2003 Volvo XC70 Crank pulley removal

Post by **GBS** » 05 Mar 2015, 23:30

Hey all, so I'm continuing my front cam seal replacement and after last weekends attempt to get the danr crank nut off I was unsuccessful. I tried impact, force, extension, you name it. I resorted to getting the counter hold tool figuring that would be last resort before putting back things and taking it to a shop to get loosened, HATE to do that now that I'm so close....

Anyway, trying to figure out how the counter be used, some instructions says to remove the 4 bolts and take the vibration dampener off while others look like they just put the tool over the 4 heads and hold it that way. Anyone done this and can say which is right?

I got the aux belt off but timing is still on with a rear cam lock. I've also supported the breakerbar with a jack stand and extended past the wheel but before I use the extension I want to make sure I got the counter set up right... any pictures or instructions greatly appreciated.

thanks!

Post by **oragex** » 06 Mar 2015, 07:55

Note sure if this is useful, but if I'm not wrong, or at least on the 2.4 engine, you can slip the new tb on the crank pulley without removing the pulley. there's a 2 screw plastic cover just in front of the pulley that needs removed, then the belt can be slipped on - it's a tight place, takes some twists but it works.

Post by **GBS** » 06 Mar 2015, 11:30

I've seen that but I'm not sure if its just my cam seals leaking or the crank as well, tight quarters in there. Also I'm bothered by this stubborn nut and it feels like its taunting me... I might just do that but I figured I'd give the tool a try but instructions are vague, as mentioned the VIDA says nothing about removing the 4 bolts yet it says to remove balancer... Maybe I'm over complicating this and should just try removing the 4 screws and see what happens but some removed belt and next comment is "do NOT remove belt". Anyone know if the serpentine pulley is held on by the 4 and/or the crank nut? and is the serpentine pulley same as balancer?

Sardine · Post by **Sardine** » 06 Mar 2015, 13:31

Since nobody, who has done it, has replied, I would hazard a guess. I, too, bought the tool but did not use it since the timing belt could be installed without removing the crank pulley. My guess is 1) You take the four bolts off the crank pulley; 2) Use the four bolts to screw the tool onto the crank pulley, making sure that the tool handle will rest on something strong when you try to crack the crank nut; 3) Remove the four bolts and remove the tool.
Like I said, I never did use the tool I bought but that's how I envisioned its use.

Post by **GBS** » 06 Mar 2015, 18:48

That's what I figured too. Gave it a shot and broke three 1/2 cheapo extensions, they were daisy chained. Got a 20 inch long and now broke the counter tool. Got it on eBay so ,aye not the best tool but nervous now. I'll call the guy who did big stuff before and get his opinion but I'm leaning towards getting the belt off with pulley on and doing cam seals and the rest, the hope it's not the crank leaking.

I had a close look as I can but the plastic cover behind pulley looks bigger than 2 screws... For now it's break and a beer, not often I break that many "tools" in 30 minutes.

Post by **xHeart** » 06 Mar 2015, 20:02

This may help a little https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=IK_zH8g8Fow
... And this https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Emsa-w-n93s
T-belt can be replaced without removing the harmonic balancer. If you look up from below, behind the pulley, there are 2 12mm bolts keeping the protective plate. Remove the plate, your will have a football field to route the t-belt.

Sidebar- the balancer nut needs to be soaked overnight. It is extremely tight. Try it another time, or when you replace the oil pump seal.

Replace all components of t-belt job. If hi-mileage, then replace all components of auxiliary belt also.

Have fun.

Post by **chrism** » 06 Mar 2015, 22:41

I don't know if I should admit this....

I've loosened crank damper bolts on two or three occasions by putting a well-fitting socket and breaker bar on it (no extensions) and clicking the starter over. You have to be careful to have the breaker bar resting against some solid structure, keeping in mind that the crank is going to turn clockwise. But it does work quite well. Attempt at your own risk.

BTW - if you decide to leave the damper pulley in place, I believe that plastic cover on the bottom side is held in place by two 10mm hex bolts.

Post by **GBS** » 08 Mar 2015, 21:52

Decided to continue without removing nut, actually pretty easy to get belt off, we'll see about getting it on. Everything went smooth with pump, tensioner, idler and the cover for the VVTs but the big ol VVT bolts proved a challenge with the T55's. Got the intake off fairly "easy" but exhaust needed the pipe extension from earlier. I used a T55 and put a 10mm closed wrench on it and a breaker bar on that. it bent my cheap wrench so I stepped up to a 10mm craftsman and it came off.

I'll try to collect all the tools destroyed for this job, it'll be a nice piece on the garage wall... Certainly thought me that there are different quality tools out there.

Post by **vtl** » 09 Mar 2015, 18:07

I used not very powerful electric impact wrench on 2002 V70 (it can't undo wheel lugs I tightened previously with a breaker bar). It took a few attempts plus some WD40 in between, plus gentle mallet knocking on a balancer. The nut eventually went off. Key here is to break diffusion layer between threads, for that you need a lot of fast sharp torques.

rohran · Post by **rohran** » 10 Mar 2015, 17:37

I've done 3 timing belts in the last month. I use 1200 foot lb impact gun from Mac Tools. Hasn't taken more than 10 seconds to do any one of them. Best 400 bucks I ever spent.