I am going to replace the inner and outer tie rods and boots plus control arms on my car. The tie rods are cheap enough that I will probably buy OEM and not worry about the cost.
I was surprised how expensive the control arms are. Are there any good quality aftermarket control arms that give significant savings? Same question about the tie rod boots. The OEM boot kits are pretty pricey for what you get although they may not be too bad if bought at my local volvo dealer...haven't checked that source yet. I know I could probably reuse the boots if careful but I'd rather go with "ALL new".
98 V70 inner and outer tie rods and boots plus control arms
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kahl
- Posts: 943
- Joined: 27 October 2012
- Year and Model: 2000V70XC
- Location: columbus ohio
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I would go with lemidorfer ( bad spelling ) from FCP. The past several years I was using Mylie but these failed on two of the V70s after 22 and 25K miles. FCP offers that lifetime replacement if they fail. Your idea with new boots make sense with changing the inner tie rods. I used tie wraps to secure the boots.
- theWIFES_S70
- Posts: 1218
- Joined: 24 July 2015
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 base
- Location: Queens, New York
- Has thanked: 61 times
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I installed some Febi's last summer. They're still going strong, 3+k of NYC stop and go driving? Though, the non-rust coating from the factory has rubbed off in a few spots. THe OEM ones I took off don't have a spot of rust on them... I'm saving them in the event I can find some way to press new bushings into them some day...98v70dad wrote:I was surprised how expensive the control arms are. Are there any good quality aftermarket control arms that give significant savings? Same question about the tie rod boots.
Retired:
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K
1998 Volvo S70, N/A, 5-speed, 187K
2007 Volvo S40, 2.4i, 5-speed, 121K
2015 Volvo S60, T5, 85K
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98v70dad
- Posts: 1226
- Joined: 11 March 2011
- Year and Model: 98 V70
- Location: Southeast US
- Has thanked: 1 time
After putting together a list of parts to buy for this project I got a chance to look at a picture of the inner tie rod part. It appears to be just a link with no bearings or joints on it. It seem impossible for this part to wear out and need replacement unless it is bent. Is that correct?
I have some play in/out (maybe 3/16 inch) when grabbing front tires at 3 and 9 o'clock and wiggling. I also get a fair amount of jiggly vibration from the front wheels around 65-70 mph. I had planned to replace the inner tie rods since I was "in the area" doing the outers, but I don't see how an inner tie rod could ever wear out unless subject to a lot of bad roads and potholes. Comments?
I have some play in/out (maybe 3/16 inch) when grabbing front tires at 3 and 9 o'clock and wiggling. I also get a fair amount of jiggly vibration from the front wheels around 65-70 mph. I had planned to replace the inner tie rods since I was "in the area" doing the outers, but I don't see how an inner tie rod could ever wear out unless subject to a lot of bad roads and potholes. Comments?
- sleddriver
- Posts: 975
- Joined: 8 April 2010
- Year and Model: 1998 V70 T5
- Location: Tx
- Has thanked: 11 times
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I went with Lemforders for the LCAs. I found the BJ's MUCH stiffer and smoother than the Meyle HDs. The later easily moved + felt a bit rough when moving + didn't even feel full of grease. Too bad as they "looked" nice. Meyle should upgrade their BJ.
Just did the boots. Went with PPS from AutohausAZ. Made of good rubber and don't feel cheap. Zip ties were included and used but I may go back with metal clamps. The previous boots were badly torn in half and very thin. Like plastic. Not OEM. Came with replacement rack from Mavel.
Inner TRs were loose, but with no play (as opposed to tight with no play when new). Noted torn boots on outer TRs, so these will be replaced soon with Meyle HD when the order arrives.
Just did the boots. Went with PPS from AutohausAZ. Made of good rubber and don't feel cheap. Zip ties were included and used but I may go back with metal clamps. The previous boots were badly torn in half and very thin. Like plastic. Not OEM. Came with replacement rack from Mavel.
Inner TRs were loose, but with no play (as opposed to tight with no play when new). Noted torn boots on outer TRs, so these will be replaced soon with Meyle HD when the order arrives.
1998 V70 T5 226,808 miles. Original Owner.
M1 10W-30 HM
M1 10W-30 HM
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98v70dad
- Posts: 1226
- Joined: 11 March 2011
- Year and Model: 98 V70
- Location: Southeast US
- Has thanked: 1 time
How do inner TR's loosen up? Its just a threaded rod on both ends or that's what the photo looks like. When I wiggle my wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock I get some play but I can't tell where its coming from. It seems like its inside the boot, but now that I know what the part looks like it doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me.sleddriver wrote: Inner TRs were loose, but with no play (as opposed to tight with no play when new). Noted torn boots on outer TRs, so these will be replaced soon with Meyle HD when the order arrives.
Thanks for the alternate boot manufacturer. Many of the lower priced boots I've found don't get good reviews for either fit or sturdiness of material. The Volvo OEM boots are expensive for what they are, but they do get a good bit of abuse. I just want to know some good options before I buy something.
- sleddriver
- Posts: 975
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- Year and Model: 1998 V70 T5
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There is a ball joint on the ITR. Not sure what the connection to it and the rack looks like, as I didn't undo it. The BJ easily swiveled around, but I detected no play. Now it may mean that the ITR BJ is "worn out" if it easily swivels, even though there is no play. This was my first time to remove any of the steering linkage parts. My indy has been out so haven't had time to ask him.
1998 V70 T5 226,808 miles. Original Owner.
M1 10W-30 HM
M1 10W-30 HM
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98v70dad
- Posts: 1226
- Joined: 11 March 2011
- Year and Model: 98 V70
- Location: Southeast US
- Has thanked: 1 time
My V70 is my daily driver and the quickest I can get a part I didn't plan on needing is 2 or three days from the local dealership. So, I decide in advance which parts to replace based on comments I get here. Sometime I end up replacing parts that didn't need to be replaced. Its still way cheaper than paying someone else.kahl wrote:The test I use on inner tie rod is if it doesn't stay straight out on its own I replace the inner tie rod. These things are so easy to R and R.
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