Removing 940 non turbo exhaust manifold

[correllkp]

So, have to replace head gasket which means removing exhaust manifold (I do now since a few bolts broke) but what is the pipe in the back of the exhaust manifold and which part do I turn to remove it?

[93Regina]

exhaust manifold

With front tires on blocks or stands, looking upward, there are three nuts to be removed from bottom side of exhaust manifold.

[lummert]

Are you sure this is something you want to tackle?

[correllkp]

Thanks 93Regina, the three nuts are for connecting the muffler system to the manifold. I mispoke earlier, the pipe I am asking about is actually a small diameter copper tube connected to the back of the exhaust manifold.

[lummert]

Thanks 93Regina, the three nuts are for connecting the muffler system to the manifold. I mispoke earlier, the pipe I am asking about is actually a small diameter copper tube connected to the back of the exhaust manifold.

Perhaps for an EGR valve.

[correllkp]

This is a follow up to several of my earlier posts. The problem started out with a leaking water pump. The leak was right at the top hat gasket. After replacing the gasket several times I could not get the leak to stop. I took the car to the garage and they diagnosed the problem as being a blown head gasket. They wanted $1700 plus to repair not including having the cylinder head resurfaced. Brought the car home. Removing the cylinder head was the hard part largely because I had a difficult time disconnecting a small pipe from the back of the exhaust manifold. Not all exhaust manifolds have this pipe, only ones with the pulse air system. Sure enough the head gasket was blown right at the top hat area (see pictures...water pumped removed) Had the cylinder head resurfaced at a local machine shop (they also pressure tested the valves and fixed a few broken bolts) for about $300. While I had everything apart I also replaced the front engine seals, rotor, distributor cap, harmonic pulley, and spark plugs, thermostat, coolant temperature sender). Put everything back together and redid the timing belt install. I also got rid of the pulse air system by capping the pulse air manifold with two 1/2 inch bronze plugs (from home depot) (see picture). It was all shot anyways and way too expensive to put in new parts. I have read that you can just take out the pulse air manifold and either plug the holes in the cylinder head or tap and bolt the holes. I also anti-seized everything, particularly that small pipe at the rear of the exhaust manifold to make it easier if I ever have to do this again. Fired her up and everything sounded good and there was no coolant leak at the corner of the of the cylinder head near the top hat area (which was the problem). (Note..at first the engine will smoke if there is any excess anti-seize on the manifold...goes away after a bit but it is a little disconcerting at first.) Drove around a little bit and noticed I was leaking oil, at first just a little, then it seemed like more. I thought maybe there was something wrong with one or more of the front engine seals. I also checked out the oil breather box which seemed ok which is good because it would have been a pain to remove due to its location under the intake manifold. Well, it turns out that installing new front oil engine seals is not just simply taking out the old ones and sticking in new ones. There is a little bit of a process...not difficult just something to be aware of (search on the forums and you will find different processes). So, I redid the front engine seals, correctly this time (although I did not see much evidence of oil leaking at the seals...maybe a little weeping), redid the timing belt, again (I am done to about 20 minutes to do a timing belt job...I also used that tool for holding the main pulley...makes the job a lot easier in my opinion). Put everything back together, fired her up, and again everything sounded great but still had oil leak...which seemed to be getting a little worse than it was before. Turns out the leak was from the oil pressure switch sender (just below the exhaust manifold and in front of the oil filter.) Likely I banged it with the exhaust manifold when I wrestling it out of the car. Replaced the sender (takes about 2 minutes with the right deep socket) and fired her up again (while I was at it I also replaced the oil cap gasket...the old one was more like a hard ceramic ring than a pliable rubber gasket). Now, no oil leaks, no coolant leaks, and engine sounds pretty good. Took her for about a 70 mile test drive and everything seems and sounds good. Also,not positive yet, but think my gas mileage improved quite a bit (gauge hardly moved after 70 mile test drive).

blown head gasket in place

IMG_0451.JPG (112.78 KiB) Viewed 1999 times