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1999 V70 T5 - Broken Hatch wires lead to no-crank condition, Manual trans 9168056

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » How To Troubleshoot Volvos
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abscate
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1999 V70 T5 - Broken Hatch wires lead to no-crank condition, Manual trans 9168056

Post by abscate »

Trying to get home, pulled over and no start.

No cranking.

I also noticed by FOB has stopped working, will not unlock any doors

Also, driver door lock switch no longer locks doors

All idiot lights come on but I get the click of a dash relay but no cranking.

Checking fuses......
Empty Nester
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Fuses all look good. Trying to find some wire to jump the green red starter bypass

On edit - I probably missed this in the dark

Fuse 6, central locking was blown and may have been root cause.
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kahl
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Post by kahl »

I know this does'nt help you now, but low battery due to alternator failure? Stay safe and warm, feeling your pain.

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

Negative cable broken or loose from corrosion? Bad battery/alternator combo? Or simply loose terminal connections?
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1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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dosbricks
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Post by dosbricks »

Agree with kahl and Matt. The door lock issues make it sound like you are out of juice. Headlights dim?--working?
'98 S70, 230k, purchased new in '98
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter

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Post by abscate »

Battery fine.

I rigged the starter bypass, being stuck in the a Walmart parking lot (where I was getting a trailer bulb, having talked my way out of a ticket) bought some primary wire, and VROOOM>>> she started right up.

On the way home, the clutch pedal would not drop off the cruise control, so Im guessing a bad clutch switch. On ME7 - this switch has multiple functions.

Of course, with my locks not working, its either coincidental, or I have a fault higher up that is common to the clutch switch and locks. Im guessing this is the case.

Home, safe and sound. 2 hour delay total.
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Post by abscate »

Looking at circuit diagram, nothing in common. I'll put new batteries in the fob
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Post by Cees Klumper »

Good for you and impressive that you got it going again. I would have been stumped beyond checking the batteries (car and fob).

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Post by abscate »

I had looked all over the engine compartment for the red green starter bypass wire and concluded my car didn't have one. While checking fuses, I noticed it in a large white connector under the cover.

I was heart sunk as my brain was telling me I had an immobiliser problem with both the FOB and door lock not working, so I was surprised when the bypass worked.

Be careful remote starting with a MANUAL Transmission!!

I need both a roll of wire, fused and a cutter in my " always in car" toolbox in the spare compartment
Empty Nester
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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Well, the plot thickens this morning.

No cranking with the key, car cranks fine with the bypass, but will not start!

This car always starts in 1/3 of a second, so something else is up.
Empty Nester
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