1997 850 huge oil consumption no leaks

Post by **m491** » 20 Aug 2015, 07:00

My son starts his 1997 850 GLT (LPT) and I hear awful ticking. I give him hell for not checking the oil recently and we have to add 3 quarts to get it to half way mark. I'd have put more in but I didn't have any last night. When he started the car it gave off a good cloud of oil which I never saw from this car before. When he accelerated it gave off a lighter amount of oil smoke.

The car just passed a state emissions test two months ago and I never saw the oil burning like this prior to this week. I know from reading the forum posts to check the stem seals, compression and turbos for the issue. The car has about 110,000 miles and took no more than the normal quarter every 3000 miles prior to this. Can the turbo seal go without leaking all over the ground? I've never had turbo issues before on any of our other 850's so this is a new area for me. Any advice on tracking this down without taking it to a shop?

mika · Post by **mika** » 20 Aug 2015, 07:36

burning is different than leaking. Throw some marvels mystery oil or similar product to the oil asap.

Post by **m491** » 20 Aug 2015, 08:05

The thing that has me concerned is it's happening since a clean bill of help (emissions testing) two months ago. I've never had the issue on any of my other 5 cyl Volvo's before (since I've owned 6, I must be just lucky.)

Post by **tryingbe** » 20 Aug 2015, 08:15

Have your son start saving money for a new car and keep putting oil in the Volvo and drive it until it quits.

It'll probably be sooner rather than later, considering his oil keeping record.

Post by **scot850** » 20 Aug 2015, 11:33

As the guys say, strange there are no leaks and it suddenly started. Make me think something like a seal has failed. Do the compression checks, dry and wet (will show if the rings/valve seals have failed possibly due to low oil). In your son's defence, this type of problem can suddenly happen.

If it were my money, chances are it may be the turbo seals gone. Pulling the spark plugs and checking if they are oiled may also help diagnosis. The problem may not be fatal, but may not be worth spending the money to fix. An engine swap may be the best option or scrap depending on results of tests.

What type/weight of oil are you running? 5W30? If so, try a slightly heavier oil like 10W30. One of my Volvos didn't like the 5W30 oil and burned it. Changed to 10W30 and problem went away.

Neil.

Post by **m491** » 20 Aug 2015, 13:33

What issue is there with the turbo seals. I thought I'd have a mess behind the car from them leaking. If the turbo was bad (bearing bad??) that would let oil into the engine. So what would the turbo seals do if they were bad?

I have been running 10W30 for the entire time I've had this car.

I'm going to rent a compression tool and see what the wet and dry numbers are. From what I read I should be getting around 160 dry and 180+ wet?

Post by **tryingbe** » 20 Aug 2015, 14:56

m491 wrote:What issue is there with the turbo seals. I thought I'd have a mess behind the car from them leaking. If the turbo was bad (bearing bad??) that would let oil into the engine. So what would the turbo seals do if they were bad?

Turbo seal is just a little tiny piston ring, nothing special about it. If the bearings are bad on a turbo, it will have massive side to side shaft play.

Turbo is very sensitive on quality and quantity of oil, if the turbo is damaged, it's too late. You can check shaft play to find out.

Post by **m491** » 20 Aug 2015, 15:04

I have to do a compression test but my head says the issue is the turbo due to being starved for oil.

Post by **abscate** » 20 Aug 2015, 15:18

I'm going with a broken piston ring which explains both tick and oil use

It also lets Jr off the hook

And gives you time to sort out what to do if you drive it gently

Post by **JDS60R** » 20 Aug 2015, 16:46

That burning oil can come from many places. If it is the turbo it will get worse with an increase in rpm (and boost pressure) . Turbos do wear and leak over time -its normal.

Here are the more common issues.

1. Oil trap box , oil vapor box - call it what you like- its under the manifold.
It begs the questions
Any maintenance on the oil trap box? Is dipstick blowing smoke when idling? Glove test? Increased size hose from box to throttle body connection?

2. As you mentioned valve guide/stem seals. ( AT-205 or change them)

3.Change in kinematic viscosity of oil. Due to recent oil change to thinner more fuel efficient oil. There is a big push to make oil help with fuel economy. Remember - you can have 10 different 10W-40's and there thickness (kinematic viscosity) can be quite different. ( Change oil to a 10W-40 with high kinematic viscosity and a top brand filter like Mann or Mahle.

4. Dirty air filter . The extra restriction of a very dirty filter can help the vacuum increase. When the motor is starved for air it will pull air and sometimes oil from where ever it can find it. Turbo shaft seal, pcv oil trap system etc. (Replace with Mann or Mahle)

Just as an FYI on oil filters- some oil filters have been known to restrict oil flow enough to make it tick at startup until oil warms.

All that being said - there is a reality that if the motor was driven low on oil, often, it may have suffered extra wear and may just be burning oil. If the ideas above don't work for you start with a vacuum test followed by inspecting the OTE pipe for oil, and while its off do a leak down and compression test.

Feel free to post pics with what you find ( helpful to other members) . Let me know how I can help.
Best Wishes,
John