1999 Volvo V70 AWD with awd issues

Post by **rspi** » 05 Dec 2014, 21:32

I'm picking up a V70 AWD to give to my mom, due to the fact that she lives in the hilly Pittsburgh area and I believe a awd Volvo would be better than what she is now driving.

At any rate, the car is being dumped due to issues with the awd system and I know nothing about it other than one needs to make sure they keep balanced, evenly worn tires on the early generation of these vehicles.

The little that I do know is that there is a couple of issues these systems have. 1) Worn shaft ends. 2) Bad VC which I believe is at the rear axle. 3) Worn beveled gear, which is on the back side of the motor and rare to go bad.

I did read this and another thread: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=35820

Below is a picture of what a mechanic told the PO what was wrong/bad. To me it looks like the front of the shaft is bad. Am I correct? Would getting a replacement shaft cure this and put this car in good standing for 50,000 miles or so? I live to far away from my aging mother to deal with this stuff once I drop the car off.

: Volvo awd shaft issue.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 05 Dec 2014, 22:48

It is tough to tell from the picture. Even a good CV on the prop shaft tends to look bad and you can't really check it for slop while it is installed. Pulling the prop shaft will likely cure any bad vibrations but it doesn't necessarily mean that just the prop shaft is bad since the VC and the transfer case gets unloaded when the shaft is removed. In most cases though, so long as the car wasn't improperly towed, the prop shaft is the "usual suspect".

...Lee

Post by **scot850** » 05 Dec 2014, 23:34

This has been covered several times before, but this is my view of it:

1) Get underneath and check for oil leaking from the rear of the angle gear (bevel). If it is dry it is a bonus. Doesn't mean it is good as they can have 2 other issues. The drive from the trans to the angle gear unit can fail, and if you grab the rear shaft of the angle gear, try to move it side-to-side. If it moves, then the rear bearing has gone.

2) Prop-shaft - generally 2 issues. If the front bearing has movement when you try to turn by hand, then it needs to be remove ASAP before it causes the angle gear rear bearing/seal to fail. Also check the center bearing and the bearing carrier rubber donut as the perish and fail allowing it to clunk about. Rear bearing tends to be less of an issue. If it needs re-building - Colorado Drive-shafts!

3) VC unit - Front (nose) bearing can fail and as it does it causes a whoosh-whoosh noise. There is also a rubber mount at the front of the VC housing and they fail with age and cause a clunk when gears change or you go from forward to reverse.

4) VC itself. Check for leaks. If car has been sitting for some time, try to drive it gently. When they sit, the silicon fluid inside can settle and allow the clutch plated to dry out and fail. Do a few slow donuts once the car has been driven for a while, turn both directions. If there is a problem you might get some locking up or snatching of the VC unit. Sometimes with gentle regular use it may settle down

5) Rear diff seals - prone to leaking from rear axle shaft seals - bugger to do. I'm going to have to tackle this soon on mine.

6) Rear axles and bearings. Not had muck issue with these, but should still check.

Finally, also check the e-brake cables are good as they are also a swine to do. When I get time and finish putting my car back together I will post a how-to replace and adjust.

When these cars are good they are great. Loved to hate both of mine as they have cost me a lot of money to maintain and improve. Hope you have nothing but blue skies with your mum's new car!

Neil.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 06 Dec 2014, 00:42

Pull the shaft, measure the diameter of the front CV
with the burnt out boot, call Dave at Colorado Driveshaft.
They can mail one out and you can swap it yourself.
I spent about 100 bucks when the cat cooked mine and
it was no big deal to replace in the driveway. Just like new!

Granted, there may be other issues with the AWD, but for
about a C note, you can find out without too much trouble.

Post by **rspi** » 06 Dec 2014, 05:18

The car has 205,000 on the clock and from what I was told, it was taken on a lot of trips from ABQ to Denver. So I'm guessing a lot of highway miles. Maybe 60%. Not sure if that means anything, but looking at a lot of service records, I seen no documentation on drive train work.

Sounds like I should drive it a little before pulling the shaft? Try to feel and hear what is going on?

Post by **mecheng** » 06 Dec 2014, 06:02

Have you thought about sticking with fwd and getting snow tires, it only costs the price of the rims really. Make sure car has abs and tracs and you are safe for all weather. I've never gotten stuck with my Dunlop snows

Post by **rspi** » 06 Dec 2014, 07:22

LOL, I guess that is an option, however people that live in hilly snow covered locations will tell you that having 4 wheels pulling for you is a lot better and safer than having a good set of snow tires on a fwd vehicle.

Oh, I posted the picture for help identifying the part.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 06 Dec 2014, 11:46

AWD > FWD !
Abso-frickin-lutely NO comparison.

But add some Nokian Hakkapelitta studded snows
and you really have it goin' on.

IMHO...

Post by **cn90** » 06 Dec 2014, 13:19

Cheapest is to convert to FWD and buy a set of snow tires.
Of course AWD is better but FWD + snow tires is a good combo.

Post by **scot850** » 06 Dec 2014, 16:07

Or even do what I am planning on our next car, and buy a set of the new Nokian ALL Weather tires. These have been improved over the last 14 years, and work in all conditions well. This save on the wheel/tire swaps and the storage and spare rims!

Neil.