Looking for a full description of rear subframe removal on 2000 XC70 AWD from start to finish. Every thread I find ends with either "I cut a hole in my floor", or "I was able to lower enough for fuel pump work". I need a description beyond this, full job/R&R rear subframe. In removing the rear subframe to get to a major leak on the top right of fuel tank, the FRONT bolts on the subframes, both broke off
All the bolts mentioned on the Alex Fiehl Youtube video have been removed(the 4 trailing arm bolts per side, the VC bolt, and the 3 subframe bolts per side-this includes the 2 broken ones), however the subframe is still not coming free, seems hung up at towards the front(yes the single front bolt for the viscous coupling is out). I would think the upper rear shock bolts must be removed as to drop the frame the shocks would need to be free. What other major thing am I forgetting?? Brake lines, fuel lines, elec lines, etc, I will get later, I am talking major mounting points etc. The frame MUST come out now to remove the 2 front subframe bolts that are broken off and clean out the threads on all of those(I believe road salt/grime gets into these bolts as they were covered in almost concrete like residue). I am now committed to this job, or else trash or part out an otherwise great car. If no help or guidance comes along, I WILL get the sub frame out, and WILL document this horrible job beyond the normal fuel tank issues where all roads seem to stop. Please, if you have pulled a rear subframe completely out of a P80 AWD car, chime in!!!!!
Ok, got it sorted out, but FYI for all.
1. Rear shocks mounts are actually part of subframe, no need to remove shock nut at top. Make sure you mark the allen bolts on the drive shaft, and mark the drive shaft to Viscous Coupling. I marked with punch and hammer, and wrote on it. Supposedly, these are balanced, so be careful during this process. No need to remove driveshaft, just remove 6 allen head bolts and let it dangle. Make sure to loosen the brake lines(left side under car) and the fuel lines(right side under car) all the way to where they turn up to motor.
2. Rear subframe was loose, but all the corrosion between subframe and chassis rails was holding it together. I sprayed a ton of Liquid Wrench between these two, let it soak, then gently (as can be!!) ran my air hammer with a wedge bit where the front bolts were broken off, slowly began to relax and then came off on one side, then moved to other side, did the same, and right side came down. So, moral of story, spray a lot of lube between subframe and the chassis rails.
3. When this nut-roll is done and the broken bolts are out, I will grease the crap out of the subframe rail with anti seize or heavy grease, and the new subframe bolts will have anti seize on them too. I am sure I will be back in here if I keep the car(and plan too) and do not want to deal with this again.
4. You do need to remove the mufflers (if you are going to remove the subframe) as they are attached to the subframe. So just plan on that little addition to the work. Grease the crap out of the rubber mounts on those so it will be easier in the future to remove them, and use anti seize on all exhaust bolts. I am going to spray some sort of paint on the mufflers to try to keep external corrosion down. I replaced these 2 years ago and they already look like crap. They are only available from dealer(unless someone knows an aftermarket source) and they are expensive. when these go, I will have an exhaust artist I know(he is truly that) weld up a set of replacements that are cheaper.
5. If you are going this far on all of this, spray some stop rust and undercoating on seams of body under the car etc. I found a lot of rusty spots(no perforation), and while everything is out, I am going to clean it all up etc. My fuel lines etc are in a crap state, so going to recondition all of those too.
6. This is the one and only 1st Gen XC70 I will ever own. Just not worth it. They are becoming very rare and they are very complicated and parts are getting hard to get. Take my advice and stick with a normal 850, and run winter tires on it in winter, snow chains if it is really bad. My other front wheel drive Volvos do fine with no AWD and the amount of work and maintenance that you have to put into these(AWD models) when they break is not worth it.
7. I bought this car from the original owner for $1500, and he had every service record(and he only took it to the dealer!!) in its entire history. This is the only reason I am keeping the car. Probably the only 1st Gen XC70 with a complete service history and an owner that took care of it, money no object. Again my warning to prospective buyers, buy front wheel drive only and stay away from these AWD cars unless you are a professional mechanic(I am formerly that-Saab, Audi, Land Rover, BMW certified tech) or have a lot of money to throw at it to keep it working properly.