the surface inside and the chamfer on the outside.
Step 7: Install
And, to my surprise, the bushings pressed in using the good ole fashioned "2-Palm Squeeze". I bought SuperLube Synthetic Grease from HarborFreight - cheap and awesome. Be sure to smother the bushing and the "bushing housing" with grease.
Please note that this procedure was developed after HOURS of pressing the bushings in, and having them pop out, of the control arm while the old outer sleeves were NOT REMOVED. DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME. The bushings will go in, but the inner sleeve will never, ever, ever, go in afterward.
Another note: Don't over-impact the bracket-to-control-arm nut when reinstalling. My new control arm is on the way....
Big thanks to gsellstr, badvlvo, boosted12a, and smokeyfan1000 for answering my questions on other threads (turbobricks)
I am willing to correct any procedural or grammatical problems in this post. I haven't edited it yet, seeing as I should be working right now..
Michael
