A fortnight ago I got a p1332 OBD-II code. I cleared it and 120miles later it's come back. I understand that this code is often the result of a bad CVVT valve/solenoid or dodgy valve timing.
Both times the code was reported when the engine was at idle speed. After the first instance, I took the timing belt cover off and inspected the cam belt. Based on mileage, the cam belt is near to needing a change, but looks OK, (not perished, loose or badly placed on the pulleys.) When the code is cleared the engine starts and runs OK so I think the CVVT valve is faulty.
Looking at other threads, replacing the CVVT valve seems to require changing connectors or splicing wires. Will I have to do this even if I order the part from Volvo? It's not a problem, but I'd like to avoid it if possible.
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Rich
2002 s60 P1332 OBD code CVVT valve/solenoid
- kallekula
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You will need to cut wires to fit the new solenoid. No biggie. The new solenoid has tiny marks on it to help install it correctly. Don't think it would damage anything if u get the polarities wrong. Done it myself a couple of times and I never had a problem once installed correctly. This was before I knew about the small markings on the new solenoid connector.
BMW 540i 2002
S70 Base 2000
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RichCrewe
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- Year and Model: S60 2002
- Location: UK
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Hi again,
Replaced the solenoid and wired in a few weeks ago with a pattern part. Now I'm seeing P0014 DTC (cam timing over advanced) with increasing frequency, I reset each time. I've seen a pending P0013 once (open circuit on VVT solenoid).
I've just checked the resistance of the solenoid when cold and get approx 4 ohms. The wiring seems correct, with 12V ignition on pin 1 and by probing through the insulation of the wires, I can see that there's continuity through the system. Unplugging the solenoid with the engine running causes a definite change of idle quality, so it is doing something.
The inside of the old solenoid valve body looks clean, (though it is difficult to see the moving parts,) I don't think the system is obstructed by muck.
I don't think the cam-belt has jumped a tooth as the timing is reporting over advanced and I'd expect it to report over retarded when the cam falls behind.
Has anyone come across these symptoms before? I'm beginning to think that the VVT pully is defective it's getting on for 14 years old and I'm wondering if some internal seals have perished.
--
Rich
Replaced the solenoid and wired in a few weeks ago with a pattern part. Now I'm seeing P0014 DTC (cam timing over advanced) with increasing frequency, I reset each time. I've seen a pending P0013 once (open circuit on VVT solenoid).
I've just checked the resistance of the solenoid when cold and get approx 4 ohms. The wiring seems correct, with 12V ignition on pin 1 and by probing through the insulation of the wires, I can see that there's continuity through the system. Unplugging the solenoid with the engine running causes a definite change of idle quality, so it is doing something.
The inside of the old solenoid valve body looks clean, (though it is difficult to see the moving parts,) I don't think the system is obstructed by muck.
I don't think the cam-belt has jumped a tooth as the timing is reporting over advanced and I'd expect it to report over retarded when the cam falls behind.
Has anyone come across these symptoms before? I'm beginning to think that the VVT pully is defective it's getting on for 14 years old and I'm wondering if some internal seals have perished.
--
Rich
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vtl
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I replaced VVT hub on our 2002 V70 with N/A engine 3 years ago. The car didn't throw any codes, but was grinding violently in 1400..1600 RPM range. N/A engine is way more permissive when it comes to skipped tooth. I had no codes with even two teeth skipped due to incorrectly installed t-belt. 2.5T engine throws code immediately.
Check the t-belt marks. If you didn't have t-belt replaced yet, you are way overdue, and weakened tensioner may start to slip the belt.
Check the t-belt marks. If you didn't have t-belt replaced yet, you are way overdue, and weakened tensioner may start to slip the belt.
- oragex
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As above, I would look into the belt timing and tension (tensioner adjustment and rolling). If the adjustment needle seems to be shaking a lot when the engine is running, or it's not in the middle with the engine cold, it may have an issue.
As for the solenoid open circuit code, the cut wires were soldered together? Maybe a wire got detached from the soldering.
A video about testing the solenoid(s)
As for the solenoid open circuit code, the cut wires were soldered together? Maybe a wire got detached from the soldering.
A video about testing the solenoid(s)
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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RichCrewe
- Posts: 26
- Joined: 2 December 2013
- Year and Model: S60 2002
- Location: UK
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Finally, closure.
The CVVT solenoid that I fitted in August was faulty! It had an internal short to ground, but only when it was hot. When cold, it behaved correctly, but as the engine came up to temperature it would self activate, driving the cam timing to fully advanced. As the control pin was almost directly connected to ground (1.5 ohms at 50 Celsius) it looked like an open circuit to the ECU.
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Rich
The CVVT solenoid that I fitted in August was faulty! It had an internal short to ground, but only when it was hot. When cold, it behaved correctly, but as the engine came up to temperature it would self activate, driving the cam timing to fully advanced. As the control pin was almost directly connected to ground (1.5 ohms at 50 Celsius) it looked like an open circuit to the ECU.
--
Rich
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