96 850 - repair radiator with JB Weld?

T64me · Post by **T64me** » 28 Nov 2014, 16:06

It is the wrong time of year for an expensive repair. The radiator on my 96 850 leaking up by the upper radiator. I wish it was just the hose - that would be a cheap easy fix. It is leaking where the plastic side of the radiator meets the main core - right at the top. I was thinking about putting a bead of JB Weld right where the two meet (after cleaning the area with lacquer thinner). My guess is this would not hold but I have been amazed by JB Weld before. Any input?

skloon · Post by **skloon** » 28 Nov 2014, 16:49

I tried with a heater core- the expansion and contraction caused it to leak within a couple of days I needed time to get the new core so not so bad but I wouldn't count on it working too well

Post by **oragex** » 28 Nov 2014, 17:28

Maybe try with some epoxy? the one with two tubes to mix. I too don't think JB would hold bc I don't think it melts the plastic, but you can give it a try

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 28 Nov 2014, 18:50

You can slow it down but you can't stop it. The auto parts stores sell an epoxy like patch but I have never been able to make a permanent repair with it. It will slow the leak and you might get another month out of it before the patch fails completely.

...Lee

Post by **rspi** » 28 Nov 2014, 20:11

I find good radiators in the junk yard all the time. Seen a Nissens with a 3 year old date on it today. If you can't afford a good new one, find a $45 used one.

Post by **j-dawg** » 28 Nov 2014, 22:19

Try JB Water Weld. It can bond when wet. Stick a patch over the seam with it, rather than just using it as a putty. Clean and scuff the surfaces well before applying the JB Weld. Do the repair while the engine is warm and use plenty of extra sticky stuff.

I considered this exact path and bought the JB Water Weld when I had a leaky radiator. In the end I couldn't find the exact location of the crack and had to drive a road trip, so I just bought a new Nissens. Worth every penny, but it's kind of a crappy job and the weather, schedule, and finances don't always line up right.

Post by **tryingbe** » 28 Nov 2014, 23:03

Don't bother, it'll won't hold. Tried it and failed when I was young and foolish.

JeffHicks · Post by **JeffHicks** » 29 Nov 2014, 16:23

The only success I've had with anything like this has been SilverSeal or AlumiSeal Radiator StopLeak - or some such product. Stay away from the stuff that has big black clumps. Those can cause massive problems.

I've never "fixed" a radiator with either of those products, but I have bought myself some time. Who knows - you might get lucky too.

Post by **tryingbe** » 29 Nov 2014, 17:47

JeffHicks wrote:The only success I've had with anything like this has been SilverSeal or AlumiSeal Radiator StopLeak

Those stop leak products clogged up the heater core, leave residue in the engine and then clogs up the new radiator.

JeffHicks · Post by **JeffHicks** » 29 Nov 2014, 18:02

tryingbe wrote:
JeffHicks wrote:The only success I've had with anything like this has been SilverSeal or AlumiSeal Radiator StopLeak
Those stop leak products clogged up the heater core, leave residue in the engine and then clogs up the new radiator.

That could be. However, in 30+ years of using them on occasion, I've never had a problem.

But to be clear - again - I have never used the "Gunk" or any of the sealer than contains the big black tar balls. Just the Silver Seal or AlumaSeal.