1997 Volvo 854R Using QMI or Slick 50 after seafoam crankcase treatment?

hevers1981 · Post by **hevers1981** » 23 Jan 2016, 12:59

Subject is pretty much self-explanatory.

I aquired my 854R not too long ago from someone who I think deeply neglected this beaut.
She has 211k miles on her and when I went to do an oilchange I discovered that the previous owner had been using fossil oil (Which I think is bad for PCV and PTC components) and a Microguard for the filter.
I had been noticing slight smoke coming out of the dipstick tube and I serviced the PTC nipple while replacing aged vacuum lines from the TCV at same time.

I then did a seafoam treatment (1/3 in crankcase, gas tank, vacuum tree) and then another half can in the gas tank and the other half in the crankcase.

Its been about 60 miles since the treatment and nothing bad yet, noticable gains and the smoking dipstick went away after cleaning the PTC. I intend to change the oil within the next few days and I'm wondering if using an engine oil additive such as QMI http://www.qmiitw.com/QMI_Engine.html or Slick 50 would be a good thing or not.

Has anyone had a good experience with either of these before? I've read some previous comments on the usage of Slick 50 and how it wasn't a good thing but what about QMI? I just had a very experienced mechanic who worked on older cars tell me that it works really well to penetrate rings and bearings which can help prevent further damage.

When I change the oil I'll be using MANN filter and Mobil 1, was considering QMI or Lucas oil stabilizer , any advice would be greatly appreciated.
^_^

Post by **Matty Moo** » 23 Jan 2016, 13:34

Don't use any of that stuff. Nobody here uses it and there's no benefit except to the person selling it.

Post by **matthew1** » 23 Jan 2016, 14:01

Synthetics are so good these days. I think you'd have to look awfully hard to find a reason to go beyond them.

New luxury and performance brands w synthetic oil are at, what, 12k miles before the first oil change now?

That's telling.

Post by **scot850** » 23 Jan 2016, 15:11

May have been coincidence, but I had a 3 series BMW and put Slick-50 this in as it was highly recommended. About 2 weeks later the engine grenaded! Put a rod out the side of the block.

Seafoam is the only one I use. The only other way I may use that type of stuff is if something is close to death and need to try to get it to a point in time prior to re-build or replacement.

Neil.

Post by **FLXC90** » 23 Jan 2016, 15:14

When I got my 98 S70 (POS70) it had 223k and in questionable repair. Did seafoam, use store-brand synthetic no additives. Serviced PCV, changed blown cam seals. I did add a seal plasticizer to remedy a RMS seep. Almost two years now, no problems. I wouldn't spend the money on extras that you probably don't need. This is a motor designed for longevity.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 24 Jan 2016, 15:37

Like everyone else here is telling you, these are well built engines.
A good oil ( I prefer Mobil 1 ), regular changes and the right PM?
These cars will run for hundreds of thousands of miles.

If this car is as neglected as you believe,
start reading up on the PVC renewal.
This site and others have a pile of good info.
Be careful of the parts you buy for this job!

And what's the state of the timing belt?
If it lets loose, not much else will matter...
Part sourcing is significant here as well.

In fact, just start with a search for "Stage 0".

hevers1981 · Post by **hevers1981** » 25 Jan 2016, 14:53

BEJinFbk wrote:Like everyone else here is telling you, these are well built engines.
A good oil ( I prefer Mobil 1 ), regular changes and the right PM?
These cars will run for hundreds of thousands of miles.

If this car is as neglected as you believe,
start reading up on the PVC renewal.
This site and others have a pile of good info.
Be careful of the parts you buy for this job!

And what's the state of the timing belt?
If it lets loose, not much else will matter...
Part sourcing is significant here as well.

In fact, just start with a search for "Stage 0".

I'll steer away from the PTFE additives then.

I'm pretty happy with the car, Olga treats me right. ^_^
Did a PCV test based off of RSPi's videos, was really helpful thanks Robert. Glove test passed; however, there originally was some smoke coming out of dipstick and at idle. So I went and did the seafoam the way I've seen posts here on it (1/3rd in crankcase, vacuum tree, gas tank,) no hydrolock. And when I went to change vac lines I did pull the PTC off its hose and cleaned with pipe cleaners and brake cleaner. No more smoke.

I'm still in the air on completely replacing the PCV system as it looks fairly new. It think the guy just forgot about the PTC nipple and when he saw the tires were shot and the heater core was toast he just did a quick sell on it. Bought it for $2300 over in the bay area.

Timing belt is good, it was changed out at 197k.
The only thing left on my stage 0 (in my book at least) are three lower engine mounts (Front, rear, lower right,) engine and transmission torque mount, two more vac lines that I hadn't previously noticed, a brake booster line as the original is crumbling just like the other vacuum lines and I'll be replacing the whole front and rear suspension (Struts, shocks) with Koni FSD with IPD sport springs.

I need to replace the suspension anyways so I figured on upgrading it. I did the subframe bushing inserts and it helped a LOT but it still rides very hard. Matter of fact, I'd like to replace all the major bushings on the car itself, any others I should address? I've done upper engine stabalizer, the one above it is new, and bushing inserts since the subframe bushings didn't look too badly damaged. There's still some vibration in it so I'm hoping when I go do the suspension and re-alignment that this will fix it.

Concerning the brake booster line, does anyone know of a vendor who sells them preferably in silicon?

Post by **sleddriver** » 25 Jan 2016, 15:02

I used BG109 engine flush after completely replacing the PCV system to thoroughly clean the motor and get rid of the oil that reaked of gasoline. I also drained the oil cooler in the radiator. Refilled with Mobil 1. The sled is currently at 210,000mi and I'm the original owner.

There's NO WAY I'd add anything to my engine oil to "supplement" it. There's just NO need. Oil is more highly refined than it's ever been. Synthetic oil is even better. Why mess with that?

Post by **mecheng** » 25 Jan 2016, 18:15

Oil additives went the way of the dinosaur a while back. Many tests proved they did little. Even Dino oil is amazing now. The Penzoil YB posted the lowest volatile numbers recently, yes lower than all synthetics.