2001 Volvo Xc70 Tricky no start issue after timing.

[hdolyak]

Last night i decided to fix the timing issue i've been having with my volvo for a few day, the timing wasn't off much but since i picked up the cam locking tool i figured id get it fixed. I did what i thought would fix the timing by setting the cams like i've read and done before by lining up the cams and what not. i pieced the car back together and went to start the car it cranked a few times but was a no start so i decided to do some reading and realized i hadn't checked my camshaft timing marks before i put the car back together back apart everything went this time i took off the harmonic balancer to get a better look at the cam marks I used a flywheel puller and took it off but it started to pull off the gears for the timing belt ( it never came all the way off) but i quickly took of the balancer and hammered back on the gear. again aligned everything perfect and put it back together, no heres where my issue begins i the whole time i was adjusting the lower cam lines the car seemed to have compression like it should in spots where it gets hard to turn the crank then eases up but once i got the car back together and went to start it it made a very very subtle pop noise and then the crank shaft spun like it had no compression so i tested moving it by hand and it seemed to be very easy with no hard spots... this is where i'm left with a non starting car i have a feeling i messed it up internally so im just trying to get others opinions before i go and buy a new (used) motor i found for cheap.

I did re check the timing marks and everything seems to be in line
Edits
3/19/15
11:30 am *edit tried to start today but backfired a little
12:55 pm *0 Compression on cyl 1...
Other work i did on the car at the same time that might make a difference:

IPD HD TCV and lines
Cleaned the pcv hose under the manifold that runs to the intake
repaired intercooler boot (until my new one comes)

[SuperHerman]

Worse case scenario you may have bent a valve or more. Hard to tell without having all your timing done right. This is why you always carefully crank it two or more complete turns by hand to check for valve interference. The zero compression scares me.

Better case scenario is your timing is off or you have not connected something. Best plan of attack is to start at the beginning. If you can locate the crank timing mark you can skip removing the harmonic balancer. Yes you can check connections, but as you are unsure at this point, best to start from scratch and then check connections.

I have had the same experience with the crank gear/balancer. No worries, it just puts a little extra stress on the belt, but should cause no damage. To avoid this I watched and adjusted my screws as you are screwing into the gear also and that is why it pulls out. Also, if I recall correctly locking the cams puts the timing pretty close to correct. One of the reasons to lock the cams is to remove the VVT Torx screw which is beastly tight.

Align crank mark, check were cam marks are sitting and if you are close you may be in luck and have had no head damage. At this point I would lock cams and set the cams and VVT per book. You may want to check for TDC and/or pull starter and put in crank lock tool (some use 3/8 6" extension)- so you are purely "by the book" and easier to follow the directions. Couple of VVT setting posts here, so read them. Once you have it all set double check, put it all back together, turn by hand at least 2X, check connections and it should fire up if you suffered no valve damage. As it approaches the timing marks it will become difficult to turn as the valve springs are fighting you - but make sure you sense the difference between valve springs and valve heads hitting the piston.

If you lost some valves you will have to pull the head. It really is not that bad - buy a complete head gasket kit and make sure it is the right one. Many have ordered the "right" kit only to find it is for another Volvo variant. Main problem will be some of the seals are incorrect. I suppose you could check for flatness and if true do the valves yourself otherwise off to a machine shop. I think I was into mine for $250 for everything including new valve seals (which are part of head gasket kit and you should do because it is a minimal added cost). This did not include valve work as mine were not bent. You will need a few special tools, which may have come with your cam lock kit. If not, do some searching and you will find posts of people that fashioned their own - main tool here is the one that allows you to remove the upper head from the lower without wrecking your cams. You can also do all the cam seals while you are at it, and spark plugs. Remember not to use RTV on the head halfs, you need anaerobic sealant - I bought mine from NAPA, made by Permatex.

Good luck.