Just checking since I see mixed "write-ups / opinions". I am doing my first C70 timing belt and the process looks a little different then it would be for the 850. So please advise:
1.) Do I really need to remove the crankshaft pulley??? Seems like the you-tube video provided from FCP and the MVS write-up has it being pulled. But Since I have read that it can cause a shift in alignment marks I prefer not to.
2.) Seems like the IDP lock tool (i used for 850's) with 4 prongs is not used due to the engine being variable timing or something like that... Is there no way to really secure the pulleys to insure no movement? Or no need to worry about that?
3.) Dont see any C70 specific writeups for this found the S60 writeup and they remove the pulley.
4.) Tensioner description sounds a bit more complicated also... versus the 850 also...
Any tips would be appreciated before I dive in and end up in a panic.
Thanks
2004 C70 Turbo Timing Belt Change
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cuhfs
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2004 C70 Turbo Timing Belt Change
04 C70 Convert Auto
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Ozark Lee
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You don't need to remove the harmonic balancer. The new belt will fight you a bit getting it back on but it will thread on with the toothed side toward the block under the crankshaft sprocket. I just cut the old belt in half to remove it so that I don't have to fight it on the way out.
You are correct about the cam locker tool. I find that it has little utility with the 850 engines without CVVT and it is actually counterproductive with a CVVT engine.
Before you remove the old belt rotate the engine to the timing marks clockwise and then continue 90 degrees past the timing marks (your timing marks for the camshaft are at the 12:00 position) and then rotate the engine back counterclockwise back to the marks. This sets the CVVT preload.
As you install the new timing belt thread it on from the bottom starting at the idler roller and as you go across the camshafts turn the CVVT sprockets to the timing marks as the belt goes on. The trick here is to have the belt fairly taught across the idler roller as it goes onto the intake sprocket. On a 2004 I think you have CVVT on both the intake and exhaust but if not turn the sprocket on the CVVT shaft only.
Once the belt is on set the tension indicator to be in the window between the two forks on the tensioner and snug down the tensioner bolt.
Rotate the engine by hand a couple of revolutions and re-check the timing mark alignment and also re-check the tensioner indicator. It is common for the tensioner adjustment to change.
After you check everything go ahead and start the engine and after it runs for a few minutes shut it down and re-check the tensioner again. It usually takes me three or four iterations to get the tensioner adjusted to a point where it stays in the window.
The mechanical tensioner is actually easier than the hydraulic tensioner since you can recover quickly from any error along the way. With the hydraulic tensioner you need to remove it and re-compress it if there is any problem after you pull the grenade pin. Re-compressing the hydraulic tensioner takes a lot of time to do it properly.
...Lee
You are correct about the cam locker tool. I find that it has little utility with the 850 engines without CVVT and it is actually counterproductive with a CVVT engine.
Before you remove the old belt rotate the engine to the timing marks clockwise and then continue 90 degrees past the timing marks (your timing marks for the camshaft are at the 12:00 position) and then rotate the engine back counterclockwise back to the marks. This sets the CVVT preload.
As you install the new timing belt thread it on from the bottom starting at the idler roller and as you go across the camshafts turn the CVVT sprockets to the timing marks as the belt goes on. The trick here is to have the belt fairly taught across the idler roller as it goes onto the intake sprocket. On a 2004 I think you have CVVT on both the intake and exhaust but if not turn the sprocket on the CVVT shaft only.
Once the belt is on set the tension indicator to be in the window between the two forks on the tensioner and snug down the tensioner bolt.
Rotate the engine by hand a couple of revolutions and re-check the timing mark alignment and also re-check the tensioner indicator. It is common for the tensioner adjustment to change.
After you check everything go ahead and start the engine and after it runs for a few minutes shut it down and re-check the tensioner again. It usually takes me three or four iterations to get the tensioner adjusted to a point where it stays in the window.
The mechanical tensioner is actually easier than the hydraulic tensioner since you can recover quickly from any error along the way. With the hydraulic tensioner you need to remove it and re-compress it if there is any problem after you pull the grenade pin. Re-compressing the hydraulic tensioner takes a lot of time to do it properly.
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
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