2000 V70 AWD no start when hot, P0422 and P0014

ola · Post by **ola** » 21 Jun 2016, 03:19

Hi all

This is my first post here, I hope my English is understandable.

I drive a 2000 V70 2,4 Turbo AWD Wagon. I got it three years ago and now it has gone more than 300 000 kilometers.

During my ownership I spent a lot of money on it and had many parts changed. The timing belt, the fuel pump, the radiator, the exhaust, the turbo and lots more. I am no mechanic, so this was all done at a shop. Now there is a new problem, and I wonder if it is worth the money to get it fixed again by the rather expensive mechanic.

The problem:
For a long time, the car has been using excessive amounts of fuel. The other day, after a short drive, it would not start again. I got it running using start gas, and got it home. Next day i started just fine, but same thing happened. It will start when completely cold, but not after just a short drive.

Also, at the same time, it began to reek of gasoline. Not a safe feeling.

I borrowed an OBD scanner and read: P0422 and P0014

Solenoid valve faulty maybe? any suggestions?

Thanks
ola

Post by **sanfelice** » 21 Jun 2016, 08:40

I had similar symptoms, and replaced both O2 sensors. The problem returned. It was only solved after replacing the MAF with a new unit.

My code was the same, if I recall correctly.

ola · Post by **ola** » 23 Jun 2016, 07:18

No luck so far.

I have taken the solenoid valve out and cleaned it a bit. It was really dirty with lots of what looked like oil pouring out.
The seal worn also, so i replaced it with a seal I cut to shape myself. I didn't have the patience to wait for a new one.

I checked the valve with the battery, and it clicks.

Put everything back, car fires up but dies almost instantly. The same codes turn up as before.

So, I guess I should try the ETM /MAF lead.

Thanks
ola

Sommerfeldt · Post by **Sommerfeldt** » 25 Jun 2016, 12:28

Let me know if you need help or if something's a two-man job. I'm up by Grorud.

- S

ola · Post by **ola** » 01 Jul 2016, 03:50

Update

I almost gave up this car, but I wanted to try to do one last thing, clean the MAF sensor. I bought a set of security torx bits and, since I could not find any MAF cleaning spray here in Oslo, I purchased a can with electronics cleaner fluid. After researching, a MAF cleaning spray seemed to be pretty close to a general electronics cleaning spray, The stuff nerds clean their computers with.

I started by removing dust, sand and leaves from the bottom of the air filter box. The filter itself seemed ok.

To locate the sensor was easy enough, but to get it out was hard. Firstly, I could not manage to pull out the plug with the wires. Afraid to break something, I just let it stay on and started with the two torx screws.

And, the f*** security torx bits did not fit. At first I thought that the screws had corroded, but then I saw that it is another type of security torx, with a different shape to it, but very similar at first glance. I sent some very unfriendly thoughts to the Volvo engineers. I had no idea where to get this super special high security bit, so I went for it with pliers. My leatherman proved to be the best for the job.

Some minutes later I finally got the thing out, sprayed the metal string in there a couple of times, wires still connected, and put it back in. I let the car just sit for a few days, without much hope.

But then yesterday, I needed a tool I left in the car, and since I was there, turned the key. Voila, the car has risen from the dead!

Now it runs fine. The idle fluctuate a little bit, starts out at ca 890 before settling at ca 950 rpm. But all in all i runs better than before the two puffs of spray. I almost can't believe it.

The gasoline smell is gone and the turbo kicks in like it should.

However, the cruise control still doesn't work. Any thoughts on that?

A big thanks to this site and the people here! I was actually planning to buy another car, but now I will stick with this one a bit longer.

Sommerfeldt · Post by **Sommerfeldt** » 01 Jul 2016, 05:01

ola wrote:Update

...since I could not find any MAF cleaning spray here in Oslo, I purchased a can with electronics cleaner fluid...

It's the exact same thing. And Torshov Bil has MAF-cleaner.

ola wrote:To locate the sensor was easy enough, but to get it out was hard. Firstly, I could not manage to pull out the plug with the wires. Afraid to break something, I just let it stay on and started with the two torx screws.

Taking out the entire assembly is much easier, and spray it from the back, where it's open. Those security torx screws are only used one place, and that's on the MAF. No one seem to know why - not even the techs up at Økern.

ola wrote:The idle fluctuate a little bit, starts out at ca 890 before settling at ca 950 rpm. But all in all i runs better than before the two puffs of spray. I almost can't believe it.

However, the cruise control still doesn't work. Any thoughts on that?

It sounds like you might have an air/vacuum leak somewhere, and together with a messed up MAF gave you big trouble. Have you checked your hoses lately?
The CC trouble might be a failed pump, if there is one of those on yours. Check and clear fault codes from your ECU - the CC can be disabled by some trouble codes.

- S

Post by **abscate** » 01 Jul 2016, 05:29

Most of the ECU codes on the 1999+ models with electronic throttle disable the cruise control.

You can clear with a reader, or you can disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes.

Its best to remove the MAF to clean it in the housing, especially if you have leaves in your air filter

To remove the plug,just pry up the end nearest the MAF slightly with a screwdriver tip - I have trouble removing my connector with the squeeze end near the wire too.

ola · Post by **ola** » 07 Jul 2016, 09:50

Problems still there..

I cleared the codes and enjoyed a few days of trouble free driving. Since I have only driven in city traffic, I haven't got a chance to check the cruise control. But then, the same large problem came back, Engine won't start when warm. Or start, and die right away. I get it going with start gas.

I cleaned the MAF sensor again, this time the right way following your advices, and this time I did a good thorough cleaning.

The car got better again, but then problems started to reappear after another two days of problem free driving. I have kept an keen eye on the RPM, and it seems to be stable and ok, at about 900 on idle. Is that the correct idle? No hissing sounds either, but I haven't checked for any vacuum leaks.

So, I googled about checking the MAF sensor and came across this video.

I followed the instructions and got some strange results on the signal cables. about 3,3 Volts on idle and then a decrease down to 2,6 Volts at about 2500 RPM. No sudden drops but steady down and back up again at idle.

This is the opposite of the readings described in the video, voltage decreases instead of increase with RPM, but I guess the engineers just made the sensor differently? Or is this sensor completely off? Or did I do something wrong?

Strange thing, codes never came back. If there is a problem with the ETB, there should be some codes right? No codes what so ever.

Need help... I can drive to Grorud, if you can help Sommerfeldt.

thanks

Sommerfeldt · Post by **Sommerfeldt** » 07 Jul 2016, 11:21

Yeah, dude. Send me a PM.

Though it sounds like your MAF is indeed the problem - you should see a smooth increase, not a decrease. Mine has the older, square connector, so I don't think we can swap them, but have you tried disconnecting it when the problem appears? I.e. warm car won't start, disconnect, try starting again?

- S