driver's door window issue

marathoner65 · Post by **marathoner65** » 04 Apr 2016, 11:57

Hello All---
I have a 2001 v70 2.4T auto that has a driver's door window issue. All other windows work fine from the master controller and at each door. Lock control and mirror controls work from master control.

Driver's window works very slowly in a jerking motion, moving 1 cm up or down every 1/2 second, during this operation, a clicking can be heard from drivers door module (DDM) and from window motor.

I have removed the DDM and cleaned connectors. Removed and reseated fuses.

Took to local Volvo repair shop a got a quote of $760 to replace the DDM.

Wondering if anyone else has seen this same behavior of the drivers window moving up and down in these short jerks and if the problem is definitely the DDM or possibly something else.

I noted the discussion about cleaning the wire harness connector from door to chassis and will try that step also.

Any other advice to avoid the $760 expense would be most appreciated.

Post by **JRL** » 04 Apr 2016, 14:14

You can buy a used one for $100 or so from Erie Vovo ( http://www.erievovo.com or 1-888-VOLVO-13 ) and do the labor yourself.
$760, where do YOU live???!!!

Post by **oragex** » 04 Apr 2016, 15:20

I had an issue with the rubber strip on the inside of the glass, at the top of the door card, being bent and causing too much friction for the glass to operate properly. Sorted cutting along the rubber. In winter when there is ice on the car, I always push on the bottom of each window to break the ice so as not to force on the mechanism if I roll the window down.

As above, if it's the DDM or just a bent rack or a broken plastic sliding piece, better replace by yourself. Local advertising sites may have people who do repairs at their home for reasonable prices. Parts can be brought through Ebay.

marathoner65 · Post by **marathoner65** » 04 Apr 2016, 15:31

I live in Central VA. I know---I was shocked. My wife got the quote. I called to ask what needed replacing---thinking the $760 might be for the whole window system---regulator, motor, DDM, etc, etc Talked with mechanic today and learn that was just for the DDM. The part (new) quoted at $360, rest for software update, and labor. SMH!

marathoner65 · Post by **marathoner65** » 04 Apr 2016, 15:40

oragex wrote:I had an issue with the rubber strip on the inside of the glass, at the top of the door card, being bent and causing too much friction for the glass to operate properly. Sorted cutting along the rubber. In winter when there is ice on the car, I always push on the bottom of each window to break the ice so as not to force on the mechanism if I roll the window down.

As above, if it's the DDM or just a bent rack or a broken plastic sliding piece, better replace by yourself. Local advertising sites may have people who do repairs at their home for reasonable prices. Parts can be brought through Ebay.

Will definitely look into this issue. I feel like the switch is working and there is some friction somewhere. I don't drive the car all that much so not sure if something may have happened to cause the friction.

BTW---While I'm not a seasoned DIY car guy, I got the panel off easily by following some good guidance on youtube and checked the wiring harness connections on the DDM---no improvement.

I ordered a reman replacement on eBay for $50 to match the model and year as a next step. With luck it'll go in and work without the software reload---if the DDM is the issue.

I've seen in some places folks have replaced the top board (only) in the DDM and got that to work. May try that also if the car does not want to recognize the replacement part.

nsjames · Post by **nsjames** » 04 Apr 2016, 18:26

are the plastic clips that hold the arms to the window broken?

If you disconnect the arms from the glass (tape the glass to the top of the window frame) do they cycle freely?

with the arms disconnected, can you easily move the window up and down in the frame?

I feel your pain, i just rebuilt both of the front doors on our 04, and I hate working in doors.
the front clip is accessible behind the rubber cover above the speaker. you need to roll the window about a 1/3 of the way down. Get a 6 in 1 screwdriver. Remove the handle, and insert the small flat blade between the arm and clip. Now use a pair of needle nose pliers to twist it through the hole.
It took me an hour to figure out that trick, afterwards I could pop that clip off in 30 seconds.

marathoner65 · Post by **marathoner65** » 05 Apr 2016, 11:24

nsjames wrote:are the plastic clips that hold the arms to the window broken?

If you disconnect the arms from the glass (tape the glass to the top of the window frame) do they cycle freely?

with the arms disconnected, can you easily move the window up and down in the frame?

I feel your pain, i just rebuilt both of the front doors on our 04, and I hate working in doors.
the front clip is accessible behind the rubber cover above the speaker. you need to roll the window about a 1/3 of the way down. Get a 6 in 1 screwdriver. Remove the handle, and insert the small flat blade between the arm and clip. Now use a pair of needle nose pliers to twist it through the hole.
It took me an hour to figure out that trick, afterwards I could pop that clip off in 30 seconds.

This is very interesting---thank you! Can you point me to any images or video clips of this procedure in general? I'd really like to give this a try (if the replacement DDM does not work this weekend) but I am a total newbie on the window mechanism.

nsjames · Post by **nsjames** » 05 Apr 2016, 14:39

http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... ement.html

only i didn't try and get to the slider through that tiny hole.

2016-04-04_08-23-30 by nsjames805, on Flickr

that shows how far the window needs to be dropped to get at it through the black rubber boot.
Electrical tape sticks to glass and peels off with no residue.
Wrap it over the top of the door frame front and back and stick on a good 3-4 inches to the glass and it will stay put while you disconnect the regulator.

marathoner65 · Post by **marathoner65** » 06 Apr 2016, 13:39

nsjames wrote:http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... ement.html

only i didn't try and get to the slider through that tiny hole.
2016-04-04_08-23-30 by nsjames805, on Flickr

that shows how far the window needs to be dropped to get at it through the black rubber boot.
Electrical tape sticks to glass and peels off with no residue.
Wrap it over the top of the door frame front and back and stick on a good 3-4 inches to the glass and it will stay put while you disconnect the regulator.

Thank you, nsjames. This is very clear and hugely helpful. I'm not sure if this is the issue with my P2 v70 driver's side window, but I sure am going to investigate this now. More soon.

marathoner65 · Post by **marathoner65** » 06 Apr 2016, 18:11

marathoner65 wrote:
nsjames wrote:http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... ement.html

only i didn't try and get to the slider through that tiny hole.
2016-04-04_08-23-30 by nsjames805, on Flickr

that shows how far the window needs to be dropped to get at it through the black rubber boot.
Electrical tape sticks to glass and peels off with no residue.
Wrap it over the top of the door frame front and back and stick on a good 3-4 inches to the glass and it will stay put while you disconnect the regulator.
Thank you, nsjames. This is very clear and hugely helpful. I'm not sure if this is the issue with my P2 v70 driver's side window, but I sure am going to investigate this now. More soon.

Update: Checked the clips as suggested. Both look good. Motor behaves same erratic way even when disconnected from window. Short bursts of 1 cm every 1/2 sec in each direction. Checking the clips was very easy to do with the info provided above. Thanks again.

New DDM arriving later this week. Will update again when that try is done.