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2002 V70XC Hard turning but power steering is fine

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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maddogjr_3
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Joined: 15 September 2011
Year and Model: V70 XC, 2002
Location: Fairhaven, MA

2002 V70XC Hard turning but power steering is fine

Post by maddogjr_3 »

So I'm having some trouble with my 2002 Volvo V70XC. I thought it was the power steering pump so I replaced it but the problem didn't go away. It is really hard to turn the wheel. It will feel ok, then get really tough and then be a little smooth again. I had one mechanic tell me it was where the steering column meets the steering rack, but he called that the knuckle and the knuckle is part of the wheel hub so I kind of brushed it off. I believe he is talking about the lower steering shaft but I don't see how this would effect the tightness its giving me. I recently replaced the front struts and associated parts so its not the strut bearings either. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

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MoVolvos
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Post by MoVolvos »

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maddogjr_3 wrote:
I recently replaced the front struts and associated parts so its not the strut bearings either.
Did you have the alignment done after the suspension work?

What was the tire wear like before the suspension work?

Blessings,

BKM
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Blessings,

BKM


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coflynn
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Post by coflynn »

Hello,

Some people call the knuckle what the mechanic mentions. I actually had this same issue, and whilst having my car in to do some PS work they mentioned it, and said they could try to free it up a bit (but I don't know what they did).

Here's a photo of the parts diagram, I assume he means around 13?
Image

JRL
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Post by JRL »

Check the large, round, collar bushing at the firewall.
They get rusty, sometimes make noise but if it has become rusted, it can and will make the steering harder.
I just put one an another car and the design has changed no more (redundant, unnecessary) metal bushing, now just all rubber.

Part # 14 above
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oragex
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Post by oragex »

As previous posters mentioned check this order - all near the pedals

part 14 has a bearing on top, push down the rubber to pop up the bearing. this bearing and the shaft around gets rusted

part 13 is accessible by removing the steering column 14mm bolt (12), then removing the rubber boot (14). at this point you can check if the U-Joint (13) moves easily by hand or if it's stuck.

coflynn
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Post by coflynn »

Just as a note - just did this on my car, had to replace the 'lower steering U-joint' (part #13). If you look under the dash it's trivial to undo bolt #12, separate the two joints (they slide up/down), and check if there is any stiffness in the U-joint or whatnot. The joint does have bearings so it's possible they go bad (as mine had), in which case no amount of grease etc will solve! The wheel was very hard to turn at times, other times would be completely fine. If you jack up front of car will be able to turn lower side with your hand.

Be aware that you MUST REMOVE bolt #15 completely. The shaft from the steering rack has a small hollow cut into it. I broke off bolt #15 so had a hell of a time.. had to hacksaw out a bunch of the U-joint, took an entire day. Also you may have to soak it well to get off the shaft as the U-joint is aluminium & shaft steel so can have some corrosion built up between them. Even if you cut the bolt in half it's not enough, since it will still be pressed into the hollow.

But whatever you do SOAK BOLT #15 WELL with a penetrating lubricant. Use a wire brush on the exposed threads.

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