PCV (related) job, and other stuff

[draser]

It all started with a mild lean condition, reduced mpg to about 20 (city driving), no other symptoms as far as driveability. Long trim is mildly up, see picture:

Turns out the hose coming out of valve cover into PCV is severed at the "accordion". So after checking out this site's suppliers I went with Europarts. After taking stuff apart, turns out PCV and block ports are pretty clean, along with throttle body. Engine had 74K on it, thank you previous owner for changing oil, etc. Removed parts, like the long hose going back to turbo intake, chubby hose going to the block, were in like new condition so no replacement. Just washing with Palmolive and petroleum jelly treatment. PCV box was clean so it was reused. Intake valves looked brand new, very clean, however several cylinders the stems were brownish, so there is some overheating going on there.
One comment on Europarts, I ordered 4 copper gaskets for the banjo's but received 3. No big deal, but they placed 1 in plastic bag, and the 3 in the cardboard box everything else was in. Luckily I found 2, but the 4-th one was gone. Sent them an email, no reply. Turns out the copper gaskets were too wide anyways, especially for the bolt at the side of the block, where there's a small recess for the gasket and new one was way too wide. Ended up resurfacing old ones on 400 grade wet sandpaper, and reuse.
For hose clamps, I ordered a set of Oeticker's since I don't quite like worm type in places I can't see and access, for obvious reasons. And they come OEM from Volvo.
All 8mm ID hoses like the one going into intake mani, had to be replaced because were crumbling, literally. I ordered silicone rubber and replaced all.
Since I had alternator out, I removed the bearings, cleaned up and repacked with grease, I had a bearing noise (at start up) since I bought the car, now gone. Brushes look okay, but I resurfaced the collector rings with fine sandpaper. Also cleaned regulator contacts and landing surfaces of corrosion, and greased.
Some corrosion on the block at thermostat housing, wet sanding with 220 grit. Some corrosion at intake mating to the block, 220 grit wet sanding. Same for the 2 thermostat housings.
Since I had the manifold out I did some polishing of the bowl and runners, mostly cast flashing. There's a dam to the plenum side of the bowl, I removed some of it with the die grinder for better flow from TB into plenum.
Gave block a good cleaning, since I used to have a steering oil leak at the pump intake hose since new, now corrected.
Cleaned TB and banjo bolt with the PCV valve in it, making sure the cross pin was still there (for how long?)
Removed oil sensor and installed VDO oil pressure gauge. Wanted to run the lead wire of the sensor to a relay contact, but taped up for later. Funny enough, I don't get an oil light or message, how does ECU know that pressure is good? Oil pressure is excellent, about 70 psi at start up, 22psi fully warm at idle. That's about what I had on previous cars.
Assembly is reversed to removal, like they say, and here's the long trim now back to normal:

Have done about 200 miles after repair, no leaks at critical points.