Hi I have a 93 960 sedan with about 212000 kms on the clock.
The rear main seal is leaking quite bad now, I've sorta ignored it for a while as the leak on the driveway was only spots, now its getting larger and larger.
I've searched high and low for a thread that instructs how to replace the seal to no avail, only one I saw was for an 850, like apples and oranges.
Can anyone direct me to details instructions, I know they exist just don't where.
Cheers
Kappy
1993 960 rear main seal
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lindy8_man
- Posts: 126
- Joined: 29 November 2009
- Year and Model: 1998 S90
- Location: San Diego
It sounds like you pull the tranny, then drop the oil pan and you don't have to lift the engine to get at the rear seal. here are a few links from brickboard:
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/150 ... _time.html
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/893 ... al_rr.html
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/153 ... drift.html
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/714 ... _seal.html
I assumed from your post that you had done a search in the MVS Forum. With so much info available on Brickboard, it is a wonder that MVS has no info for you...
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/150 ... _time.html
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/893 ... al_rr.html
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/153 ... drift.html
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/714 ... _seal.html
I assumed from your post that you had done a search in the MVS Forum. With so much info available on Brickboard, it is a wonder that MVS has no info for you...
Beer and DIY Volvo Repairs are proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
- Joined: 21 August 2010
- Year and Model: Lots
- Location: Melbourne Australia
- Has thanked: 8 times
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Not a home DIY job unless you own a hoist or if you love arduous torture. Transmission gets pulled by first removing starter, then driveplate whose torx 45 bolts are accessed from the exhaust side through a cutout in the engine block.
After above procedure gear linkage and wiring loom to gearbox as well as cooling lines which require 5/8 pipe tool. To get to the lines we had to drop the exhaust at the flange. Not the nicest job and requires long 14mm spanner for the 10 engine to transmission bolts as well as other combinations of wrench, especially on the starter side. Once gearbox is removed the seal is accessible without dropping pan.
To avoid all this seal costs $35 and pay a mechanic for 4.5-5 hrs labour; it's well worth it.
After above procedure gear linkage and wiring loom to gearbox as well as cooling lines which require 5/8 pipe tool. To get to the lines we had to drop the exhaust at the flange. Not the nicest job and requires long 14mm spanner for the 10 engine to transmission bolts as well as other combinations of wrench, especially on the starter side. Once gearbox is removed the seal is accessible without dropping pan.
To avoid all this seal costs $35 and pay a mechanic for 4.5-5 hrs labour; it's well worth it.
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960, S.V90 Repair Times.pdf- (5.96 MiB) Downloaded 241 times
Last edited by precopster on 07 Aug 2013, 17:56, edited 1 time in total.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
I replaced the flex plate on my sprinter van, took the best part of a day but I didn't know what I was doing, the hardest part was the studs on torque converter/flex plate.
The seal costs $75 in West Australia, not that expensive, some mechanics charge upwards of $95-120 per hour in WA, plus a good chance to fiddle with my annoying switch that causes my flashing arrow issue.
I made an elevated ramp set up to give access when doing the sprinter.
Should be achievable.
Despite all the claims made by all the additive company's there really isn't any additive made that can fix the rear seal, IS THERE???
Cheers
Kappy
The seal costs $75 in West Australia, not that expensive, some mechanics charge upwards of $95-120 per hour in WA, plus a good chance to fiddle with my annoying switch that causes my flashing arrow issue.
I made an elevated ramp set up to give access when doing the sprinter.
Should be achievable.
Despite all the claims made by all the additive company's there really isn't any additive made that can fix the rear seal, IS THERE???
Cheers
Kappy
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lindy8_man
- Posts: 126
- Joined: 29 November 2009
- Year and Model: 1998 S90
- Location: San Diego
Thanks precopster. Good to know about the oil pan... That was really a guess from another project I did... When I was really young and rambunctious...
Kappy, Do you have any other signs indicating an overhaul is coming your way? (Compression, noise, smoke etc...) I was thinking I would worry about my s90 at about 300K. point is, if you are going to pay $800, what else can or should you try and fit in there while you have the engine separated from the tranny. Perhaps a complete overhaul while costing more than $800 would be cash better spent.
Kappy, Do you have any other signs indicating an overhaul is coming your way? (Compression, noise, smoke etc...) I was thinking I would worry about my s90 at about 300K. point is, if you are going to pay $800, what else can or should you try and fit in there while you have the engine separated from the tranny. Perhaps a complete overhaul while costing more than $800 would be cash better spent.
Beer and DIY Volvo Repairs are proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
I spoke with a very helpful Volvo mechanic this morning he has advised me to double check on the rear main, as his experience is that the 6 cylinder is uncommon with rear mains, more like cam seals.
His estimate for rear main is $700.
He mentioned something about an oil box, did quite catch what he meant, but that can be responsible put excessive internal pressure and maybe a cause if the rear main is toast.
On a quick inspection this afternoon with a torch and mirror I see considerable old oil high up on the bell housing and below that in MHO is unlikely of a rear main.
Anyway this mechanic invited me to drop in and they will do a free assessment.
