'98 V70 - Decision Time -- Really Long Post, Sorry

Post by **E Showell** » 12 Dec 2014, 02:40

So, after putting more than 210k miles on my '98 V70 and replacing the engine, I may actually be looking to sell her. Here's the deal. I have become aware of a 2000 V70 SE 4WD with 86,000 miles that the original owner is looking to part with. I am currently second in line for a crack at it.

Here's what I know about the 2000 SE: It is a one owner car, dealer serviced from new. I am told a complete, or fairly complete service history is available for it. It has been garage kept. Currently it needs two O2 sensors and an ETM replacement. Seller's agent (son of owner) does not know whether the timing belt has been replaced, but if not, it is certainly overdue for time, if not due on mileage. Seller says it is a non-turbo, 4WD, but my retired factory trained Volvo mechanic said all SEs were turbos -- haven't seen the car or a picture, but it is easy enough to look under the hood. . . Ask is currently $2,500 which seems reasonable assuming condition is as described, even with its known faults.

What I know about my '98 V 70 is that it is a non-turbo model with front wheel drive. It is also a rare 5 speed manual. It has a couple things I'd like to take care of presently -- namely, the dash display is giving me a strobe light show and the door chime stays on sometimes after the key has been removed suggesting the need for a new ignition tumbler -- c. $295 and an hour of my time to fix. No big deal, I've done the replacement on an 850 before.

There is a rust spot on the driver's side front fender. I have a painted-to-match fender to replace the existing one with, but it is too cold to do the swap now and I figure I'll let the existing fender deal with this winter's road salt -- so that goes on in the spring. While I do that, I'll sand the front bumper, fill any small nicks and paint with color matched special bumper paint and clear coat (already on hand). Since I'll already have the front bumper off, I'll also remove the passenger side front fender and install the side marker light kit that I already have on hand.

I have the dreaded dashboard squeak and the filler piece between the dash and windshield is cracked in two places. I can remove and repair the piece and fix the dash mounts, but if I am getting in there, I might as well replace the AC components, which, as far as I know, are all original. AC works now, but there's a leak in the system so that an annual recharge only really works for about 2.5 months -- which is, fortunately, about all I need it to work for, so I never tackled replacing any A/C components. If I have the dash apart, I'll probably do an evaporator, etc. replace simply to save the labor aspect of an A/C job. The passenger side auto door lock function has stopped working. I have not attended to it and may not.

Those are the only things that are really "wrong" with the car at this point, although I did detect a faint belt/bearing scratch the other day. My mechanic took a listen and said it wasn't anything that was bad enough/loud enough to diagnose after putting a long bladed screw driver to various components and giving a listen.

The car drives perfectly. I've kept up with the maintenance and done about what you'd expect to have to do along the way for a car of this age. Specifically, when the engine was replaced with a 110,000 mile used example at c. 241K miles, the rear main seal on the used engine was replaced and a new clutch and associated components were fitted. I also changed the transmission oil at that time using the Volvo replacement fluid (quite pricey I might add -- my mechanic said it was probably overkill since he said the transmission oil that came out was perfect and he wouldn't have swapped it on his own car). All timing components and water pump were renewed as well. I did a complete suspension redo with Bilstein Touring struts and rear shocks at around 180K miles. Both front axles have been replaced. There is a newish leather seat cover on the driver's seat. I replaced the sunroof panel with a good used example since the original was rusting around the frame. All dash lightbulbs have ben replaced. There is a rebuilt ABS module in place. Brake jobs have been part of regular maintenance. I use Mann oil filters and Mobil 1 high mileage 10W30 for oil changes. Both O2 sensors are fairly new as is the exhaust system (aftermarket) including catalytic converter. I replaced the starter a while ago with a rebuilt unit and the battery is new from this past May. The passenger side (front) lower engine mount was replaced as was the transmission buckle mount and the upper torque rod bushing. I could use a new oil filler cap to eliminate dripping on the cam cover. Forgot to mention that I did a full PCV service. A balloon on the dipstick will not inflate. Also forgot to mention I did the heater core a while back. The rear tailgate struts were also replaced.

I added a cross-country roof rack and have a Volvo factory trailer hitch (it's quite heavy duty) partly installed -- haven't gotten to the wiring yet.

The only systems I haven't really had to dig into thus far have been A/C (which means the compressor is still original -- and so far, it isn't acting up) and steering rack/pump (no leaks) or other performance quirks as of yet. I change the cabin air filter regularly -- about every 15,000 miles or so, to save the evaporator. I also believe the alternator is original and currently mileage is 283K plus.

The SAS system is still in place and I haven't had problems with it yet. also haven't had J-hose/evap canister issues. Fuel filter was replaced when the engine was swapped. I have never done anything to the fuel injectors, but about twice a year I run a bottle of Techron through the fuel system. I dean the throttle body probably every other oil change -- which I do at about 7,500 - 10,000 mile intervals. Given the use of Mobil 1, I see no need to do them more frequently.

