DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 Front Window Askew, Rattling Noise Fix

[cn90]

I have 2 separate problems in my driver window:
- Annoying rattling noise
- Driver Window is askew, whenever it is raised, it rotates forward. When it is lowered, it rotates backward!
This causes imperfect seal and wind noise on highway.

After this fix, all is good:
- No more rattling noise
- Window operates so smoothly!

VolvoFrontReg02.JPG (90.3 KiB) Viewed 3179 times

VolvoFrontReg01.JPG (78.42 KiB) Viewed 3179 times

I am writing a Supplement to some excellent tips in forum:

Front Window R&R by “wheelsup”:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=17226

Window Askew Fix by “tailor”:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=40986

Replacing and Adjusting Front Window Regulator by “flash3b”:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=36650


PARTS NEEDED:
- M6 x 18mm bolt/nut (hardware store)
- Window Rollers x 2: PN 9152606 ($4/each at dealer).
- Window Guide Rail: Left side is 9187464 ($22 at dealer). You may be able to reuse it if not broken.
- Loctite to use on bolts/nuts.
- Some spare clips for door panel.
- Silicone caulk (the stuff used for caulking window at home) because it is likely that the factory glue comes apart from the door panel and you need silicone caulk to glue them back together.


PROCEDURE:
- I will be brief since there are other DIYs already.
- To avoid draining battery, turn inside lights off, remove the light at the edge of the door so it does not run for hours as this job may take more than 1h. Of course you can always d/c the battery but you need to reconnect whenever you need to adjust window.

1. Remove Inner Door Panel (youtube has video): cover trim, torx screw, then undo the retaining clips.
Then lift the door panel straight up.
Make a note of all electrical connections and d/c electrical connectors. Set the door panel in a safe place.


2. If you only perform the simple adjustment of the glass "askew" issue, then note the diagram provided by "flash3b" above. In my case the nut labeled "yellow A" became loose. Below is the photo by "flash3b":
- During adjustment, I left window a few inches down (from top position), rotate the rear of the window ---> aft position, then apply Loctite then temporarily tighten the 2 nuts.
- Now undo the Master Swiotch from the door panel, re-attach it and test the glass.
- Once you are happy, tighten the 2 nuts further:





3. To replace Window Guide Rail, see DIY by “wheelsup” above. Wheelsup’s Volvo 850 has a bolt attaching the Window Guide Rail. My 1998 S70 Window Guide Rail is attached from factory by rivet, with time it works loose causing rattling noise. In my case, I drilled out the factory rivet.

- Now drill the Window Guide Rail hole larger to accept 6mm bolt.
- Before removing factory Window Guide Rail, look at how it attaches to the rubber guide above it. Watch very carefully as the rubber guide has a metal on the inner side and rubber on the outer side.
- During install, make sure the new Window Guide Rail slides into the rubber guide properly!
- Install the M6 bolt/nut using Loctite.


4. To replace the Rollers: best is to remove the glass:

- Remove the Inner Top Trim (next to the glass), note the orientation for re-installation.
- Lower the glass a few inches until both rollers are visible in the holes.
- Get a wooden stick long enough to support the glass because it will fall once the arm is disconnected from the rollers. Place this wooden stick inside door to support glass.
- Loosen the metal clips on the rollers, then pry the metal arm’s (this arm moves the window up and down) ball joint from the rollers.
- Remove glass and lay in on a cardboard/cloth.

- Use a pair of right-angle pliers to remove the rollers. Note one of the rollers has the metal clip attached to it, so make note of the orientation for re-installation.
- Once the glass is back in the car, support it, then use a pair of pliers to squeeze the arm’s ball joint back into the rollers (loosen the clips on the rollers first!).

- Then slide the clip on the roller to lock the arm’s ball joint in place.

VolvoFrontReg03.JPG (93.44 KiB) Viewed 3179 times

PS: If you want to grease the window gear mechanism, then remove the "front bottom plastic cover 1B in the photo above", reach your hand inside and you will feel the gearing mechanism, smear some grease on this gear.

[georgeg73]

I replaced the rollers (I used a large screw driver blade to spread the clip and get it started.), repaired the broken bracket for the guide for rear of the window, adjusted and tightened nut A, and the front of the window still drops when rolling up and I get a loud clunk when rolling the window all the way down. I noticed the window pops out of the front guide when rolled all the way down too (I think that's the source of the clunk.), not sure if this is the problem or a symptom of some other problem. When I had the regulator out, I noticed significant play in the arm for the forward roller. I attempted to stake the star pin and arm together to eliminate the play, no luck. I suspect that is where my problems is. Any idea of what the problem is and what the fix is? (I'm not sure who all looks at these so I'm going to repost this on post where the picture of the door with labels came from, if I can find it again.)

[850forum]

factory Window Guide Rail, look at how it attaches to the rubber guide above it. Watch very carefully as the rubber guide has a metal on the inner side and rubber on the outer side.
- During install, make sure the new Window Guide Rail slides into the rubber guide properly!
>
That's what I need to know since mine is busted.

>
Use a pair of right-angle pliers to remove the rollers. Note one of the rollers has the metal clip attached to it, so make note of the orientation for re-installation.
- Once the glass is back in the car, support it, then use a pair of pliers to squeeze the arm’s ball joint back into the rollers (loosen the clips on the rollers first!).
- Then slide the clip on the roller to lock the arm’s ball joint in place.
>

Huh? BOTH Sliding Blocks have a clip.
And you managed to force the ball stub through the already-inserted clip without busting the plastic on the roller ???
On my 850, the rear roller has broken at the holes, its very thin due to the hole. Both sides were cracked.

I can't figure out how to apply enough force on the clip to get it over the ball, especially when I need one hand to keep the ball pushed into the roller. Maybe Vice Grips for that, but then it reduces my working space inside that hole in the panel.