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Horn

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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amyct99

Horn

Post by amyct99 »

My horn is not working. The fuse is still intact. I am now looking for the wiring to the horn...can you give me an idea where to look. If it is Not loose wiring, any suggestions?
Thanks

MadeInJapan
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Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
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Post by MadeInJapan »

I know that this is for the horn stuck and won't stop honking but it could be related: http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx? ... RootID=629
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

visitor

Post by visitor »

I just fixed my horn - here's what I'd suggest. First remove one horn from its mounting point in the front of the car and hard wire it to the battery to make sure it works (just hold wires from the negative and positive battery posts to the contacts on the horn for a sec - if it toots obviously it's okay). More than likely your problem is in the contacts in the steering wheel. To get at them you have to remove the driver's airbag which is right in the middle of the steering wheel - be very careful and don't attempt if you're squirrelly about it. The driver's airbag is held in by two torx bolts on the back side of the wheel. You have to turn the wheel 90 degrees in each direction to expose them. Put your wheel in the complete down and pulled back (toward the driver) position to ease access to the torx bolts. You still don't have much room to get anything in there to get the bolts out because you're up against the instrument panel - I used a torx socket and it worked well - you have to jam it in kind of hard but the padding on the back side of the wheel will compress a little. You'll know you have it when you feel it engage the bolts. Take both bolts out and the airbag unit (the entire center portion of the wheel) will lift out. CAREFULLY unplug the wire from the center of the backside of the airbag unit and set it outside the car somewhere safe. Now you have the horn mechanism exposed. You'll notice that on each side there is a pair of vertical bars - one sits right on top of the other and they're attached at the top and bottom by spring loaded torx screws. Each pair of bars has a small contact (the top ones have contacts on the back side) If your horn is working properly, when you push down the contacts touch - you ground the electrical circuit and electricity goes to the horn which lets the guy in front of you know he's a jerk. You'll notice that the power feed comes into the bar on the right and continues across to the one on the left. The top bar of both pairs should have a ground wire attached to a tang at the top right portion of the bar - these wires run to a little square hole in the top center of the opening. Check all connections, and even take the top bars off by removing the torx screws and gently clean the contacts on all four bars with some emory paper to ensure good electrical contact. You can test the horn as you go (obviously) so that when you put it back together you'll know you're good to go. The vast majority of horn problems in any car are going to be in the steering wheel - horn activation mechanism. After you re-install the airbag your ECM will activate the SRS light on your dash. You can clear it by using your onboard diagnostic box under the hood or if your 850 is a later model you might need to use an OBDII code reader. If you don't already have a Haynes manual for the car I suggest getting one - they're very helpful with stuff like this. Good luck and I hope this helps.

kris

Post by kris »

what type of volvo do you have? that will depend what could possibly be wrong.

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