96 850 What's your favorite spring-lock tool?

Post by **JimBee** » 28 Jun 2014, 18:20

It seems that the secret to changing out the A/C drier, while keeping one's sanity, is having the best tool to release the garter spring, and knowing how to use it. In either case, I'm not there yet. I have the Harbor Freight 6 pack set, flat flanges with the release lip. The tool doesn't really have enough material to firmly grasp to pull the release lip into the garter spring. I'm also thinking the garter spring needs to be lubed before trying to work the tool in there.
I'd like to learn how others do it before I get my sawzall warmed up.

Post by **abscate** » 28 Jun 2014, 18:38

The spring will yield easily, I bet your problem is the tube is seized onto the other tube inside the connection. Once the tool is in place, grabbing each tube with a vice grip can help twist them apart.

If you are replacing the dryer, cutting it off with a wheel so you can get at the connection makes sense too.

Post by **JimBee** » 28 Jun 2014, 20:20

Good point about the seizing problem, that's most likely happened. I've thought about grabbing the tube with a vice grip, but don't want to risk crushing it. Have you tried that? What type of release tool do you use?

Post by **abscate** » 29 Jun 2014, 04:25

I'm the sucker who bough Snap one for an ungodly amount of money. I am down to 10 USD per use

Jim..I realise that the spring does not provide any rotational resistance to the tubes, it simply prevents them from sliding axially. You could vice grip and twist without the tool in place. The drier tube is already resistant to twist as it is attached to the can, of course, so

Use a good quality vice grip (no harbor freight, or 5 vice grip /1 dollar) with sharp teeth and don't worry about scratching the tube surface a bit. Once it rotates a bit, in goes the tool, and then wiggle it out. You can PB blast and clean that up later too.

Post by **JimBee** » 29 Jun 2014, 08:12

Since the steel tube upstream of the can is pretty much fixed maybe I can loosen the can bracket and get some twist play on that side of the union. Worth a try.

Post by **abscate** » 29 Jun 2014, 15:59

If I remember it right one line connects with a large union nut, the other with the o-ring slip joint requiring the AC tool. Release union nut, unbolt can from bracket, twist away.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 29 Jun 2014, 19:01

JimBee wrote:I'm also thinking the garter spring needs to be lubed before trying to work the tool in there.

The spring isn't made of stainless steel and it does rust. I PB blaster the crap out of them and that seems to help. The Sawzall is an option, just don't cut off the pipe nipple that goes into the accumulator, it sets in there further than you would think.

...Lee

Post by **JimBee** » 04 Jul 2014, 12:13

Has anybody tried this quick release tool for the garter spring type union?

https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywor ... mi5zhb7y_e

Post by **abscate** » 06 Jul 2014, 20:18

You don't need to have the tool in place to put torque on the joint. The spring keeps the flared end in the joint from moving axially. Grab the two with good quality vice grips and get then moving in rotation, then pop your tool in, get the spring expanded, and pull them apart.

Jim..don't worry about being rough on these fittings. They are well made and will take some tough handling.

On edit...sorry for the senile moment...I'm repeating myself

Post by **abscate** » 07 Jul 2014, 04:52

Am I repeating myself? Stop me if you've heard this one....