Volvo S60 Code p1026 Installed New Sacer sensor, still probl

jb6992 · Post by **jb6992** » 19 Feb 2014, 12:14

I will try to keep this short as I can for now. If you need any more info please ask. Ok, I got the car with code P1026. He had done some research online and found the Sacer sensor. Wish I had this site before starting, but took it apart via their directions, so I do not have the starting voltage on original sensor. I got it replaced and installed it, car ran terrible. Removed it and adjusted magnet to fully counter clockwise and installed Throttle body. It ran great, throttle response better than original. Didn't test drive it, just drove it in garage and played with throttle a little, all good. Left it in for the night and went out this morning and Running terrible! chugging, poor throttle response, limp in mode, etc. No immediate codes like before, but after several times of adjusting magnet and even grinding shaft for more adjustment codes p1026 and p2177 set. Last adjustment back to almost fully clockwise and voltage at 1.216v. Sounds High to me, but I have no reference voltage. I would greatly appreciate help with this, pulling my hair out! Thank You very much. Jeff

Post by **JDS60R** » 19 Feb 2014, 13:57

What year /engine S60?

jb6992 · Post by **jb6992** » 19 Feb 2014, 15:51

2002 2.4L non-turbo.

jb6992 · Post by **jb6992** » 22 Feb 2014, 21:09

is there anybody out there that can help me with this? I have spent hours searching the site and replacing the sensor and would greatly appreciate any advice and help. Thank you!

Post by **precopster** » 23 Feb 2014, 03:03

Codes P1021 and P1022 are what the Sacer sensor was specifically developed to combat. These codes relate directly to potentiometer 1 & 2 when the films wear through.

Other codes can be internal problems which a new Sacer TPS can't repair. The voltage you have is low if anything. Usually these calibrate at between 1.29 and 1.45 volts. If you didn't take a reference voltage disconnect the black lead and short the board input for pot 1 directly to the old sensor with some kitchen foil then read the voltage

This may help with the P2177 code: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread ... 9530-p2177

jb6992 · Post by **jb6992** » 27 Feb 2014, 15:47

Thank you Mike for all the help. Running good now sometimes, intermittently sets code P1026 on start up then other times OK. Any chance of a bad spot in wiring harness? If so any common places to check or which circuit causes this code? What are my options for fixing this, if its the ETM? Again Thank You so so much for your time!

Post by **precopster** » 27 Feb 2014, 18:35

If you don't do the Alfoil trick to find out the reference voltage for your ETM you may never find out if the problems you're having are related to poor calibration or not.

1.21 V is close to threshold voltage on these units where they will simply stop working. This unit could be going in and out of operation due to that low voltage.

Check the sensor 1 voltage at the non-Sacer sensor as described above and recalibrate if needed then make a judgement based on that. Is this a turbo?

jb6992 · Post by **jb6992** » 28 Feb 2014, 12:39

Non-Turbo. I removed the Sacer sensor and installed the original, jumped the other side terminal that was cut to install the Sacer and I had 7.63v. Reinstalled the Sacer with the magnet turned all the way counter clockwise and at 1.56v. Started up and ran great, test drove and transmission shifted good with no running problems. Started it several times and once in a while would act up and sometimes all good. With the original sensor installed it set the P1026 code immediately with the key on. I will try to put it back on and get the correct voltage. I think I did it right though. Again thank you Mike!!!

jb6992 · Post by **jb6992** » 28 Feb 2014, 12:45

I don't understand short the board input for pot 1? directly to the old sensor? Which terminal or terminals on old sensor? and board input for pot 1? Is that the terminal I cut and soldered the black wire from the Sacer sensor to?

Post by **precopster** » 28 Feb 2014, 14:49

On pot 1 the instructions say separate the 2nd terminal from the left Pot then solder the black lead to the board input. This bypasses the old sensor on the opposite side to the new Sacer.

Once you fit everything up and you apply voltage to the board via brown and green leads you should achieve a voltage of between 1.29 and 1.43 volts ACROSS TERMINALS 2 & 4 on the pot 1 side and the same voltage across pins 1 &3 on the Sacer sensor. Don't reference to Ground!!

HOWEVER matching voltage to the ORIGINAL sensor is what we're aiming for.

The procedure to match is; simply disconnect the black lead and short the old sensor back to the board with Alfoil then apply voktage and measure. Make sure you insulate that loose black lead so it doesn't touch anything.

To match the voltage from your 1.21 volts to the old sensor's reading you'll need to turn the magnet slightly ANTI-CLOCKWISE on the shaft before tightening the 10mm nut. This procedure is the most fiddly and time consuming. I simply use a builder's clamp on the sensor each time I adjust rather than tightening the screws to save time.

Good luck!!