I will admit that, like Odysseus and the Sirens, I am being drawn to the SE by its quite low mileage, but I am not sure I want the added complication and expense of a 4wd car (and I don't really need the 4wd -- perhaps to get up my driveway, but that's about it). If it is a turbo as well, I am not sure I want the added maintenance/expense either, as I have never found the power of the NA 5 speed to be inadequate (some of you boy racers will surely differ, but I can only speak from my own experience). If I were to be offered the SE, there is no question I'd have to sell the '98 (or find a new place to sleep) for it to make any sense.

So basically, I've attempted to keep up with regular maintenance (and, fortunately, thanks to all of you on this forum, I have managed to be able to do quite a bit of my own work and save a boatload over the years) and have a list of small faults which need to be addressed, with perhaps some larger things looming in the distance due to age/mileage that have not yet presented themselves as systemic failures -- i.e., air con/steering.

Any opinions/suggestions out there? Looking for the collective wisdom of the forum. May be a case of the grass is always greener . . . And honestly, other than the annoying dashboard squeaks that sound like I am hosting a New Year's Eve party for a tribe of resident mice, my current ride is very comfortable and drives really nicely.

Post by **abscate** » 12 Dec 2014, 05:19

Evan (fixed, sorry)

What about the classic decision deferral? Pick up the SE, take old faithful off the road and make the dash repair and other stuff on the V70. You can take 6 months to figure out if the SE is your cup of tea.

That manual will keep calling you back, though. Winter driving in upstate NY always reminds me of why it is sooooo nice.

Post by **E Showell** » 12 Dec 2014, 05:25

Steven -- It's Evan, not Ed, and time/space/funds won't permit deferral. May be a moot point anyway, since I am not first in line . . .

I do like the manual, but since I have continued playing competitive soccer into middle age and may have a slight left meniscus tear, the idea of an automatic has some appeal. I am also concerned about a mileage penalty from both an auto and the increased weight of 4wd. Right now, I am getting 25+mpg in stop and go with 89 octane fuel.

Post by **JRL** » 12 Dec 2014, 06:19

Evan
A 2000 V70SE is FWD and a non turbo ONLY
The only 2000 AWDs in the US are XCs, so the seller is either lying or has no idea what he or she is selling so beware.

Regarding your car and your dash, that broken piece at the windshield is part of the LOWER dash and is not a separate part.
To fix that you need an entire lower dash

Post by **E Showell** » 12 Dec 2014, 06:38

Jim-- That's great news. If it is FWD and non-turbo, it would be more attractive to me, although perhaps not to others.

The dash on my car will, no doubt, be a pain to fix, which is why I'd consider doing A/C components at the same time.

Suspect seller doesn't have all the details since it seems like he is selling the car for his M-I-L. Didn't get the feeling he was being evasive when he volunteered to get a full service history printed out from the servicing dealership, but is definitely not his car.

Post by **erikv11** » 12 Dec 2014, 08:02

I have maintained a handful of these now and I will say the turbos definitely have more, nagging service hassles, I agree with that.

A 2000 is not a big upgrade in terms of newness. If you were driving an 850 I would say jump on it. So even though it has under 90k, it is going to fall apart about as quickly as your high mileage 98. Are the dashes any better on a 2000, or same problem? It is definitely much worse on the 98s than on an 850. The suspension will all be due soon if it hasn't already been done, that would be a big factor for me. Fuel economy will be less with the auto, nobody gets more than 20 in stop and go traffic. The NA auto will feel slower than the NA manual, from what I read.

Post by **E Showell** » 12 Dec 2014, 08:50

Erik -- To be honest, the big lure to me was significantly lower mileage. It is a chance to almost halve the amount of miles on the engine of my ride. As for suspension, yep. I'd do it in the 2000 somewhere around 120-150 K miles, which for me, means another two years. Plus, I'd be redoing the suspension - again - on my '98 at around 300K -- or in another year, so it is basically a wash as far as suspension redo goes.

Post by **j-dawg** » 12 Dec 2014, 10:20

Maintenance on the turbo cars sucks, yo. Every time something's hard to access, I find that it's a piece of turbo-specific equipment getting in the way. The engine bay in these cars was designed for easy access...and then they designed the turbo system.

Regarding your options, I'm inclined to present the devil-you-know argument. 86 kilomiles is not a lot, but if your car has been well-maintained you know exactly what will need replacement or service and when. At 86k, the "new" car is getting to the point where it'll need a lot of the same things replaced as your current wagon. Buying it is just putting off what you're going to have to do anyway, only you'll have to discover all of it the hard way.

That third pedal, too. Personally, I'd rather cause crippling, extremely painful, and totally irreversible damage to my body than drive automatic, but I can only speak for me.

Post by **E Showell** » 12 Dec 2014, 11:50

Plus -- the auto is my least favorite color (green) or perhaps second least favorite to brown, whereas the current ride is at worst nondescript with a rather drab grayish silver.

Post by **erikv11** » 12 Dec 2014, 12:15

Do you still have the 99 NA that is in your sig? I missed that point. That certainly gives you a point of reference, you are talking about getting basically the same car.

I will agree that the price is very right on the 00. But you may have a hard time getting more than like $1k for your present ride, as worthy as it is of more, simply because of mileage.

Is it the dark green? I like that one!