'96 855 Flex Plate bolts $$

Post by **dosbricks** » 09 Jul 2015, 19:21

I'm gearing up for replacing the failed rear main seal on my wagon which has gone from bad to worse. Volvo specifies replacing the flex plate/flywheel bolts. There are 10 of them at $6 a pop.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... vo-1275375

They torque to 45 Nm + 65 degrees. This doesn't seem too extreme for a TTY bolt. I would like to hear the collective wisdom as to whether it would be OK to reuse these on an NA engine with auto trans if I used plenty of thread lock.

Volvo also recommends replacing the torque converter bolts--6 of them at $7 each. They are not TTY. I would definitely like to reuse these.

But in total they are talking $100 worth of bolts. This project is already a budget strain due to a pile of front end parts I replaced last month.

Thanks for your opinions.

dos

Post by **precopster** » 09 Jul 2015, 19:38

I reuse them. Haven't heard of any issues with torque converters grinding their way through the bellhousing due to snapped or loosened driveplate bolts.

Post by **dosbricks** » 09 Jul 2015, 20:02

Mike,
Do you happen to recall what size 12 point socket those flex plate bolts require? I've heard conflicting info on the net. Thanks.

Post by **abscate** » 09 Jul 2015, 20:16

You have to get all the oil and grease out of them to get thread locker to setup right, so clean both bolts and threads with solvent

Post by **tryingbe** » 09 Jul 2015, 20:26

I reused all the bolts my Turbo car... still running after 30k.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 09 Jul 2015, 21:04

I'm cautious when it comes to replacing angle torqued bolts but I have reused both flex plate and flywheel bolts when I replaced a clutch on the stick and the engine on the slushbox car. No problems with either one but I did use Loctite Red.

...Lee

Post by **erikv11** » 10 Jul 2015, 01:35

Ditto. I have only done two RMS jobs (do the front/input seal on the transmission too, while you are in there!) but reused all fasteners. Cleaned 'em up and used loctite red.

: use a 12-point, 17 mm socket

Post by **precopster** » 10 Jul 2015, 03:19

Torx 50 was my recollection of the size for the torque converter bolts. Erik answered the driveplate bolt question above.

Loctite red is serious stuff. Personally I would use Loctite blue to stand half a chance of not damaging the threads the next time out (I guess on this age of car it will probably be the last time the driveplate or flywheel is removed so what the hell)

On the flexplate bolts I used plumber's tape because the threads seem to go all the way through the crank and into the crankcase and that was reason enough to use a sealant type of tape. Also the color of the existing sealant was white much like the sealant on water pump bolts.

I did this on my sold 1995 850 wagon which has now done a further 75,000 kms with a new owner and also on my 1993 960 which was sold to a tomatoe farmer who racked up some mileage however the transmission prematurely died.

Post by **cn90** » 10 Jul 2015, 07:48

- This is a 9h job, even with a lift at the shop.
- The RMS is made by Corteco. You can use Volvo OEM seal or Corteco (search rmeuropean.com).
Don't use any other brand.

- Watch for the trans cooler lines connection at the trans (cover that with ziploc bag + rubber band). Then use new O-rings.

As much as I do 99% of the work on the car, this is a job that I am glad I sent to my indy who charged me $70 x 9h = $630. It is worth every penny. I am not interested in laying in my back for 9h fighting the small space at home. At the shop, it is somewhat more pleasant as they have the car up on the air and trans lift etc.

Think about all the money you save over the years doing all these DIYs, it amounts to thousands and thousands $. So once every 10y/100K, it is fine to give the most challenging job to the indy so they can make some living...LOL.

Post by **erikv11** » 10 Jul 2015, 08:08

It's a long job but fortunately there is really no laying on your back at all, maybe 30 minutes altogether (for the exhaust manifold to downpipe nuts).

The standard method is to pull the engine and trans together, separate them for the seal job, then put it back together and drop it back in. An engine pull is much easier than head work, just takes a while (less thanks to the great DIY by wheelsup!) and you have to be safe with the heavy engine-trans assembly.