I am the 4th owner of a non-turbo 2000 V70 with 130K miles. I purchased it one year ago and had the original fuel filter replaced by the local garage as the car was surging at highway speeds. No improvement. So I did some Googling and found this site. I called Volvo customer service and gave them the VIN and was told that the software had been reprogrammed on my car in April 2007 with previous owner, but there was no record of the actual ETM part being replaced.
Fast forward to today: took it to Volvo dealer and they stated that fault code 131318 indicates that the actual ETM part needs to be replaced and is no longer eligible for the recall warranty. The estimate at the local dealer is $1050. I called another dealer about 2 hours away and that estimate is $835. A third estimate was $700.
Please advise if there is any recourse with Volvo customer service, i.e., writing a letter,etc. or if this is hopeless and I will have to pay out of pocket to replace this defective part.
Thank you.
New ETM for 2000 V70
- Florida Volvo V70
- Posts: 10
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- Year and Model: Volvo V70
- Location: Florida
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mikealder
- Posts: 817
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- Year and Model: V70 2000
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The ETM on a 2000 N/A car is easy to remove, (screwdriver and 10MM spanner) takes about 10 minutes, I would start with cleaning the ETM out with carb cleaner spray, you need to clean both sides of the air tract through the ETM and pay attention to the area where the butterfly valve closes down and is in close contact with the inlet tract as this is where carbon builds up leading to rough idle. You don't even need to disconnect the electrical cable to the ETM to clean it, if you need to remove it to replace it then you will need to disconnect it, the plug is on the cross memebr just aft of the radiator, DO NOT try to remove the cable from the ETM as this is a hard wired joint. The cable is also trapped behind the starter motor so you will need to remove the starter motor steady bracket to release the ETM cable.
If the above doesn't fix it then get the ETM replaced as the poor design means it will fail at some point but a clean is worth a try, if the potentiameters within the ETM are failing (as they do) cleaning it won't fix the issue and it will have to be replaced but for the sake of thirty minutes to remove, clean and replace it, it is worth a try.
Look up XeMODeX for a replacement ETM as their offering is far better than the Volvo OEM or replacement part, in the UK we are lucky as the ETM can be modified with the non contact digital angle sensor inlue of the pots that wear out for a little over £100, no idea what XeMODeX are currently charging for what is the same modification - Mike
If the above doesn't fix it then get the ETM replaced as the poor design means it will fail at some point but a clean is worth a try, if the potentiameters within the ETM are failing (as they do) cleaning it won't fix the issue and it will have to be replaced but for the sake of thirty minutes to remove, clean and replace it, it is worth a try.
Look up XeMODeX for a replacement ETM as their offering is far better than the Volvo OEM or replacement part, in the UK we are lucky as the ETM can be modified with the non contact digital angle sensor inlue of the pots that wear out for a little over £100, no idea what XeMODeX are currently charging for what is the same modification - Mike
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
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- Year and Model: Lots
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The DAS pots are available for delivery worldwide on eBay but I wouldn't tackle this job unless this is a spare ETM or unless you have experience with repair of electronic devices; it can be stuffed up.
Yehuda started up this thread a while back but it's hard to see exactly how it's done until you get to page 2:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 98#p259158
The step I forgot to mention is that you should match voltage b/w pins 1 & 3 on the new sensor side before taking off the old sensor. In other words remove the putty from new sensor side then measure voltage before disconnecting it.
Yehuda started up this thread a while back but it's hard to see exactly how it's done until you get to page 2:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 98#p259158
The step I forgot to mention is that you should match voltage b/w pins 1 & 3 on the new sensor side before taking off the old sensor. In other words remove the putty from new sensor side then measure voltage before disconnecting it.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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