Today's Project Tailgate Lock brace

Post by **plumsmooth** » 18 Feb 2015, 07:44

Hatch hasn't closed well in over a year. Thought I'd try a Lock Brace before replacing the Latch itself since it was much less expensive and the rubber washer around the closing post is gone which is why I think it will not make a tight seal.

Anyway, stripped both t40 machine head screws holding it and barely got them out. I was lucky because I did the left one first: I was able to turn the whole brace 90 degrees toward me thereby loosening the right side screw enough to get it out!

Stripping Screws has to be one of the worst encounters as a beginner Volvo mechanic!

Anyway only place I was able to find these is dealership Volvo Parts Store; there must be an equivalent: Anyone know of any. T40 screws do not seem readily available at your Local auto or hardware store!

I measured it 5/16 thick and 3/4 inch long...

MrGruffles · Post by **MrGruffles** » 18 Feb 2015, 11:35

Based on the picture and measurements, I am guessing you need an M8 size (5/16" is roughly 8mm) with coarse (1.25?) thread pitch. I recently lucked out and matched up a metric coarse thread in the specialty license plate bolt bin at my local Ace Hardware. I recommend bringing one of your bolts along to sort through the fastener bins one of those places, though I doubt you will find the same head.

Post by **E Showell** » 18 Feb 2015, 11:41

Frequently, tailgate latching problems in these cars have more to do with the position of the latch on the door side than they do with the condition of the lock brace itself. Sometimes, all that is required is manipulating the catch mechanism on the door with a screw driver.

Post by **plumsmooth** » 18 Feb 2015, 17:49

manipulating the catch mechanism on the door with a screw driver.

I'll look into this but maybe you could elaborate slightly. By manipulation I am unsure what you mean?

Anyway good news and to help the community I should figure out what termed size these are.

But I guess I should make sure they work first. Mostly concerning thread TPI.

However the Volvo Lock Brace screws screwed perfectly into the Screw Plague at my down-the-block building supply store in their bolt section. And we found a match however it was a Allen head and a 1/4 inch longer threading so I added some washers just in case the receiving panel doesn't allow the extra 1/4 inch.... And the Pan head was a bit narrower and the Lock Brace Holes are too wide for these without washers! This is my first improv Screw lesson I guess.

I spent only $2.20 including washers and I have some metric screws that might just do the trick -- find out tomorrow in Daylight...

I'm very glad I was able to get these T40 screws out even after stripping them. The funny thing is after stripping them they look like allen head screws!

Post by **E Showell** » 19 Feb 2015, 08:25

If you look at the catch mechanism in the door, they can stick in the closed and latched position while the rear door is open. This means that there is no slot to accept the latching bar on the body side of the equation. Consequently, the door will not latch when closed, it just stays down and bounces around on the latching bar. If you take a screwdriver the the latch mechanism in the door, you can usually reposition the clasp so that the slot is once again opened up to receive the bar. Hope that's somewhat clearer. Good luck.

Post by **plumsmooth** » 22 Feb 2015, 10:54

I gave in a couple of days ago and just ordered a new latch assembly after the new lock brace failed to resolve the issue. Turns out as i was going to try an install but not knowing how I was searching for a quick tutorial on installing and removing the tailgate latch lock actuator.

Then I reading a post that talked about adjusting the lock brace.
So I got inside and saw that the seal and door were catching way before the lever could reach its final position.

Well I adjusted the lock brace as far back [toward rear] as possible and now my hatch closes consistently getting to the final 'stage'. Here I was thinking I was further destroying my latch, but it turns out the lever was never getting stuck far enough to get it where it needed to go!

Part of me wants to keep the great condition used latch but it seems I do not need it and can return it and get my 50 bucks back... Which would probably be better spent toward something else.

BTW, I also just pulled the seal between the hatch tailgate window and below and I see where all the rust is coming from: There is water trapped inside... I read somewhere about leaving it out which I would like as long as it does not undermine the windows stability?