If you look at the video i made you will see after doing my timing belt with a new tensioner and pulley you can see the temperature? pin middle in the the tensioner hops around. Im having a very hard time trying to set the tension correctly as well, 95% of the time when i would tighten it the part that sits between the casting on the block keeps jumping off of it to the right. Its making me insane. Also the car seems to no run a bit rough when coming to a stop, only for a split second then its normal.
Im losing hope here. Sorry for spelling mistakes and so on, this situation his me stressing out
Timing belt nigthmare! Is this normal?
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A new tensioner indeed should not be shaking like this. What brand was the part? If the old parts are original and still work a bit, I'd suggesting not discarding them yet.
In the video, the needle sits at the cold mark (such as below freezing point when the engine is cold). To set the temp needle, the trick is to tighten the center bolt slightly before adjusting the needle. You will need to release the center bolt, bring the hex key counter clockwise at 7h or until the needle passes at the right of the warm setting (just enough to pass it) to release all tension, turn the belt at the crank two turns, tighten slightly the center bolt - this goes by feel how much to tighten I did it so as to still be able to move the needle with the hex key, then move the hex key clockwise until the the needle moves back and reaches the center position - the engine would be cold and room temp at 20C. Then tighten the bolt at the spec torque which is not too much: 15 ft-lbs that's not a lot otherwise the tensioner pulley will bend and not work correctly.
In the video, the needle sits at the cold mark (such as below freezing point when the engine is cold). To set the temp needle, the trick is to tighten the center bolt slightly before adjusting the needle. You will need to release the center bolt, bring the hex key counter clockwise at 7h or until the needle passes at the right of the warm setting (just enough to pass it) to release all tension, turn the belt at the crank two turns, tighten slightly the center bolt - this goes by feel how much to tighten I did it so as to still be able to move the needle with the hex key, then move the hex key clockwise until the the needle moves back and reaches the center position - the engine would be cold and room temp at 20C. Then tighten the bolt at the spec torque which is not too much: 15 ft-lbs that's not a lot otherwise the tensioner pulley will bend and not work correctly.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
Im so not looking forward to doing this again, i might just forget about this for a week or so. So now i have to take the belt off and start over. It was an aftermarket part but made in Europe. Can i still used the old one? It has 95K miles on it. Other than this issue taking off the serpentine belt is the most frustrating part.
Last edited by Mars on 25 Mar 2016, 19:19, edited 1 time in total.
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precopster
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Pff!! it's perfectly normal behaviour!! The engine is moving/rotating of course it shifts slightly!! Leave it alone!!
You're looking for the average between the 2 left and right variations which is spot on with a slightly warm (not hot) engine

You're looking for the average between the 2 left and right variations which is spot on with a slightly warm (not hot) engine
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precopster
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If it was hot you probably just need to slightly loosen the 12mm bolt (no need to allow the tensioner to dislodge) and then turn the allen key to bring slightly less tension to the belt then tighten back up again. It may take 2 or 3 goes to get it spot on, just be gentle on the 12mm bolt until final torquing.
Yes the vibration is fine.
Yes the vibration is fine.
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precopster wrote:If it was hot you probably just need to slightly loosen the 12mm bolt (no need to allow the tensioner to dislodge) and then turn the allen key to bring slightly less tension to the belt then tighten back up again. It may take 2 or 3 goes to get it spot on, just be gentle on the 12mm bolt until final torquing.
Yes the vibration is fine.
By Volvo specifications, when the tensioner is about to be re-adjusted, the tension must be released first. This is done by moving (with the allen key) the needle past the hot mark.
There is no need to remove the tb when readjusting the tensioner. I don't remember well about the serpentine belt, but it's only a matter of space, otherwise no need to remove it either. To adjust the needle in the middle the engine has to be cold and outdoor temp 20C (70F).
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
Ok i just took a look, after letting the car sit for a while in the 38f degree temps outside this is what it looks like:
After driving around for 10 min this is what it looks like:
So after these observations i put the timing covers back on and i think im set. What do you guys think? Should i try again tomorrow or leave it as it is?
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MadeInJapan
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I'm thinking that what you're seeing is normal...There's a big difference between 38f and after you drive your car for 10 mins.
Others should chime in if it's not.
Others should chime in if it's not.
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