97 850 garter spring connection at the ac evaporator.

[tzanis]

Hi, I am planning to do the evaporator replacement in my 850, I haven't started yet, but , I do not have the garter spring releases, and I don't know how they work, so I thought I would make a new topic here, asking if the following is an alternative to the connections to the evaporator, without having to deal with connecting it and making sure if the o rings are attached or if everything is tight so there are no leaks, when those tubes rust out a bit. Anyway, what I thought was cutting with an angle grinder the lines, and replacing the connections with a piece of quality water hose [ the green ones with the metal web around them ] and just putting One or two clamps on every side. What are your thoughts?

All answers Highly appreciated.

[abscate]

There is a lot of pressure in an AC system especially at the condensor.

You can find diagrams on the web, but the short version is the Orings seal the joints, the springs keep the joints from walking apart.

You can buy the release tools at Harbor Freight for under 10 USD. The tool opens the spring which lets you wiggle the connection apart. Clip on, push in, wiggle wiggle ...pop! Much easier than hose butchery....

[Ozark Lee]

Give the "quick connects" a shot of oil or PB blaster first. The spring tends to rust inside the flange and it can be difficult to get the spring to properly release. A bit of oil typically makes it much easier.

...Lee

[tzanis]

After I wrote the post I went to a local department/auto store, and found those that would do the job, I think. Unfortunately, the pictures are not clear.





thanks for the valuable Information from both you.

I think the colorful set are the right ones. I will look online too, about what the procedure is and when I try it I will post back

[Ozark Lee]

I have a set just like the color coded ones and they work fine.

...Lee

[tzanis]

that's great news Lee, I will try out tomorrow and see what I can do

[abscate]

Here are some pix from m y AC evap saga. The flared end of the evap line is held by a circular spring in the other piece. When you push the coloured tool (right size will just touch the OD of the pipe when closed) into the fitting, the spring is stretched open radially and lets the flared end slip out.

You then pull the pipes apart over the Orings which seal it of course. I had to cut my evap off..if you do this cut as close to the firewall as you can so you don't cut your AC line! They go into the evap core a good 2-3 inches!

Pics to come...can't post from ipad. Archive...sorry

[JimBee]

Excellent pic's. I understood how it worked, saturated the garter spring with PB Blaster, tried various ways to get the tool to insert far enough to open the garter spring. I finally took it to a local shop where they had the professional grade tool and they struggled with it before finally getting the joint to separate. That one defeated me.

[scot850]

Whilst I had a challenge removing it, it was nothing like getting the pipes re-connected to the new evaporator. 5 hours of cursing, sweating and wiggling the ends and one would just not clip in. Eventually walked away to re-group before I set the car on fire and went back the next day. The 2 issues were the angle of the pipe coming out from the firewall was wrong so the 2 ends met at an angle, but the worst part was the evaporator flared end was too large, and slightly oval. I straightened the pipe carefully, and filed down the end slightly. Next attempt and it clicked in immediately and stayed connected!

So good luck!

Neil.

[abscate]

Excellent pic's. I understood how it worked, saturated the garter spring with PB Blaster, tried various ways to get the tool to insert far enough to open the garter spring. I finally took it to a local shop where they had the professional grade tool and they struggled with it before finally getting the joint to separate. That one defeated me.

I think you defeated it. Like any good General, you merely used your reinforcements when needed