A walk through the multiple rust points of your S60/V70

[oragex]

owing pictures have been done with the exhaust system and heat shields removed from the car.

The missing elements from this picture list are all the exhaust hangers (including the cat converter ones - badly rusted) and flange bolts, the badly rusted thin power steering lines that go underneath the power steering rack and are hard to access (spray) without removing the converter (these lines are known the break because of rust).

In order of apparition
- inside the trunk left rear corner sprayed (only picture from inside the car)
- same as above but from outside, the hole is secured with a rubber cap
- same hole on the other side of the car
- sides of frame near the first muffler sprayed (rust on spot welding caused by heat)
- these two brake cables connector about the center of the car were badly corroded
- of course the rear torsion bar
- right fuel tank rear braket to the frame, light corrosion
- center longitudinal structural members (both sides) near the exhaust line began to rust because of exhaust hanger bolts
- quite bad corrosion at the rear main transverse frame member, goes all the length and hard access to spray, picture from the left side with muffler removed, moderately bad rust on this structural part
- under spare tire metal rusted
- badly rusted (but not deep) exterior side of the rear crush structural member caused by the three tiny screws who secure the wheel well plastic cover
- the above surface prep
- last two pictures under the car shoot from the muffler place, showing a few of the rusted places described here above, now sprayed
- finally a badly rusted (sprayed) transmission to radiator lower line connection. Compare with the green clip from the disconnected upper line: note how the clip on the lower line is not almost compressed by the bulging rust.

[oragex]

Additional points to inspect:

1. important rust on the chassis where the rear subframe mount (in front of the rear wheel) is attached

2. chassis surface rust near the sides of the car, near each side of the gas tank

3. chassis rust under the strut mounting place. cleaned and resprayed in the picture. This rust is only visible with strut assembly removed from the car. metal top strut plate in direct contact with the chassis causes damage to paint.

[Dzy]

Thank you for extensive pictures! I hope never to see such rust on my Volvo. I have sprayed it with Krown last year after i bought it and it holds rather well except areas which get direct hit from road salt and water. I will continue to spray my and father`s Volvo with Krown to prevent the rust from eating the car prematurely. While looking for a "new" used car and inspecting various makes and models I got the feeling that Volvo has the best rustproofness among all.

[vtl]

Not bad. Contrary, 2016 Ford Escape XC60 with 3000 miles:







Many more small rust spots on the subframe, tie rod ends, plates and different mounts.

Piece of cr.p.

[vtl]

Tell me why I started to always hit "reply with quote" instead of "edit"...

[oragex]

I do same with the reply button

As for the XC60 I'm in utter shock. The metal quality is gone. Doesn't directly mean parts quality is poorer, but indirectly it means Volvo doesn't put high quality parts any long in their 2011+ cars

[vtl]

Body quality is still there - I see no rusty XC60s around (and Boston suburbs are crowded with XC60s). It's just subframe, control arms, mounts, tie rods. Everything, what a good, dealership-loyal customer is not supposed to see. Hopefully, Chinese masters don't mind Volvo to treat underchassis parts with acid again on new models instead of painting them, like Ford do. Also it seems that from longevity point of view XC60 is more reliable than our P2 wagons.

More important to me, my B5254T2 w/ 208HP and 320 Nm feels more robust than her B5254T12 w/ 250HP and 360 Nm Waaaay more robust.