1999 V70r - Rebuilt head installed/now codes P0014 P0134

robbcolecrabtree · Post by **robbcolecrabtree** » 26 Jul 2014, 21:21

So I installed a beautifully rebuilt head from Clearwater and everything went smoothly. I checked the timing to make sure it is perfect. The car originally had a blown head gasket, and when I removed the head, it had a few cracks in it, so that is where the rebuilt head came in. I did all the Stage 0 goodies while I was in there as well.

I finally got the whole car put back together, but now I am throwing a P0014 and P0134 code. I drove the car, and it seems a bit sluggish, but idles decent. It certainly isn't purring like a kitten, but it is not too bad. I took the VVT solenoid off and cleaned it out really well, and it has a brand new gasket in there. I already changed the oil once after putting about 5 miles on it to help clean out any leftover coolant in the oil/block from the blown head gasket.

I have done a good amount of research on the two codes, so I took the timing belt off and reinstalled again to make sure it is perfectly lined up. It is a paint with the VVT, but it is dead on, so I feel pretty confident that it is not the timing belt or timing marks that are the issue. I am not sure really where to go from here.

I have seen where others have had this problem in the past, and I am hoping that someone can chime in with a good solution, or at least some way to track the issue down. I cannot drive the vehicle much as I need to do emissions testing to even register it. I mainly just go up and down my road, and right on the highway to get up to 50 real quick, then the codes come back.

The exhaust also smells a little rich as well. Any help or at least a direction to move forward would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. This site helped out tons when doing all the work to the car.

Post by **Matty Moo** » 27 Jul 2014, 04:45

When you did the timing did go manually turn the crank pulley forward 90 degrees and then back before doing it?

robbcolecrabtree · Post by **robbcolecrabtree** » 27 Jul 2014, 09:20

No I did not. The crankshaft was all lined up with it's mark, and I had the head completely off, so when I put the new cams in, I did it the way that VADIS and all the tutorials described. The intake cam was easy, and the exhaust cam, although a pain, was dead on too. I put my cam lock tool on, put a T55 in the VVT hub and rotated the hub clockwise to it's limit. The exhaust cam gear then lined up with the timing marks, which was right where the marks were on the gear from the original bolts before I put the new head on.

I am not sure if I need to replace the VVT solenoid or the Cam sensor, but those things are a little spendy, so I am trying to either diagnose which one exactly it is, or find out what I did wrong with something else in the timing.

As for rotating the crank, do I do that with the belt on and then do the timing a third time?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 27 Jul 2014, 09:42

You need to set the preload on the CVVT. Was the CVVT hub ever removed from the original camshaft? If not you can simply hand crank the engine to the timing marks, continue clockwise 90 degrees, and then back counterclockwise to the marks. Remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprockets and as you thread the belt back on reset the outer sprocket mark to the timing mark. Reset the tension and give it a couple fo cranks clockwise back to the marks. The bolts in the slots on the CVVT sprocket should not be at either end of the range. They may not be exactly centered in the slots but they must not be at either limit.

If the CVVT hub was removed from the camshaft the only way to set things back is to use a cam adjustment tool and the procedure is a bit more involved.

...Lee

robbcolecrabtree · Post by **robbcolecrabtree** » 27 Jul 2014, 11:55

The CVVT hub was removed as I received new camshafts when I got the rebuilt head. Perhaps I put the hub on incorrectly. I marked where the hub was when the camshaft was properly lined up, and put the hub on the new camshaft in the same spot. When I rotate the hub to add the preload, it lines up correctly with the timing marks, so I assumed I put it on correctly. Perhaps I was mistaken. I will do some research on installing the hub, but any advice would be greatly appreciated. I know you (Ozark Lee) are the master at this, and your tutorial was one that I followed when in stalling the timing belt. Thank you for your help so far, and hopefully you have some good info on getting that hub in correctly.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 27 Jul 2014, 12:07

To get it correct you will need to use a cam locker tool since the CVVT hub isn't keyed in any way. How did you torque down the monster torx screw on CVVT hub? It needs to be torqued to 95 ft lbs as I recall and I could only do that with the cam adjustment tool.

When I get back home this evening I will post the procedure for you but you need to set the timing mark one tooth off once the cam is locked and then, after removing the locker tool, crank it over by hand and reset the timing mark on the sprocket.

...Lee

robbcolecrabtree · Post by **robbcolecrabtree** » 27 Jul 2014, 12:19

To torque the bolt down, I had 89 ft lbs, and I locked the cam in the back. I snugged the bolt down as tight as I could, verified that the sprocket lined up with the timing marks when the hub is loaded, and then torqued the hub bolt down. To align the sprocket to the VVT hub, I marked where they were mated when they were installed on the old cam, and then lined those marks up on the new cam.

The hub torqued just fine (I have a 30 inch long torque wrench for leverage). I verified that when I load the hub, it goes right to the timing mark and goes back just fine. When it goes back, it is about 1 to 1.5 teeth off of the timing mark, and when adding the load, it is dead on.

I have no problem doing that again, but I feel like it lined up just fine, and all the timing marks are right on. I have no idea if it had a problem before as I bought it with a blown headgasket/cracked head.

Also I should note, to flush all the crap out of the engine, I just put regular 5W30 in the engine. NOT synthetic as I have read some recommend. Could that be causing an issue with the VVT and causing the P0014 and P0134 codes to be thrown? I can get a used VVT solenoid and Cam sensor for reasonable prices, but don't want to replace if they are not needed.

robbcolecrabtree · Post by **robbcolecrabtree** » 27 Jul 2014, 12:32

This thread has a link from a MOD on the bottom to removing and installing the CVVT hub. This is identical to what I did. The only thing I did not do was rotate a quarter turn past and then back. That would just remove the preload from the hub though wouldn't it? That way you can take the belt off without it snapping back. Perhaps that quarter turn does more than I thought. I just don't want to tear it open again to do that extra quarter turn if it does not really matter.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =9&t=39268

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 27 Jul 2014, 13:16

The quarter turn does matter. Keep in mind that the sprocket and the hub are two different pieces and the sprocket rotates, to a limited extent, independent from the hub and thus the camshaft.

The position of the sprocket on the CVVT hub when you torqued down the center bolt on the hub is important and you may or may not have been lucky. The factory procedure is as clear as mud but once you get your head around the difference between the sprocket and the hub it makes sense.

The procedure you need to follow is the one in the second file that Justin posted.

...Lee

robbcolecrabtree · Post by **robbcolecrabtree** » 27 Jul 2014, 13:23

I do understand how the hub and sprocket are separate, and left the sprocket loose from the hub when I torqued the hub down. Once the hub was torqued, and I was lining the belt up, the sprocket was in the correct location for the timing marks once I added the preload to the hub itself. It was actually in the same location as the marks I made when it was on the previous cam. I guess if the quarter turn still matters, I will take it all apart and try again. What exactly does that quarter turn do that makes all the difference? Just want to know out of curiosity before I start tearing the whole thing apart again to get my cam lock tool on the back and take apart the front to get at the timing components.