2000 V70R - What transmission is fitted?

[scot850]

I know my car has a 5 speed auto, but there seems to be conflicting info as to what transmission it is fitted with.

According to several VIN decoders I've seen on Volvo web-sites, the 8th digit should give the transmission type. My car has a '2' as the 8th digit meaning it has a manual trans (M56?). I also have another trans from a same year V70R but it has a '4' as it's 8th digit which is also a manual trans. Clearly there is some rubbish with these decoders, and if the 8th digit is the trans type/model, then why would 2 same year and model cars have different trans, neither of which are the right code?

Can someone tell me if there is an ID somewhere on the trans casing that tells you what it is? I can only find 2 identifiers (no label). 1 is stamped on the top of the trans on a small flange, and the other is stamped on the black casing at the front of the trans.

I know that most folk (probably rightly) say never to install a used trans from this type of car, and in particular the 5 speed auto. I picked up the used trans from a PnP for about $120 CDN ($96 US), not to install but more to learn about how the trans works and how to repair. I plan to use info I find on this web-site to check various aspects of the trans, but how do you know it is good if it is out of the car? Are there any obvious signs to look for? This trans has the end of a drive axle still fitted on the LH side and the collar is in place on the RH side, so no oil other than that in the torque converter has leaked out. When I pilled the dip stick, the oil is still bright red and doesn't smell burnt. Any thoughts?

Neil.

[precopster]

There should be an identifying plate made of aluminium close to where the selector cable is secured. On this plate is the trans type which will be AW55-50SN and there will be a part number also on this plate. Removal of the airbox will make sighting it a lot easier.

Were both transmissions from a 2000 V70R?

[scot850]

Hi Mike,

I'll look for the plate where you suggest and update later. Yes both transmissions were from 5 speed auto 2000 V70 R models. Thanks for the ID, and I will update once I've had a chance to check. The pulled trans is extremely clean, compared to what I'd expect from a high mileage car. Perhaps it was a replacement or rebuild. Front black cover plate is shiny with only a light dust covering. Fluid is bright red. Anyway, reason to pull it was a) it was easy b) it was cheap and most importantly c) to learn about auto trans. I want to learn more about the workings of autos, but local college only does full time mechanic courses. I can't find any where to learn, so will have to do it through on-line course or internet learning.

Neil.

[scot850]

Update, there is a rectangular moulding in the top cover near where you said Mike. On quickly lifting the hood of my car, I was able to see a plate there, but it is mostly obscured by a wiring harness but missing on the pulled trans. I will have to pull the air-intake pipe to get better access to read it. Thought it was really strange there was no ID plate to be seen. Interestingly, there is a number punched into the top of the casing on one flange which may be an identifier for a repair shop perhaps? Who knows!?

Mystery solved!

Many thanks,

Neil.

[jimmy57]

2000 R model auto is the AW55-50SN. The ONLY trans used in 2000 V70R in US
The vin character for trans is not used for trans for US, it is a security digit. If the VIN was forged after theft then the security digit would not agree with the serial number.


Specs for Style:

R 4dr All-wheel Drive Station Wagon

Standard Engine
Engine 261-hp, 2.4-liter I-5 (premium)
Standard Transmission
Transmission 5-speed automatic
261-hp, 2.4-liter I-5 (premium)
Engine liters 2.4
Intercooled turbo Standard
Cylinder configuration I-5
Horsepower 261-hp @ 5,700 rpm
Torque 258 lbs.-ft. @ 2,400 rpm
# of valves 20
Variable valve control Standard
MPI Standard
Recommended fuel premium unleaded
Aluminum cylinder block Standard
Aluminum cylinder head Standard
Ignition type electronic
Engine orientation transverse
Fuel economy city 18 mpg
Fuel economy highway 23 mpg
Fuel tank capacity 17.4 gal.
Powertrain
Block heater Optional
100-amp. alternator Standard
520 CCA battery Standard
Single stainless steel exhaust Standard
Chrome tailpipe Standard
Mode select transmission Standard
Permanently locked hubs Standard
Axle ratio 2.74
Full-time all-wheel drive Standard
All-wheel drive Standard
5-spd automatic
Transmission electronic control Standard
5-speed automatic
Transmission gear ratio (1st) 4.77
Transmission gear ratio (2nd) 2.10
Transmission gear ratio (3rd) 1.96
Transmission gear ratio (4th) 1.32
Transmission gear ratio (5th) 1.02
Transmission gear ratio (reverse) 3.23

[precopster]

Neil if you are beginning to have trans issues the SLT/SLU/SLS solenoids/valve body are the first place to start.

There are kits such as these which are basic solenoid kits with some small improvements for the valve body thrown in. URL: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 55&alt=web

I bought my kits from ctpowertrain.

A more thorough method is to replace the bushings inside each solenoid which can be purchased from Omega Machine in a higher quality non-magnetic metal for around $30 for a set (6 required)
Only problem with doing this is that you require a solenoid splitting tool kit which is also from Omega which costs around $280.

Another approach is to buy fully refurbished solenoids from Sonnax however calibration for line pressure may be an issue. You'll need to identify the solenoids in your trans before purchase as there are 3 types.

Sonnax also have a new comprehensine Zip Kit for the AW55-50SN series which addresses all of the valve body's issues.

Finally you can simply replace the valve body with a fully refurbished one from a rebuilder such as Reamman or VBX. The valve body is located directly behind the black cover and has 6 bolts for removal.

[matthew1]

For anyone following this in the future, here's a handy Volvo transmissions guide.

[scot850]

Thanks to Matthew, jimmy, and Mike for all the information and suggestions. I am currently pondering my way forward, as although I mentioned the trans looked really clean, I noticed what looks like some spider cracks on the top of the casing. Not sure is this was caused by rough removal of the engine, stress cracking for some reason, or possible damage over tightening the 2 halves of the casing. There is something nagging at the back of my mind that Jim (JRL) said about not using old casings for re-builds. Could this be what he means?

I will take photos of the issue and see what you guys think. There is no oil leaking from the trans, but the issue is right on the top so may/may not ever be an issue.

I DO NOT need this trans for my current car, but as a learning tool for me, but I'm still thinking that if I were to ever have it re-built what may happen. I'll take some photos and see if they come out and post them in the next couple of days.

Thanks again for all the input and advice!

Neil.

[jimmy57]

I think you're seeing normal casting lines. I have seen that on lots of transmissions. If they were cracks there would be leaks. The drums spinning inside would be kicking lots of oil out through cracks.

[scot850]

Thanks jimmy! I'll take some photos and if they show what I am talking about then if you get a chance you can let me know if it is what you have seen with your much wider knowledge.

I am a mechanical Engineer, and normally I would agree with you, especially as the transmission is 100% bone dry, but again this is at the highest point of the casting so it is not like the cracks would be sitting in oil, but pressure would affect it. The only reason I would dispute this is there is what looks like a casting line right by where a bolt thread is, and it looks like it may have been 'stitched' repaired.

I'll photo and post back if for no other reason than as an education for me!

Appreciate the wisdom!

Neil.