1999 v70xc Can I weld the oil pan & not hurt the electronics

flyingd · Post by **flyingd** » 22 Sep 2014, 13:42

The oil drain plug has been rounded and I can't get it off. So I am thinking of welding a piece of metal to it so I can loosen the bolt. My question is, Can I weld without hurting the electronics of the engine? Or am I going to have to take the oil pan off.

Post by **timmybdaddyof3** » 22 Sep 2014, 14:01

disconnect both terminals of the battery and let it fully discharge (we usually either let it sit for an hour or with both leads disconnected touch them together for a few seconds)

Ground your welder as close to where you are working as possible.
If you are really paranoid you can pull the computer, but the only time we do that is if its a custom chip or something, and still its a bit unnecessary.

Have you tried an easy out socket, or drilling a small pilot hole into the plug and then running an easy out bit into it?

Many ways to skin this cat

flyingd · Post by **flyingd** » 22 Sep 2014, 14:06

There is a "box" in the way that leaves only a couple of inches at best between the box and the bolt. So I haven't drilled anything yet, because there is no room for the drill. I have not heard of an easy out socket before....Does it go on the outside of the rounded bolt?

Post by **cn90** » 22 Sep 2014, 14:19

If you want to play it safe, remove both the ECU and TCM (if you have Auto Trans).
It takes about 30 sec to remove both units.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 22 Sep 2014, 14:21

Just take the "box" off. All it is is a vibration dampener, there isn't anything in it except a block of rubber. That should give you much more room.

...Lee

Post by **dosbricks** » 22 Sep 2014, 14:24

flyingd wrote: I have not heard of an easy out socket before....Does it go on the outside of the rounded bolt?

Yes.

Post by **timmybdaddyof3** » 22 Sep 2014, 14:25

Easy out sockets are basically sharp bevel or threading in reverse....you rachet it onto the head in the reverse direction and just keep going....it will start biting and compressing whats left of the head until it can go no further, then it starts unscrewing what ever it just bit into.

The bits are the same principle, reverse thread, so as you drill into a stuck item (you are drilling in reverse), the bit is actually pulling forward, and when it can go no further, that torque gets applied to whatever is being drilled into

They are a life saver

Post by **j-dawg** » 22 Sep 2014, 14:38

cn90 wrote:If you want to play it safe, remove both the ECU and TCM (if you have Auto Trans).
It takes about 30 sec to remove both units.

yep. i unplugged the ECU on my MR2 before welding new sections into the rockers on both sides. put it all back together when i was done and it ran like a top.

i've heard that if you attach the ground clamp so as to have a bearing between the electrode and the clamp you may arc across those bearings and damage them, but i would suspect that's only true if the bearing is very close to either the clamp or electrode. nonetheless, for the electronics it seems smart to clamp as close as possible.

Post by **precopster** » 22 Sep 2014, 15:05

On the 99 and plus cars to remove the engine and trans computers you'll need an ECU removal tool. You may want to factor that into the cost.

Post by **timmybdaddyof3** » 22 Sep 2014, 15:40

that was my thought as well - if it was pre-99 i would say lift the handle and call it a day