98 s70 getting timing belt on - mech tensioner

Post by **mecheng** » 11 Aug 2014, 20:06

I'm having the hardest time getting the timing belt on with the mechanical tensioner.
I swing the arm on the tensioner to the right to give it slack, wrap over all belts except exhaust cam but the damn belt doesn't fit over the pulley. In the fcp video he made it look so easy. I had no problem with the hydraulic tensioner on the 850.

What am I doing wrong?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 11 Aug 2014, 20:37

Are you sure you have it all the way on at the bottom of the crankshaft? It can trick you.

There isn't tons of room to get the belt on like there is with the hydraulic tensioner but certainly enough to slide the belt on all of the pulleys. The tensioner comes out of the box in its most relaxed position and you shouldn't adjust the tensioner at all before the belt is on.

...Lee

Post by **mecheng** » 12 Aug 2014, 06:30

I took a break and tried again and I was able to get it on: just barely: they could have made the belt slightly longer, it is a fing bitch to get it on. A little trick is to use a screwdriver to swing the tensioner arm, otherwise it burns a hole in my finger. I made sure the bolt on the tensioner was loose, I only had it finger tight originally but it was fighting me I guess and this time I was able to get it on.

Those sneeky cam pulleys like to move, especially the exhaust cam. They are difficult to move by hand so I didn't think they would budge but they did and I had to remove the belt. I cut a 2x4 and gently wedged it between the cams. Maybe I'll get the IPD holder for next time
Running perfectly now, no noise.

Couple of questions:

1)Can you reuse the WP bolts or do they have some sort of sealant
2)Do you need to put gasket sealer on the WP gasket. If so why?

Post by **precopster** » 12 Aug 2014, 07:36

I've re used the WP bolts by wrapping some plumber's thread tape on the location the thread tape was originally placed. It's used because some of the thread holes are not captive and exit from the rear of the WP housing.

I've used JUST sealant, sealant and gasket & finally just a gasket and all WPs are still not leaking.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 12 Aug 2014, 07:39

The water pumps I buy (Hepu) come with new bolts so I never have reused them. That said, it shouldn't be a problem. The bolts do come with a coating but it is basically Loctite Green.

I do put a thin coat of blue RTV on the gasket but that is more to hold it in place than it is to seal it.

...Lee

Post by **mecheng** » 12 Aug 2014, 09:27

Does the mating block have guide pins to hold the WP gasket? So do you really neet the RTV?
From the factory, they do not use RTV correct?

I'm not crazy about loctite especially in hard to access areas for bolts, I want to be able to remove it in the future so I will try the plumbers tape.

Thanks

Post by **erikv11** » 12 Aug 2014, 09:54

Yep, there are two mating pins and nothing on the gasket from the factory. It is just for convenience, the gasket tends to fall off.

Post by **erikv11** » 12 Aug 2014, 09:55

Oh and on the water pump bolts I always just re-use them as is, they will have a little goop on them.

Post by **mecheng** » 12 Aug 2014, 11:13

Ok thanks everyone! Some key advice, when you want to give up swear a bit it helps, take a break you will come up with different solutions.

Post by **phat78ta** » 12 Aug 2014, 16:22

There is a small nub on the oil pump behind the crank pulley that has a rubber sleeve over it. It gave me holy fits trying to get my TB back on. Sounds like you are having the same issue. Feel behind the crank pulley on the bottom right and see if the rubber piece has slid out towards the pulley. That is what happened to me. Slide it back, make sure the belt gets past the nub, and you should be golden.