2004 xc90 2.5t getting ready to do cam seals

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 25 Mar 2015, 15:27

I have mentioned in a previous post about my oil leak issue, and will park the xc90 next week while I work on it. I have all the seals. Waiting for the cam locking tool to come to get started.

One question I have in regards to the video on youtube showing how to remove and install the vvt hub.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4uLvH151-c

at the 1:45 minute mark, he straightens out the cam from the rear with the flat head. before that he makes timing marks on the cam pulleys. Wouldn't straightening out the cams mess up the marks? or perhaps the exhaust moved a little and he just straightened it? Just need some clarification.

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 25 Mar 2015, 15:36

Can I line everything up (cranks/cams), install the tool, then take the belt off? That way nothing moves. Now that I think about it, isn't that the way it should be done in first place?

draser · Post by **draser** » 27 Mar 2015, 06:26

When you line up front marks the rear slots will be at an angle on vvt side, just like video. But, you do need to straighten back to install tool, to be able to remove front bolts. If you have marked as per video, which is highly recommended, you need to line up front vvt sproket at the end before installing belt. Then, looking at the back slots you'll have the slight angle just as the begining.

Post by **cn90** » 27 Mar 2015, 07:19

If I remember correctly, then I already posted info on principles of operations (of the Volvo VVT) on another thread and the tips and tricks on how to align the cam seals on your other post...

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=67874

http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-xc90 ... ded-81251/

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 12 Apr 2015, 09:45

So I started pulling things off the engine to do the job. On the back of the engine, there are 2 cam position sensor so no caps needed. However there are these grey looking things bolted onto the campshaft. here is a photo:

I am not sure if this has to go back on a certain way, although I think it does. I will mark the way it is on now and them take them off.

Second, Is there a way to know if the crank seal is leaking? There is oil mainly behind the VVT exhaust hub (which is very common, I know), but oil has leaked all the way down and is all over the place. I heard the crank seal going out is not very common and would like to leave it alone. also I would like to avoid taking off the crank pulley.

I will keep updating this post as I go.

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 17 Apr 2015, 10:24

Well in regards to the grey part under the camshaft sensors, there is only one way that it can go on as there is a notch on the camshaft end that corresponds with one on the of the part. Both camshaft sensors have this and have unique notches on them so that one cannot mix them up or install them incorrectly.

So far I have installed the vvt hubs back on with new cam seals. I made sure to install the seals the same way I found them upon removal making sure they were not pushed all the way in. I also replaced the seals (ebay ones) on the vvt hub itself.

Before removal, both vvt hubs have inwards and outwards movement, but now with all the seals replaced, and torqued down, there is no movement in thoese same vvt hubs! Hopefully any play in the hubs was due to worn out seals ie cam seals and hub seals. We'll see anyhow what happens down the line.

I will update once I get the car started.

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 01 May 2015, 12:07

So I finally got the job done. I cant comment on any leaks yet, but I noticed something with the new timing belt. Im not sure if its normal but it seems like the timing belt (conti brand) is very close to the outer edge of the cam pulleys. Same with the tensioner pulley. its riding flush with the outer edge of the tensioner pulley. The pulleys have only 50k miles on them so I did not replace them and I checked them and they were smooth with no play or sound. Otherwise, it started up right away and the belts is spinning fine with no issues.

The other thing I noticed is that the arm on the tensioner (the one you use to set the tensioner according to the temps) was moving back and forth a mm or so. It was at the full right position when I checked it (hottest) and the engine warm. Is this small movement in the tensioner arm normal? I did set like I always have, and I have done 3 or 4 of these belts before.

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 01 May 2015, 14:14

So I drove it around a bit incuding some acceleration upto 4k rpms, and everything seems fine. belt hasnt move from where it was the whole time. Maybe its normal and I never paid attention the other times. I just happened to looked more closely this time around because I was looking for leaks.

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 02 May 2015, 16:21

So I am about to replace the tensioner and idler pulley regardless for peace of mind. Not sure if they are bad but it seems like from the belt marks on the pulleys that it was riding on the outer edge for the last 3 years. Maybe its normal?

Anyways, I just watched FCPs video on how to replace the timing belt and when he tensions the tensioner, he spins it counterclockwise on the 03 S60 he is working on and I believe its the same tensioner what I am working with. I always thought it was clockwise for my car?!? Anyways no harm done. I guess I need to confirm if its clockwise or counterclockwise that I need to tension the tensioner.

Thanks

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 12 May 2015, 15:11

Just completed the job with new tensioner and idler pulley and tensioned the tensioner counter clockwise as opposed to clockwise the last time I replaced the belt and everything is spinning fine and in the center of all pulleys.