More will be revealed.
His estimate for rear main is $700.
He mentioned something about an oil box, did quite catch what he meant, but that can be responsible put excessive internal pressure and maybe a cause if the rear main is toast.
On a quick inspection this afternoon with a torch and mirror I see considerable old oil high up on the bell housing and below that in MHO is unlikely of a rear main.
Anyway this mechanic invited me to drop in and they will do a free assessment.
More will be revealed.
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
- Joined: 21 August 2010
- Year and Model: Lots
- Location: Melbourne Australia
- Has thanked: 8 times
- Been thanked: 128 times
The rear cam seals are a real bear but not impossible. You need a cam seal driver to get the job done as well as mirrors to reflect the image.
They do fail often on 960s but only because most people avoid them during timing belt replacement due to their location.
They do fail often on 960s but only because most people avoid them during timing belt replacement due to their location.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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lindy8_man
- Posts: 126
- Joined: 29 November 2009
- Year and Model: 1998 S90
- Location: San Diego
I found this write up:
960 Rear Cam Seal Repair. [Long, Involved Tale from Tom Irwin] First, many thanks go out to Steve, Abe and the other generous tipsters without who's help I would have had a bit more difficulty. .
OK, the heater hoses are in the way so in preparing to disconnect and remove them I drained ~6 litres of coolant from the petcock on the Ex. side of the block. Make sure you have a jug of Type C Blue sitting around before you start, if you choose to do it this way. Well, then I noticed that with the coolant drained, the hoses became soft and flexible enough to be squished back/down out of the way. So I did that and left them connected.
Don't even think of doing this job without a telescoping inspection mirror, preferably a self-illuminated one.
The 2 T-40's that hold the cam sensor housing to the head...these are BIG mamajama's! They are made of soft metal and are easily deformed. And I promise you, they are frozen in their threads. Breakaway torque is considerably stonger then the set torque values. **CAUTION** if you strip or otherwise wreck the bottom T-40 fastener, you will likely have to PULL THE ENGINE to complete the job...'Nuff said.
Also, DO NOT use an El Cheapo T-40 driver bit either...if it comes out of a kit with a bazillion other parts...uses different adapters to connect it to a plastic handle and says "made in China"...GET THEM OUT OF THE WORK AREA..
Luckily, I went after the top T-40 first and the bit yielded under load and wrecked the head of the T-40!! Because it was the TOP one I was able to grab it hard with a monster vise-grip and bust it loose, after which it spun right out, no problem. My wife went out and got me a hardened, impact grade T-40 x 3/8" ratchet drive bit. Made ALL the difference! Even after I cheezed up the lower one a little, this quality bit grabbed it's target and brought the lower bolt out.
The Cam Sensor cover may be a bit gummed up with oil residue, so it may want to rotate a bit instead of withdrawing from the head. Fine! Rotate it CCW a bit and you can tap the upper and lower mtg. ears with a drift and light hammer alternately, until it walk's out. Set this aside.
Remove the 10mm bolt that retains the "shutter wheel" this is kinda like taking out a rotor from a distributor housing. no problem. Set the shutter aside. Wipe out the pooled oil.
If you are smart you'll have a seal picker kit with many different parts to make many different articulated angles...you will need them. If you are *me* you'll waste an hour sacrifice two craftsman screwdrivers in a vise with an Acetylene torch, trying to fabricate the same thing. For the record, the smaller one worked better. Use a Dremel tool or equiv. to de-burr and hone the business end of this thing so as to not damgage any sealing surfaces.
Now is when you MUST have an inspection mirror. Get on back there, work carefully as you are working a mirrored image. Hook that sucker under the garter spring + up behind the metal ring and it pops right out real easy. Wipe the cavity out again and reinspect the sealing surfaces for damage.
Lube up the new seal with... I dunno...I used heavy weight petrolatum..and ease it over the cam shaft. Try and jam several fingers back there and push evenly on different point on the seal. Make sure it doesn't cock in the bore. Stop and use your inspection mirror frequently to check it is even. To bring it home...again, if your smart, you'll find a way to get a hold of Volvo Tool P/N 999-5450. It has a perfectly dimensioned steel cup with a hole in the back to put your cam shaft shuter bolt thru temporarily to tighten the cup down and push the seal in to place. If you are me, you'll hack a piece of nylon bar stock at work and while the prototype machinists are on break and "borrow" a CNC Vertical Mill and fabricate same based on Seal dimensions and your best guess from a picture in the service manual.
Anyway, my best guess was about .250" off, but before I ran off to get a longer bolt, I put both hands on it and squeezed it against the head and ... "Whump" it popped right in. Check it again with the mirror for even seating.
Put the shutter + 10mm bolt back in. Fit the tabs squarely in the milled slot on the end of the cam. Tighten.
Clean the rim on the sensor cover and gently fit it over the shutter wheel being careful not to damage
the magnetic pick up chingas inside. Align the holes and replace the T-40's.
Fill-up your coolant. Take a Prozac. Start your engine. Check your work.
