So, after just sinking some cash into a ETM rebuild with xeModex I get this. The oil pressure light is on, blinks occasionally, but is mainly on. There is a tick, rap at idle that comes and goes. I got P1670 and P1672 codes. I reset the codes and they haven't re-appeared, but I am not driving this also due to the pressure problem. 187k miles.
Looks like I am at a minimum into replacing the oil pan seals. I can find links for turbo and the XC for this job, but nothing for the non-turbo.
1. Is this a job to tackle on my own? Seems like mixed reviews on difficulty level. I can handle a lot and am DIY driven until we start talking about specialty tools and costs.
2. Codes and concerns?
3. Any other thoughts here?
4. Anyone have a link to this model for this job?
2000 S70, Oil light and P1670, P1672, slight knock
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FLXC90
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The non-turbo would use the same process just without oil cooler stuff. use the tutorial by I think it was ECBSykes.
Current Volvos:
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)
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E Showell
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- Year and Model: ‘07 S80 3.2
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I just finished the oil pan job on a '99 normally aspirated, no external oil cooler. I used Ed's (ECBSykes') write-up as a guide.
Observations:
In my view, the job may be a little bit easier than a PCV service, although much of it is accomplished on your back on the ground. Ramps are handy. I have two jacks, a "racing" jack and a bottle jack, plus the ramps. I needed both to do the job, plus the ramps. I probably could have managed without the ramps, but I'm glad I had them.
I drained the oil pan overnight before removing it. Not such a messy job after a full night of draining. The oil pan is a bit of a "keystone" fit. It really is clearance critical to get it maneuvered exactly right to get it both on and off. I had to jack up the engine and put a block under the front motor mount to gain a little extra clearance to maneuver the pan out.
Be very careful with the oil pan bolts. I snapped the head off one applying steady even pressure by hand with a socket wrench on the trailing edge of the pan, I believe between cylinders two and three. There seems to be a hot spot there.
If I were to do it again, I'd PB Blaster spray every single one of the perimeter bolts the night before attempting their removal, even if they don't seem particularly rusted. They appear to be steel bolts in an aluminum pan and block so there is galvanic corrosion, particularly around the bolt heads where they meet the shanks. Also, I believe there is some thread locker on the bolts too. I would also be tempted to put a drift on each bolt head and give it a sharp whack to "wake the threads up" before beginning disassembly.
I used Purple Power to clean the pan. I used it with a non-marring Scotchbrite-type pad. It must be rinsed off with water when finished and not allowed to dry on the pan. It is a very effective cleaner. Wear gloves. My pan wasn't particularly dirty given that I've used Mobil 1 10W30 hi-mileage for many years with regular changes. I'm sold on the Mobil 1 after seeing how clean the pan was. My oil pick-up screen was completely clear. The pan o-rings were considerably flattened and the smaller of the two was partially out of round but both were still intact. I wasn't getting an oil pressure light, but I did have pronounced top end ticking. Not sure it has gone after the job was completed.
The tightest clearance in getting the pan on and off is right at the front edge of the pan near the front motor mount on the passenger side.
Otherwise Ed's write up is pretty much spot on.
Observations:
In my view, the job may be a little bit easier than a PCV service, although much of it is accomplished on your back on the ground. Ramps are handy. I have two jacks, a "racing" jack and a bottle jack, plus the ramps. I needed both to do the job, plus the ramps. I probably could have managed without the ramps, but I'm glad I had them.
I drained the oil pan overnight before removing it. Not such a messy job after a full night of draining. The oil pan is a bit of a "keystone" fit. It really is clearance critical to get it maneuvered exactly right to get it both on and off. I had to jack up the engine and put a block under the front motor mount to gain a little extra clearance to maneuver the pan out.
Be very careful with the oil pan bolts. I snapped the head off one applying steady even pressure by hand with a socket wrench on the trailing edge of the pan, I believe between cylinders two and three. There seems to be a hot spot there.
If I were to do it again, I'd PB Blaster spray every single one of the perimeter bolts the night before attempting their removal, even if they don't seem particularly rusted. They appear to be steel bolts in an aluminum pan and block so there is galvanic corrosion, particularly around the bolt heads where they meet the shanks. Also, I believe there is some thread locker on the bolts too. I would also be tempted to put a drift on each bolt head and give it a sharp whack to "wake the threads up" before beginning disassembly.
I used Purple Power to clean the pan. I used it with a non-marring Scotchbrite-type pad. It must be rinsed off with water when finished and not allowed to dry on the pan. It is a very effective cleaner. Wear gloves. My pan wasn't particularly dirty given that I've used Mobil 1 10W30 hi-mileage for many years with regular changes. I'm sold on the Mobil 1 after seeing how clean the pan was. My oil pick-up screen was completely clear. The pan o-rings were considerably flattened and the smaller of the two was partially out of round but both were still intact. I wasn't getting an oil pressure light, but I did have pronounced top end ticking. Not sure it has gone after the job was completed.
The tightest clearance in getting the pan on and off is right at the front edge of the pan near the front motor mount on the passenger side.
Otherwise Ed's write up is pretty much spot on.
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT
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