Non-functional passenger window FIXED Topic is solved

[LUDErunner11]

Greetings once again!

Background/problems:
I purchased the car with a front passenger window that would not respond (OPEN) to any commands from either driver's master switch nor passengers-side switch. Upon further inspection, I noticed a couple things...
1) When a window is fully closed, hitting the UP switch will typically yield some "noise/whine" from the window motor. I heard noise/whine when hitting UP on the passenger switch, but no sounds when hitting UP on the driver's switch.
2) When hitting UP on the driver's switch, there was no slight dimming of the backlights of the switch, while operating any other window to full close/open would dim the backlight ever so slightly. BUT when hitting DOWN on the driver's switch, I saw that the passenger-side switch backlight turned off (went black, no light... you get it).

Taking the kind advice of countless posts that either of my switches are likely to be the culprit, I purchased a driver's switch from switchdoctor.net (a whole other post, but in short: for $40 and auto-up & auto-down on BOTH front windows, it's hard not to give them money). I also tried ~5 used passenger-side switches with no success of opening the window.

So I decided to bust out my multimeter & test light and get to the bottom of it. I spent 3 non-consecutive days trying to figure out what the heck was going on! Ultimately, I was dreading pulling the dash to have a look for any damaged wires on the harness connecting the left & right front doors. I even went as far as making a diagram of the passenger-side window switch & which functions (at rest, up, down) connect which pins on the switch.

Finally, after taking apart both door jamb connectors (as they are a likely culprit in this case) TWICE on different days, we have success.

Unfortunately, I did not take photos of the damaged part on the driver's side door jamb connector but I will demonstrate with photos of the passenger side.

Pulling off the door panel wasn't necessary here, but behold the work area. The door jamb connector is found within the orange square.

Inside the yellow circle is the male part of the door jamb connector. Those little pins arranged in concentric circles are what I inspected for damage, before moving on to the individual wires leading into the doors.

Here you can see the female part of the connector. The connectors are easily disconnected with removing the torx screw (not pictured) and the black plastic collar can be rotated anti-clockwise.

Finally, you can see the little connector pins (pink arrow pointing to one of them). ONE of those pins on my driver's side was pushed inward, not allowing complete connection. I grabbed a 90-degree needle nose pliers & plucked it outward. The pin stayed still after tugging with moderate force, & I was happy once I reconnected everything (not forgetting the lil' torx screw on the locking collar)...BECAUSE MY PASSENGER WINDOW WORKED!!!

Ending it here. If anything is ambigious or hard to follow, let it be known & I'll update if need be when I have more time. Thanks for reading

[MadeInJapan]

Yay!! I bet you're happy. Hopefully others with this same issue won't have to tear into everything in order to figure out that pin that got pushed in.

[RussB]

This is a good write up!

I will investigate the connector in my car, as I seem to have a faulty switch, which is the second one I've put in the car

[DrJammer]

It seems like when I fix 1 thing, something else fails, but I still LOVE this car.

Rear driver side window will not work from switch. It works fine from driver master switch. Ordered a new Pro parts from FCP and it does nothing. I REALLY don't want to take door panels off, but simple diagnostics say the motor is fine. I am terrible at electrics and don't know what a regulator is from my readings.

Are the pics the same on the rear door as above? Is pulling apart the rubber sleeve going into the rear door going to give me access to pins/wires that may be the issue?

Thanks