98 S70, N/A Car NOT starting after brake caliper replacement?

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 07 Feb 2016, 16:06

Hey everyone, anyone have an idea what I can do here to get our car on the road... So tired from working in the cold. Was looking forward to having smooth brakes again... But the S70 won't start... I can't for the life of my imagine what I did wrong here...

1. Old brakes were removed.
2. Old calipers were removed.
3. New calipers were installed.
4. Master cylinder never went dry
5. Used Pentosin Super 4!
6. Brakes were installed (using original HEX caliper pins instead of the almost stripped out TORX ones the rebuilt came with... will post pictures in other thread)
7. Driver's side, I asked my dad to help me out with the bleeding. Brakes would not bleed for some reason... He was pressing the clutch. He pressed it maybe fifty times. Maybe more, maybe less. I was flipping out that maybe my new lines had gone bad, the master cylinder had been drained somehow... There were groans coming from the pressing of what I didn't know at the time was the clutch. (That's when I got up to see what he was doing and he was pressing the clutch instead of the brakes...) When he started pressing the brakes I was able to bleed them.
8. Passenger side, were brakes bled normally without incident.
9. Cleaned down the front two rims which were filthy from brake dust from the seized calipers. (Used Armor All rim spray and as per instructions, hosed them down after thirty seconds...)
10. Starting thinking... maybe the reason why our car has a weird "jingle" sound after driving around for two hours is because the mechanical tensioner isn't adjusted properly... Removed the timing belt cover and saw the little finger pointing towards the HOT side, barely touching the hot finger. (The car is cold, it's freezing here, no way it should be pointing there so I adjusted it towards the cold side.)
11. Went to crank the car. It cranks, solidly, proudly, the way a Volvo should. Won't turn on.
12. Old batter from 2012 is registering 12.7 on the multimeter.
13. Swapped the battery with a 2013 Interstate registering 12.8. (From my Saab 9-3 Turblown)
14. Again, car cranks solidly, won't turn on.
15. Nothing out of the ordinary.
16. I spilled a little Pentoson Super 4 around the master cylinder and a little when taking off the brake hoses and adjusting stuff.
17. Yesterday, cleared the SERVICE light with the Chinese Volvo tool on eBay (birthday gift to myself...). Drove around for about few ten mins. Car felt great. Except of course for the the "seizy" front brakes.

What I've tried:
Shifting through all the gears.
Leaving the key on the "on" position for a few mins.
Took off and reinstalled the gas cap.
I've tried to turn the car on about a dozen times...

Anyone have any idea what to do? So bummed... Thanks for all your responses, guys.

Post by **erikv11** » 07 Feb 2016, 16:08

How about lawn mower syndrome - is the cranking perhaps happening with less resistance than usual?

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 07 Feb 2016, 16:11

It feels strong erikv11. My (totally unscientific, ungrounded) guess would be it's not getting gas. But I didn't touch anything gas related. How would I remedy lawnmower syndrome? (https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=18175 I forgot to whack the starter with a broom handle... I remember that trick from one of Scotty Kilmer's videos. But it got dark.

Post by **erikv11** » 07 Feb 2016, 16:17

If it is cranking then the starter is OK. By too easily I mean, the starter is not having any trouble at all, there should be resistance.

The solution to LMS is pull plugs, one tablespoon of oil into each cylinder, replace plugs (of course!) then floor it (so the throttle plate is wide open) until it coughs to life.

If no gas then the fuel rail will not be pressurized, check the Schrader valve when the key is on.

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 07 Feb 2016, 16:31

Is it possible to get LMS in just a day?

Watching this right now... Is there any way that all that clutching might have caused a problem?

Post by **erikv11** » 07 Feb 2016, 17:15

LMS shows up in an instant, in my experience pretty hard to predict. Known onsets include when you start the car and move it only a short distance, or I have had it happen just on startup when it is cold. Turn the key it almost chugs then just spins.

I hear ya on the clutching, just unable to imagine how that could be the cause. Maybe someone else will have an idea there.

Try jumpering the fuel pump relay, especially if there is no fuel pressure.

Post by **abscate** » 07 Feb 2016, 17:40

On manual cars the clutch pedal switch serves as a safety to prevent starting unless the clutch pedal is depressed.

On my 1999, it inhibits cranking. I think your 1998 is the same, but that's worth checking.

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 07 Feb 2016, 17:43

Thanks erikv11, I'll give the lawnmower suggestions a go tomorrow. Yeah, I was thinking the same, no way that a little overzealous clutching would cause something like this, unless he somehow broke the clutch pedal switch. But in that case, the car wouldn't turn over right? Was thinking that abscate's impeccably detailed overview of how his clutch pedal switch went out might apply here. (Will give that a perusal, too.) Sigh.

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 07 Feb 2016, 17:44

Thanks abscate! I know how to tackle that thanks to your write up. Will keep everyone posted. Glad to know the overzealous clutching didn't ruin something!

Post by **abscate** » 07 Feb 2016, 17:46

You can test that theory by just trying to crank with the clutch at rest. I'm sure it won't crank.

Marco...get some starter fluid ( Diethyl ether) and give that a 2 second shot into the air cleaner and see if you get some fire in test puppy. That's the quick way to sort out fuel from ignition problems.