I assume you saw the write up on the MVS site here: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=24925
Precopster are we looking at the same process for the 960 only with two cams and a lighted mirror?
960 Rear Cam Seal Repair. [Long, Involved Tale from Tom Irwin] First, many thanks go out to Steve, Abe and the other generous tipsters without who's help I would have had a bit more difficulty. .
OK, the heater hoses are in the way so in preparing to disconnect and remove them I drained ~6 litres of coolant from the petcock on the Ex. side of the block. Make sure you have a jug of Type C Blue sitting around before you start, if you choose to do it this way. Well, then I noticed that with the coolant drained, the hoses became soft and flexible enough to be squished back/down out of the way. So I did that and left them connected.
Don't even think of doing this job without a telescoping inspection mirror, preferably a self-illuminated one.
The 2 T-40's that hold the cam sensor housing to the head...these are BIG mamajama's! They are made of soft metal and are easily deformed. And I promise you, they are frozen in their threads. Breakaway torque is considerably stonger then the set torque values. **CAUTION** if you strip or otherwise wreck the bottom T-40 fastener, you will likely have to PULL THE ENGINE to complete the job...'Nuff said.
Also, DO NOT use an El Cheapo T-40 driver bit either...if it comes out of a kit with a bazillion other parts...uses different adapters to connect it to a plastic handle and says "made in China"...GET THEM OUT OF THE WORK AREA..
Luckily, I went after the top T-40 first and the bit yielded under load and wrecked the head of the T-40!! Because it was the TOP one I was able to grab it hard with a monster vise-grip and bust it loose, after which it spun right out, no problem. My wife went out and got me a hardened, impact grade T-40 x 3/8" ratchet drive bit. Made ALL the difference! Even after I cheezed up the lower one a little, this quality bit grabbed it's target and brought the lower bolt out.
The Cam Sensor cover may be a bit gummed up with oil residue, so it may want to rotate a bit instead of withdrawing from the head. Fine! Rotate it CCW a bit and you can tap the upper and lower mtg. ears with a drift and light hammer alternately, until it walk's out. Set this aside.
Remove the 10mm bolt that retains the "shutter wheel" this is kinda like taking out a rotor from a distributor housing. no problem. Set the shutter aside. Wipe out the pooled oil.
If you are smart you'll have a seal picker kit with many different parts to make many different articulated angles...you will need them. If you are *me* you'll waste an hour sacrifice two craftsman screwdrivers in a vise with an Acetylene torch, trying to fabricate the same thing. For the record, the smaller one worked better. Use a Dremel tool or equiv. to de-burr and hone the business end of this thing so as to not damgage any sealing surfaces.
Now is when you MUST have an inspection mirror. Get on back there, work carefully as you are working a mirrored image. Hook that sucker under the garter spring + up behind the metal ring and it pops right out real easy. Wipe the cavity out again and reinspect the sealing surfaces for damage.
Lube up the new seal with... I dunno...I used heavy weight petrolatum..and ease it over the cam shaft. Try and jam several fingers back there and push evenly on different point on the seal. Make sure it doesn't cock in the bore. Stop and use your inspection mirror frequently to check it is even. To bring it home...again, if your smart, you'll find a way to get a hold of Volvo Tool P/N 999-5450. It has a perfectly dimensioned steel cup with a hole in the back to put your cam shaft shuter bolt thru temporarily to tighten the cup down and push the seal in to place. If you are me, you'll hack a piece of nylon bar stock at work and while the prototype machinists are on break and "borrow" a CNC Vertical Mill and fabricate same based on Seal dimensions and your best guess from a picture in the service manual.
Anyway, my best guess was about .250" off, but before I ran off to get a longer bolt, I put both hands on it and squeezed it against the head and ... "Whump" it popped right in. Check it again with the mirror for even seating.
Put the shutter + 10mm bolt back in. Fit the tabs squarely in the milled slot on the end of the cam. Tighten.
Clean the rim on the sensor cover and gently fit it over the shutter wheel being careful not to damage
the magnetic pick up chingas inside. Align the holes and replace the T-40's.
Fill-up your coolant. Take a Prozac. Start your engine. Check your work.
I assume you saw the write up on the MVS site here: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=24925
Precopster are we looking at the same process for the 960 only with two cams and a lighted mirror?
Beer and DIY Volvo Repairs are proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
Thanks for all that info.
Yesterday I thoroughly degreased and washed all around the rear of block and all of bell housing,gearbox exhaust where oil has been dripping ( evidence maybe not rear main).
Will have to drive up to Perth, 250 kms on Sunday by then will see where oil is coming from.
I didn't see that write up and although it was an 850, I guess they are similar, although I wish I had an 850 looks easier LOL
Cheers
Kappy
Yesterday I thoroughly degreased and washed all around the rear of block and all of bell housing,gearbox exhaust where oil has been dripping ( evidence maybe not rear main).
Will have to drive up to Perth, 250 kms on Sunday by then will see where oil is coming from.
I didn't see that write up and although it was an 850, I guess they are similar, although I wish I had an 850 looks easier LOL
Cheers
Kappy
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