PB Blaster vs. Kroil

[JimBee]

Since learning about PB Blaster several years ago, I'd come to depend on it for tough loosening tasks. Then last year I heard about Kroil and have given a try. I'm still not convinced it lives up to its advertising and popular reputation, but I still use it occasionally. In fact I have some soaking on a piece of sponge rubber wrapped around a brake line fitting that is resisting the wrench.

Today I Googled it and came up with this:
http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubb ... ber=215171

Has anyone else used it? Do we have a majority opinion?

[JDS60R]

Kroil makes a product called Silikroil . It penetrates much faster. Kano labs is right here in Nashville.

I'll take Silikroil over PB every time.

[JimBee]

Twenty four hours of soaking the RR brake line fitting (at the wheel cyl.) with Kroil and I still couldn't get the fitting to loosen, even using my handy new Irwin special 3-face locking pliers.
So tonight I again saturated the sponge that's tucked behind the line, this time with PB Blaster. Tomorrow I will try again.

[Ben850]

Twenty four hours of soaking the RR brake line fitting (at the wheel cyl.) with Kroil and I still couldn't get the fitting to loosen, even using my handy new Irwin special 3-face locking pliers.
So tonight I again saturated the sponge that's tucked behind the line, this time with PB Blaster. Tomorrow I will try again.

I nearly rounded mine the last time I was back there trying to replace the caliper.
The job got put on hold since I had the wrong e-brake shoes. I also bought the Vise grip 7LW. I plan on getting the 4LW as well, pictured below, since it goes smaller than 7/16".
I will also go in with a MAP/PRO torch which I picked up from ebay. I will heat the caliper, not the brass fitting, then apply more PB ( I don't have Kroil anyway. ) until it works.
Not worried about overheating the piston seals. I have the new caliper.

vise grip 4LW.jpg (10.07 KiB) Viewed 3540 times

MAPP Torch.jpg (2.13 KiB) Viewed 3540 times

I would consider buying the Kroil next time I need penetrating oil. I have recently been using WD-40 penetrant. I take it to the pick and pull in my tool bag and it seems to work in every situation so far.
I am on my second can. It worked great on the four O2 sensors I've had to do.

product-penetrant.png (139.78 KiB) Viewed 3540 times

[erikv11]

Try a mix that is 50% acetone and 50% transmission fluid. By forum lore it is supposed to be an amazing penetrant, much better than PB ...

[Ben850]

Try a mix that is 50% acetone and 50% transmission fluid. By forum lore it is supposed to be an amazing penetrant, much better than PB ...

I'll try that for soaking. I'd like to get it in one of those nifty spray cans with the flip up nozzle tube.

[abscate]

Not just forum lore, but the 50-50 volume/volume acetone/ATF mix is actually measured and documented as the best release fluid out here in another thread.

Warning - Acetone is highly flammable and linked to cataracts - do not use in enclosed spaces and keep from sparks and open flames. It will also wickedly dry out your skin.

[erikv11]

Would love to see that thread, couldn't find it in a quick search. I have seen many accounts that swear by the mix but not any kind of controlled comparison.

But wouldn't such a report just support its status as lore, anyway? Nothing derogatory about being referred to as "forum lore." I would consider the majority of the accepted best practices here, to be lore.

http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/lore

On the open flames: good point; let the acetone evaporate before you hit the stuck bolt with a torch.

[abscate]

Here is the reference I found - I agree its all internet lore in the final analysis...


poster: oregon, referencing louty


The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."

[QuirkySwede]

Try a mix that is 50% acetone and 50% transmission fluid. By forum lore it is supposed to be an amazing penetrant, much better than PB ...

I'll try that for soaking. I'd like to get it in one of those nifty spray cans with the flip up nozzle tube.

Just use an old spray bottle that has a "STREAM" setting, better still if it also has a "SPRAY" one as well. Acetone is sold in metal cans. To avoid any potential issues with the mix degrading plastic and ruining the spray mechanism or degrading the container, pour mix into a glass jar and seal when done, then rinse the bottle and sprayer (pumping it) with hot soapy water. Label both "ATF/Acetone 50/50 Sprayer" so someone else doesn't accidentally use the sprayer later for basting the pot roast!

By the way, MAPP gas has been out of production since 2008! Vendors, clerks and customers all think that MAPP is still what is sold in the yellow bottles at the hardware stores -- it is NOT. What is sold is actually MAP (check the labels).

MAPP = Methyl-Acetylene (Propyne) and Propadiene or Methyl-Acetylene-Propadiene Propane

MAP = Liquified Petroleum Gas (LPG, e.g. butane or propane) with propylene added in, no acetylene

MAP-Pro sold by Bernzo-Matic (which was acquired by Worthington in 2011) clearly lists "Propylene" on it's MSDS sheet as the ingredient ("500 ppm") in addition to liquid gas. Check the bottle.
Going to "MSDS sheets" at http://www.bernzomatic.com/safety.html will take you to a page with this link:
http://www.worthingtoncylinders.com/Libraries/MSDS_Sheets/wc001_map_pro_premium_hand_torch_fuel.sflb.ashx