ABS / TRACS question before I repair the module. 98 V70 Wa

[Spiney]

I read 4 pages of the DYI ABS Module page. Excellent write up. Before I tackle that I wanted to run my symptoms by the board and see if they think it's the module or something else.

98 V70 wagon automatic. Car has about 109K miles on it. We had replaced the module once already about 4-5 years ago and maybe 25K miles ago. I used a refurb off of EBay. Maybe one of Victors? Just this week ABS & TRACS lights come on after a trip of less than 1 mile. Also my wife only drive generally 3 miles round trip to work. I went out put the car in neutral revved the engine and the lights went out. Stayed out for a week. Tonight they came back on again. Same thing, took it out drove her hard, lights went out and stayed out.

A couple of months ago a CV joint was replaced. Right after that we had some ABS issues. Seems a sensor was put on wrong or damaged by the shop. They replaced it and all was well.

So by the way it's acting, any chance there is a sensor going bad or dirty?

Also if it is the ABS module. We are leaving for vacation in a week. I was a electronics / computer tech 30 years ago. I'm not afraid to solder it, but if something goes south, I'm screwed.

Is it safe to leave it alone until we get back?

Before I read the DYI article I was going to buy another ABS module off of EBay for $99, so I'm glad I saw the article.

If I go the U pull it route, which year ABS modules will work in a 98 V70 w/ TRACS?

Thanks much in advance for any replies,

Spiney-Dave

[Ozark Lee]

At your stage of failure about the worst that can happen is that the TRACS would want to activate all of the time. If that were to happen on the road you can just unplug the power to the modulator pump. The warning lights would be on full time and the ABS wouldn't work but the brakes themselves would work just fine.

The symptoms you describe almost sound like an ignition switch that is going bad. If it acts up on you again try to jiggle the key and see if things change.

...Lee

[Spiney]

We had an issue with the lockout function, meaning when we put the car in park we had trouble getting the key out. But that was over a year ago. Our service person did something but when he did we can now take the key out without putting the car in park.

Could there be an issue with something in the automatic shift selector? And or the S-E-W switches? Thanks, Dave

[Ozark Lee]

Code: Select all

Our service person did something but when he did we can now take the key out without putting the car in park. 

That sounds like a band aid approach to the problem. The key shouldn't come out until the car is in Park and the button on the shifter has popped back out into the locking position. The latter part is where most of the problems occur, the shifter buttons are too fragile for the application and when they break they tend to hang up and not pop back out into the locked position without some coaxing.

The transmission program selector buttons (S E W) have nothing to do with any of this, they electronically select the program used in the transmission control module.

Now comes the question of what was altered to allow the key to be removed without the car being in park? The modification would have been made either at the shifter mechanism, which would be a bit tough, or at the mechanical part of the ignition switch. Since your original symptoms point toward an issue with the electrical part of the ignition switch I am going to guess the latter and the modification has put some additional stress on the electrical side of the ignition switch.

Since I can't see what has been done all I can do is guess. The "jiggle the key" test will help to narrow things down.

...Lee