2002 V70 XC- advice for brake pad change- but keeping rotors

tdorsey13206 · Post by **tdorsey13206** » 04 Sep 2013, 17:02

I've searched high and low for a recommendation on what, if anything, needs to be done to the front rotors when keeping the rotors but changing the pads. The rotors meet the minimum thickness, and are in good shape, but the soft Volvo brake pads are done, so I'm changing the pads only.

I know it's not recommended to turn the rotors, but is there anything to be done to prep them for the new pads? Thanks for your insight, successes or lessons learned. This is a great site full of invaluable help!

CountryBum-kin · Post by **CountryBum-kin** » 05 Sep 2013, 18:26

As long as the rotors are within specification and no cracks you should be good. I would advise having the rotors trued and scraped to prevent vibration and chatter.

covert24 · Post by **covert24** » 08 Sep 2013, 21:43

As long as the rotors are not grooved out, the wear pattern is even, and its true, take some 120 or 220 grit sandpaper and just rough them up a little bit. Make sure you wipe then clean with brake cleaner after you sand them though. Will get the initial braking material from the pads transferred and then the break-in process begins just like any other brake job.

Post by **IdahoBob** » 13 Sep 2013, 06:29

I'll concur with both previous responses.
If the rotor is undamaged (no cracks, no really deep grooves, is still un-warped) you should be able to just change the pads and go. I have done this many times, on several different cars, with no mechanical problems. A quick hit with some sand paper is a good idea. I've also used the spray on rotor cleaner; but that stuff is brain damage in a can, so sandpaper is preferred.
But...Since the new pads you are putting on will probably be a different design, and may not have exactly the same foot print on the rotor, you'll typically get some dragging noise & extra dust as old high spots on the rotor rub against areas of the new pad. I've seen this when the new pad has a beveled surface and is presenting a smaller area to the rotor than the removed pad was presenting. My theory for not grinding has been that the grooves just present more grab surface to the pads as they wear in, so it's like having bigger rotors

. But...the very edge of the rotor doesn't get contacted by the pad, so it can build up a high edge that drags along the edge of the new pad and seems to create the most noise.
I take rotors to my local tire shop, and for $10 each they'll grind them back out flat. The chain parts stores here want $18-20 each; so a few minutes on the phone are worthwhile.
I get a particularly large edge on my '02 XC, as I put the later model, slightly larger discs on it (had a cracked rotor, had to get kid back to college, that's all the local parts store had, they were cheaper) and they have a bit more un-contacted edge.
Happy Motoring!

carboncow · Post by **carboncow** » 14 Sep 2013, 16:29

CountryBum-kin wrote:As long as the rotors are within specification and no cracks you should be good. I would advise having the rotors trued and scraped to prevent vibration and chatter.

I always turn my rotors no matter what the car if they meet the minimum the NAPA shop says...if they won't do them, I trust them. Mine charges $15 for the pair. Just did our 2003 last month and our 2001 in the spring. Went with ceramic pads (about $65.00) on both...couldn't be happier with dust and stopping power.