2003 S40 Need a little advice on changing ATF

[Livens]

Hi all,

My S40 has 118k miles on her and I am going to do change the ATF fluid. I read through the "New Modified Transmission Flush Method with Pictures" thread on here, but it doesn't cover S40's. The only difference are the fluid hose locations and how they connect. In the "Modified" thread the fluid line they connect into is located at the top of the radiator and just has a plastic connector holding it in.

No ATF fluid lines connecting to the top of my radiator. I climbed under and found the lines, they connect to a cooler that runs under the radiator. One line comes down from the top of the transmission, the other connects to the bottom. I believe that the line comming down is outlet from the trans, then goes through the cooler, and back to the trans via the lower line.

I want to change all of the ATF fluid, not just the 3.5qt that the pan holds, so I need to know where to connect my vinly tubing up to pump out the old fluid. Best to pull the line that comes from above off of the cooler, or can I pull the line off where it connects to the bottom of the trans?

Thanks,

Jeremy

[xHeart]

This thread may help a little https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=26863

[precopster]

If you pick the wrong hose it will make a small mess on the cooler and on the ground. I guess you can lay out 2 catch pans in case.

Have someone crank it while you watch for flow then holler for them to cut the engine if you have flow reversed.

If it's the 5 speed be sure to use JWS3309 compliant fluid.

You can't get more than around 3.5 quarts at a time. Best to drain fill, drive, then drain fill drive up to 3 times to ensure you're mixing old fluid with new.

Just idling in N or P is not draining the torque converter.

[Livens]

Thanks for the link xHeart, I hadn't read that one yet.

precopster, are you saying that running the gear selector through Reverse and Drive while holding the brake will not flush the torque converter? That is what I had planned to do. If not I could just jack the front end up in the middle and let the wheels spin while in gear .

Also, I am using Valvoline Maxlife full sythetic Dex/Merc that I found at Wally World, $16.50 for a gallon jug. I do have a 5 speed and this fluid is JWS3309 compliant. Plus many people on the web have had good results with it.

My main issue was that the lines on my trans are rubber hoses connected to short metal lines with those crimp on hose clamps. The metal lines on the cooler are welded on. The metal part the goes into the bottom of the trans has a bracket on the side that bolts onto the trans holding it in. I was hoping to use that one, as I am guessing there is a 0-ring or something that seals it and it just pulls out. I guess I can just replace one of those with a regular hose clamp. I just didnt want to have to pull more than one off to find out which hose was the right one.

[precopster]

Perhaps I'm wrong but after doing it both ways I would now prefer the drain, fill & drive method to the pumping it out method. Much less can go wrong when all you're dealing with is a bolt and crush washer but that's just me.

[xHeart]

The drive cycle between each D&F is like adaption procedure, eliminating air in the system. Gradually mixing with old fluid and then draining it out.

I have completed two cycle of Simple D&F in past three years on my each car, 149k-mi and 131k-mi. The second set was after 12k miles. It is like oil change for me with MOBIL 3309. Bullish on trans.

The level check can be illusive, HOT trans fluid and Idle engine would get you close to the max marker.

[JDS60R]

As long as the car is running the pump is active and the torque converter will be flushed. You also do not have to stop and start the car over and over again. The transmission when level will hold 8 quarts of fluid ( not including the torque converter).

Drain the trans pan by way of the drain plug. Then clean the magnet, install a new crush washer and install.
Then add 8 quarts of fluid to the unit, connect the drain hose to the output of the transmission cooler in the rad and start the car. It will move the 8 quarts through the torque converter into your bucket and run dry.

Turn off car, connect hose back to trans/rad (close the system) and then add at least 3 quarts, Start the car, cycle through gears while level with foot on brake , do not drive yet.
Then leave car in park, running and add to fluid level as needed. Let the car run for 20 minutes to heat up trans fluid and check hot level. We do not drive the car during this period as it seems to be the time needed not only to heat up the fluid but for any released particles etc to find its way to the magnet or screen filter in the unit.

It should be a beautiful cherry red when you check it. After 1 month it should be slightly more purple but not brown or black. If it looks dirty ( dark purple, brown or black) after a few weeks then do drain and fills until it is clean again.

If the car has over 150K miles without a service then drain the trans and add the 3-4 quarts that came out of the plug every time you change oil until the fluid is in good shape again.

[Livens]

Thanks for the Vida procedures JDS60R, that really helps. It also confirms that the lower hose is the outlet and the upper one returns to the trans.

I also like your idea of overfilling the trans with 8 qts after draining the pan and letting it pump all of that extra fluid through all at one time. I was going to do this in about four 2qt sessions , starting and stopping between each.

[xHeart]

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I also like your idea of overfilling the trans with 8 qts after draining the pan and letting it pump all of that extra fluid through all at one time.

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[Livens]

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I also like your idea of overfilling the trans with 8 qts after draining the pan and letting it pump all of that extra fluid through all at one time.

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xHeart, are you agreeing or disagreeing with that?