sudden ETS warning and limp after extreme cold

crispymoon · Post by **crispymoon** » 04 Jan 2014, 10:01

Hello All!
This is my first post on MVS, but not my first visit. I've read posts on the converting AWD to FWD after drive shaft failure that saved me a fortune.

I have a 1999 V70 AWD XC (that was just recently converted to FWD) with 133K miles. I'm the second owner and have had it from July.

Yesterday morning the temp here was -14 and the car was parked outside the garage. I've been away from the upper midwest for 8 years, but grew-up here. I seemed to remember that starting a car in the cold (with Electronic fuel injetion) to put the gas pedal all the way to the floor before turning the key. I did this and I was mighty happy when it turned over a couple of times and then roared to life. I let it warm about 10 mins and then my son drove it 2 miles to school and back later that day. About 15 minutes after he returned we went out to take it somewhere. It started up just fine but as I drove about 50 feet, it had a total "freak-out' , sputtered, chugged and lurched and died right as I was about to pull into the interesction at the end of my block into oncoming traffic. For a moment it threw every warning light.
I restarted it and it maintained just the "ETS" light. It took me 3 restarts and the pedal floored to go in REVERSE back to my driveway at a snail's pace. I understand after reading some articles here that this is called "limp mode"?
I have a decent independent garage here, but they can't see it until Jan 15 and I'll have to get it towed there.
Is there something I can do in the meanwhile to see if this is a less expensive problem than a total ETM replacement? Specific hoses I can check that maybe my 'violent" cold start-up caused? Order and replace perhaps just the MAF thing mentioned? To be honest, I'm not at ALL mechanically inclined, but maybe with some really good pictures of things to look at, I can troubleshoot away simpler issues and avoid costly towing, diagnosis, and total ETM replacement.
I'm a single mom of 3 and although my 17 yr old boy would LOVE to imagine he can be freed of driving a giant, white, station wagon.. I just don't have the budget for anything else. It's fix this cheap (500 or less) or send it away to "live on the farm".
I see there is a "helper" forum, so I may be seeing if Iowa has any kind souls who might lend their expertise for eternal gratitude and good karma (and homemade fudge?)
Kind regards and thanks for advising me on what I can try. I'll be happy to report back

Post by **precopster** » 04 Jan 2014, 12:16

If you can read the codes on the car you'll be in a far better position to diagnose the problem accurately and with a minimum of cost. There's a OBD II port for just this purpose located under the armrest.

Look online for a budget priced reader from a good company such as Autel.

Once you have some codes post them up and we'll help you with deciphering them.

crispymoon · Post by **crispymoon** » 04 Jan 2014, 13:35

Thank you for the reply! I'll ask at work if anyone happens to have a code reader I can borrow. I've seen the "OBDII" port in the armrest and often wondered what it was.

I tried something... I unhooked the air-flow meter and tried again.

Instead of the stuccato rev'ing and zero "go" power, it worked! It bounced a bit around 1K, then a zoomed above to about 1.5 and then steadied out at just under 1K.

We tried letting it "creep" forward slowly and it felt like normal power. Then we drove it around the block and all was good.

Both ETS and Check Engine were illuminated.

We turned off the engine and re-plugged the air-flow sensor thing. Sputtering re-started and crazy rev'ing and zero power.

Unplugged again and after initial 30 sec or so of up/down RPM it steadied out again.

But, after we turned off the car, the COOLING fan by the radiator kept running.. quite awhile for how little the car ran and for having only 20 degrees faherenheit. We found the fuse for the cooling fan and unplugged it and it stopped.

The car wouldn't start with cooling fuse fan removed, so we replaced it again.

Funny thing, the ETS and Check Engine warning lights stayed off.

It seems to run nicely with MAF unhooked from power , but shutting off the car leaves the FAN running?

I'm not clear whether it's OK to replace the MAF? I've ordered one because I figure it couldn't hurt.

Is there a connection be between the power supply to the MAF that I disconnected and running of the cooling fan??

Quite peculiar, be we sure were proud when we had it idling nicely!

I'll report back with codes as soon as I can, thanks AGAIN!
Sheila

Post by **kcodyjr** » 04 Jan 2014, 14:12

You've conclusively proven your MAF is shot. Go ahead and replace it.

Edit.

1st of all, bravo. I like you already.

2nd, by disconnecting the MAF, you've made the computer take a best guess how much air is coming in, which is obviously more accurate than what the MAF was telling it. That's why it's running better, and why it proves the MAF is shot.

3rd, the MAF not being present is itself definitely throwing a code and setting the CEL. I'm not sure if it'll go away on its own after replacing it or if you'll have to clear the code, but all it's doing is turning on the idiot light. Nothing to worry about, but then, the scanner you can borrow for free at autozone will reset it.

4th, the ETS light might or might not be related to the MAF. You'll need to pull the codes to find out, which will require access to a VIDA/DiCE setup. If you intend to keep this car for the long haul, you'll either need a local indy you're on good terms with, or get your hands on one.

Post by **precopster** » 04 Jan 2014, 15:02

Ok now that you've narrowed down the MAF as a big suspect it's best to replace it. Bosch Part number is 0280218108. Cheapest source may be RockAuto or FCP Euro or Europarts depending on what they have going at the time. A good price would be around $120 but a eBay seller germanauto supply has them for around $98 at the momemt.

Once you have one the hardest part is separating the tubing from the turbo pipe. You can just change tbe sensor part which will require a different torx driver to the usual (a 5 sided security torx)

Good luck with the install and let us know how you go.

crispymoon · Post by **crispymoon** » 04 Jan 2014, 16:35

The nice guy at Autozone (yep, I drove the car there and back with MAF unhooked) hooked up the reader and got just one code: P0102
That was with both "Check engine" and "ETS" warning lights illuminated. Don't know if I should have re-hooked up the MAF and check again?

Post by **kcodyjr** » 04 Jan 2014, 16:38

Nah, don't bother, that's the MAF low input code all right.

The AutoZone guy's code reader won't be able to pull Volvo specific codes from the ETS, only VIDA/DiCE can do that.

Post by **precopster** » 04 Jan 2014, 16:40

The failing MAF can cause apparent ETM failure causing the ETS light to illuminate.
The P0102 is a MAF code but as it's not plugged in this is natural.

crispymoon · Post by **crispymoon** » 04 Jan 2014, 16:47

Should I have asked the AUtozone guy to clear the codes?

I ordered an MAF, but not the Bosch (I hadn't seen your post yet). I suspect that might have been a mistake but they looked identical.

Big, giant thanks to you all on this site. The last big save was when my rear drive shaft and rear differential were toast. I saw that some people her had just removed it and done fine, so I had the mechanic just take it off (he had me sign a waiver saying I knew that it was not volvo recommended action to take). The dealer would NOT have removed it for me.

This is my 2nd volvo. My first was a 2003 V40 diesel which I had when I lived in France for 8 years. Loved that thing, it never gave me ANY trouble!

Despite the Top Gear guys liking the big Volvo in the "teen challenge" episode, my 17 yr old is going to be disappointed that a fix is in sight, he had his hopes pinned on a Camero

Post by **kcodyjr** » 04 Jan 2014, 16:53

If Slomaro has a redeeming quality besides sex appeal, I haven't heard about it.

No point clearing the code until you've replaced the MAF, it'll come right back.